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Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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This is kind of a splinter from another thread.
Recently, I bought locally what I thought was a Model 8-2 38S. When I got it home, I saw that the cylinder accepted 357 cartridges. Okay. It's a 14-2 with a 38 Special shroud. No big deal.
I take off the 38 B/A, and try to install a 15-2 B/A......(yes I know with a 15-2 B/A it shoots low) I had a lot a difficulty trying the thread the 15-2 barrel as if it were too large for the frame. Tried another barrel and it threaded fine. Okay let's go shoot it.
At the range, after 90 rounds of hardcast reloads over a 2 hour time frame, the gun starts binding. I still have my barrel gap. With difficulty, I eject the cylinder and it spins freely. SA/DA works fine with cylinder ejected. No cracks in the frame. I put in back in and it still binds, but more so on only 4 of 6 turns.
If I had to take a guess, the cylinder bushing might be the cause?
The barrel is now seized in the frame. Wrapped in rubber strap and use pliers to no avail. Soaking it Kroil now.
Next diagnostic steps? Solutions?
Thanks
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Broken dedent ball spring?
October 17, 2017
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Check for debris under the ejector star. A small brush, or compressed air both work well.
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Moderators
January 24, 2009
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Also check to make sure your ejector rod is still tight, and has not unscrewed itself from the cylinder & ejector star.
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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It
Charger Fan said
Also check to make sure your ejector rod is still tight, and has not unscrewed itself from the cylinder & ejector star.
It was loose but tightening did not solve the issues
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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Okay back to the barrel....not the shroud:
I hand threaded it in. Shot the 90 rounds, Was and still is seized up. I got about 4 turns loose with pliers and the barrel wrapped in rubber strap.
Is there a variation in the thread pitch betweem a 15-2, 14-2, and an 8-2?
October 17, 2017
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To my knowledge there is no differenced in actual thread pitch, but there seems to be minimal differences between different eras at DW. I have experienced very tight fitting threads, and very loose fitting ones. Interesting that you were able to hand thread this barrel into the frame, and it only got tighter after you fired 90 rounds. Once you get the barrel out you can check for damaged threads on barrel and frame. Someone on the forum might be able to advise you on the exact tap and die size to attempt repair.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I always use Flitz and a brass bristle brush on the threads of a newly acquired Dan. It may be corrosion you cannot even see. The thread should be all the same. There are differences in how long the threaded sections are on different eras but that shouldn't matter. When cleaning a newly acquired Dan I clean the threads and screw it in as far as possible and then back it out to the proper gap. Also clean the threads on the frame the same way. Good luck getting the barrel out. Soaking the gun, minus the grip, in Dextron ATF may loosen the barrel.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Put it in the freezer compartment of your fridge for a few hours.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Tru Dat. The barrel will contract more than the frame. That is how frame pins are installed in the finest guns, except for Dan Wesson and Colt. Smith, Manurhin, Korth and others freeze the frame pins and heat the frame. Insert the pin and when both come to room temperature they are solidly locked in place. If you ever have a small frame Dan that just won't work right no matter what you do make sure the frame pins are fully seated. Strange things happen if not. A light tap with a rubber or wood hammer and it is seated again.
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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Kroil had little/no effect. Put ice pack on barrel. It turned it only about 1/2 way out b4 stopping. Threads I can see appear fine..
Do the make aerosol cans of instafreeze?
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Publix supermarkets sell dry ice. Chipped dry ice with some down the barrel should really work good. No mess to clean up either. Wear gloves though.
November 14, 2019
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Scout728 said
Kroil had little/no effect. Put ice pack on barrel. It turned it only about 1/2 way out b4 stopping. Threads I can see appear fine..Do the make aerosol cans of instafreeze?
Wart remover. I never used it, so I don't know if you will be able to apply it where you need it, but it sprays some COLD gas that should instafreeze whatever it contacts.
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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After freezing it twice, I got the barrel out. Threads look good on both the barrel and the frame. It appears that the threads in the frame were quite dirty. Cleaned them out with a brush and a drill. Barrel that just came out would not got in as easily as it did the first time. First time was hand-threaded in.
Two theories:
a) the CLP on the frame/barrel "cooked" after I fired 90 rounds through it?
OR
b) the barrel cone flared outward, as there are thread marks to the end? No visible cracks or damage to the barrel cone. But, I may not know what to look for?
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
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Moderators
January 24, 2009
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I vote for A too. I haven't tried "cooking" CLP yet, but it wouldn't surprise me if it tried to turn itself into thread locker, other lubes can do that at times in automotive uses.
May 6, 2024
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My experience has been, that if corrosion is a Concern, LocTite blue thread locker is a Protectant, as well as a method to secure against loosening.. Actually protects threads from Corrosion..Certainly works when steel threaded into aluminum, and does Not require over-tightening. I have Not put anything on DW Barrel threads. Wiped clean and dry, and assembled. Never a Problem!
Dans Club
December 7, 2020
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Final analysis:
The barrel is bulged at the cone about 1/2" from end.
Freezing was the best method for removal and not cracking the frame. Thanks to those that suggested it.
Cone-end of barrel would not go back into shroud.
Two other barrels threaded easily by hand.
I need a new 8" 15-2 barrel.
Already have a call into Genny.
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