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Source for crane lock
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Chuck in Indiana
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May 23, 2014 - 11:13 am
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Well, duh! I've been having light primer strikes double action and thought I'd try a new hammer spring. One showed up in the mail yesterday. "this won't take but a minute..I won't even bother to take the cylinder off, just pull the trigger assembly and change out the spring." As I was putting it together, I saw the cylinder move forward and realized that the crane lock had fallen out. embarassedI keep a pretty clean shop and spent more time than I'd care to admit to on my hands and knees with a chip brush looking in nooks and crannies.

No luck. It has disappeared into a parallel dimension. big-grinmad

So... I thought, "No problem, I'll get one off the net." Haven't found one. Made one by wrapping some .062" copper coated welding rod around a .250 mandrel, and it works fine, but still I'd like to have the real deal, especially if it is hardened, as I suspect.

So, where do I find one?

TIA

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mister callan
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May 23, 2014 - 11:29 am
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Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

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Chuck in Indiana
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May 23, 2014 - 11:48 am
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mister callan said
Maybe try CZ? They are the DW source now.

Items containing the words 'crane lock'
No products found
 
I'll keep trying..
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shotgunboss
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May 23, 2014 - 1:42 pm
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you didnt say what model you have, gunpartscorp.com (numrich) has one for the 44, sold out for the model 15 hope that helps

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lonwolf93
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May 23, 2014 - 2:31 pm
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I would try contacting the people at Norwich directly. The contact info is under FAQ's in the header. Shipping might cost more than the part.

"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"

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Chuck in Indiana
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May 23, 2014 - 6:36 pm
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"Never mind." lol2 I found it. Move along, nothing to see here.. I'll watch that "gotcha" in the future. winkAs an aside, the stronger hammer spring didn't do it. It's just not going to fire these CCI primers reliably..

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Steve
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May 23, 2014 - 7:54 pm
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mister callan said
Maybe try CZ? They are the DW source now.

Never, Ever go to CZ for anything on DW revolvers, they don't really give a crap about supporting DW revolvers.

OTOH, the great people in Norwich will do everything they can to help you out.

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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Maxwell 'Arlen' Silver

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May 23, 2014 - 8:28 pm
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Same thing happened to me and you, I bet, found it the same place I did...

 

in the last place I looked.

Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.

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Bullwolf
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May 23, 2014 - 8:30 pm
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Chuck in Indiana said
As an aside, the stronger hammer spring didn't do it. It's just not going to fire these CCI primers reliably..

Congratulations on finding the crane lock. Best tip I got regarding firearm dis-assembly was to take a gun apart inside a plastic bag to prevent losing small parts. I can think of more than a few times when I strongly wished I had done just that.

 

I almost hate to mention this since it brings another persons reloading practices under scrutiny, but if you have tried everything else and the CCI primers aren't out of spec (like CCI military white box primers) are you sure that you're seating the primers completely flush in the pockets?

I'm sure you have checked this out already with the problems you are having, but it's still easy to overlook if you hand prime tight brass with hard to seat primers.

Might be worth it to seat some manually rather than hand priming to be sure they are seated completely into the pocket, or even a tad deeper. I know if they are proud they can drag, but if the primers are not seated just a thousandth or so below the pocket sometimes this problem will pop up.

I would compare some factory ammo with your hand loads, and if the factory stuff fires, then maybe you are just dealing with a bad batch of CCI primers - or perhaps the primers that aren't seated all the way or deep enough. If you have a different box or lot of CCI primers you could give them a try as well to help narrow things down before you resign yourself to using only Federal primers entirely in this Dan.

Lately it seems like components have been flying off the shelves at a frantic pace, so a tiny bit of quality control slippage in the primer department would not really surprise me.

I like to think of myself as an experienced hand loader, but even I have made this mistake before (not seated primers deep enough) especially when using hard primers like Wolf or Tula. I have also had occasional problems using the above brands of primers in Smith revolvers with a trigger job.

If you don't spot a primer that is not seated deeply enough, the first hammer tends to seat the primer the rest of the way for you, and then it fires on the second or third hit.

In case all of the above does not apply, is there any chance something is rubbing internally and robbing your hammer of inertia? You cold try using some dye chem or other marking solution (even a sharpie) to see if everything is slipping and sliding as it should be in the hammer/firing pin/mainspring/transfer bar area.

As a last ditch effort, if you cant track it down you could always send it to Dan Wesson Norwich and have them take a look at it for you.

I really hope you get it worked out, as I know how frustrating something like this can be.

 

- Bullwolf

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Chuck in Indiana
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May 23, 2014 - 9:02 pm
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Bullwolf said

Chuck in Indiana said
As an aside, the stronger hammer spring didn't do it. It's just not going to fire these CCI primers reliably..

Congratulations on finding the crane lock. Best tip I got regarding firearm dis-assembly was to take a gun apart inside a plastic bag to prevent losing small parts. I can think of more than a few times when I strongly wished I had done just that.

 

I almost hate to mention this since it brings another persons reloading practices under scrutiny, but if you have tried everything else and the CCI primers aren't out of spec (like CCI military white box primers) are you sure that you're seating the primers completely flush in the pockets?

I'm sure you have checked this out already with the problems you are having, but it's still easy to overlook if you hand prime tight brass with hard to seat primers.

Might be worth it to seat some manually rather than hand priming to be sure they are seated completely into the pocket, or even a tad deeper. I know if they are proud they can drag, but if the primers are not seated just a thousandth or so below the pocket sometimes this problem will pop up.

I would compare some factory ammo with your hand loads, and if the factory stuff fires, then maybe you are just dealing with a bad batch of CCI primers - or perhaps the primers that aren't seated all the way or deep enough. If you have a different box or lot of CCI primers you could give them a try as well to help narrow things down before you resign yourself to using only Federal primers entirely in this Dan.

Lately it seems like components have been flying off the shelves at a frantic pace, so a tiny bit of quality control slippage in the primer department would not really surprise me.

I like to think of myself as an experienced hand loader, but even I have made this mistake before (not seated primers deep enough) especially when using hard primers like Wolf or Tula. I have also had occasional problems using the above brands of primers in Smith revolvers with a trigger job.

If you don't spot a primer that is not seated deeply enough, the first hammer tends to seat the primer the rest of the way for you, and then it fires on the second or third hit.

In case all of the above does not apply, is there any chance something is rubbing internally and robbing your hammer of inertia? You cold try using some dye chem or other marking solution (even a sharpie) to see if everything is slipping and sliding as it should be in the hammer/firing pin/mainspring/transfer bar area.

As a last ditch effort, if you cant track it down you could always send it to Dan Wesson Norwich and have them take a look at it for you.

I really hope you get it worked out, as I know how frustrating something like this can be.

 

- Bullwolf

Thanks for that. These are *old* primers. "How could they be, I bought them new in the uh...early 80s.?" big-grin But.. I've *never* had a mis fire in my model 36, 469, Virginian Dragoon 44 mag, or Ruger 44 mag carbine reloads with them. I lightly stoned the areas that I could see were rubbing, but haven't polished anything, yet. Frustrated? wink A little, but I enjoy fooling with mechanical things. That's what I do. The simplicity of the DWs are what attracted me to them. (Besides being drop dead gorgeous) Anyone can design a complicated machine. It takes genius to design a simple one...

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mister callan
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May 24, 2014 - 8:59 am
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"It's just not going to fire these CCI primers reliably.."

That exactly parallels my experience. CCI & DW double action just do not go well together. Switching to Win primers was the 100% cure for the problem. I tried the grip, grip screw, hammer & new springs but the Magnum CCI primer was the problem.mad

Matthew Quigley on handguns:

“I said I never had much use for one. Never said

I didn't know how to use it.”

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Chuck in Indiana
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May 24, 2014 - 10:21 am
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These are just regular small pistol primers, FWIW. I'll probably not lose too much sleep over it, but I just bought a box of 500 new CCIs. Haven't even opened it.. still using up my old stock. Maybe I can trade a dealer for some different ones at the next gun show. <shrug>

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