Newbie here with a question.
Revolver was purchased used (15-2, Monson build, .357, 6in. bbl) with an unknown round count in the mid 1980s. I shot it a few times and then left in storage until very recently.
Reading these forums got me curious about the insides of this revolver. Considering it's age I thought it would be appropriate to have a look.
I removed the side plate (never could have done this without help from this forum. Tapping the grip tang?? Really??)
Most of it looked pretty good to my untrained eyes. Bone dry, but pretty clean and no rust.
I was surprised at the amount of wear between the hand and the side plate though. It's deep enough to catch a fingernail dragged across the gouges and the hand is pretty shiny.
My question; I'm not interested in a trigger job right now, but will the gun last longer (i.e. wear less) if I polish the inside of the side plate or would it be better to just let things wear naturally?? I'm very happy with the way it shoots.
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
I dont have a lot of experience, but I'd say your pistol has been shot a bit and is kind of 'self polished' inside. Since you are happy with the pistol already, I would clean thoroughly, polish lightly, mainly anything sharp or jagged sticking up, and oil lightly. The bluing on the outside can be polished up with Flitz polish, just go easy so as not to polish thru the bluing. It will shine it up nice and remove light rust etc.Just my 2 cents.
And welcome to the forum! Let us know how it shoots after you get it back together.
-Lonwolf
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
Lot's of the sideplates look rough like that. I'd say that one has gotten the best kind of "tuning" you can easily get, it's been "shot in". If it's in good functioning condition and shoots well, clean it, lube it, and shoot it.
Someday when you're feeling frisky, you might tear it down, polish and tune it, and it will be better, but not by a huge margin.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
January 22, 2008
I use a light grease for sliding parts (like the slide on a 1911 pistol) and a light oil for rotating parts. However, for the lockwork of a revolver I would use only a light oil. As for what brand of oil, there has been many discussions about this for many years now. I think about any oil that provides corrosion protection and doesn't dry out should be sufficient. There are lots of exotic sounding stuff on the market and some of it can get rather expensive. However, if you can get past the smell, ATF (automatic transmission fluid) is one of the best lubricants available.
-Wayne
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
Blacktop said:
we gonna stir that pot again
-Blacktop
Yeah, let's kick off a new Oil/Grease/Lube topic, please, rather than extend a sideplate wear/polishing discussion, PLEASE?
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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December 4, 2011
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Dans Club
March 27, 2009
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May 2, 2009
Just a brief update. After a lube job the trigger pulls like warm butter. It's a little spooky. On my third cylinder full I'd shot three rounds before I realized I was shooting with double action.
Shooter's Choice "high-tech" grease and Tri-Flow "Superior Lubricant".
Thank you all for all the info. and opinions.
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