April 28, 2014
Well, duh! I've been having light primer strikes double action and thought I'd try a new hammer spring. One showed up in the mail yesterday. "this won't take but a minute..I won't even bother to take the cylinder off, just pull the trigger assembly and change out the spring." As I was putting it together, I saw the cylinder move forward and realized that the crane lock had fallen out. I keep a pretty clean shop and spent more time than I'd care to admit to on my hands and knees with a chip brush looking in nooks and crannies.
No luck. It has disappeared into a parallel dimension.
So... I thought, "No problem, I'll get one off the net." Haven't found one. Made one by wrapping some .062" copper coated welding rod around a .250 mandrel, and it works fine, but still I'd like to have the real deal, especially if it is hardened, as I suspect.
So, where do I find one?
TIA
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
mister callan said
Maybe try CZ? They are the DW source now.
Never, Ever go to CZ for anything on DW revolvers, they don't really give a crap about supporting DW revolvers.
OTOH, the great people in Norwich will do everything they can to help you out.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
February 29, 2012
Chuck in Indiana said
As an aside, the stronger hammer spring didn't do it. It's just not going to fire these CCI primers reliably..
Congratulations on finding the crane lock. Best tip I got regarding firearm dis-assembly was to take a gun apart inside a plastic bag to prevent losing small parts. I can think of more than a few times when I strongly wished I had done just that.
I almost hate to mention this since it brings another persons reloading practices under scrutiny, but if you have tried everything else and the CCI primers aren't out of spec (like CCI military white box primers) are you sure that you're seating the primers completely flush in the pockets?
I'm sure you have checked this out already with the problems you are having, but it's still easy to overlook if you hand prime tight brass with hard to seat primers.
Might be worth it to seat some manually rather than hand priming to be sure they are seated completely into the pocket, or even a tad deeper. I know if they are proud they can drag, but if the primers are not seated just a thousandth or so below the pocket sometimes this problem will pop up.
I would compare some factory ammo with your hand loads, and if the factory stuff fires, then maybe you are just dealing with a bad batch of CCI primers - or perhaps the primers that aren't seated all the way or deep enough. If you have a different box or lot of CCI primers you could give them a try as well to help narrow things down before you resign yourself to using only Federal primers entirely in this Dan.
Lately it seems like components have been flying off the shelves at a frantic pace, so a tiny bit of quality control slippage in the primer department would not really surprise me.
I like to think of myself as an experienced hand loader, but even I have made this mistake before (not seated primers deep enough) especially when using hard primers like Wolf or Tula. I have also had occasional problems using the above brands of primers in Smith revolvers with a trigger job.
If you don't spot a primer that is not seated deeply enough, the first hammer tends to seat the primer the rest of the way for you, and then it fires on the second or third hit.
In case all of the above does not apply, is there any chance something is rubbing internally and robbing your hammer of inertia? You cold try using some dye chem or other marking solution (even a sharpie) to see if everything is slipping and sliding as it should be in the hammer/firing pin/mainspring/transfer bar area.
As a last ditch effort, if you cant track it down you could always send it to Dan Wesson Norwich and have them take a look at it for you.
I really hope you get it worked out, as I know how frustrating something like this can be.
- Bullwolf
April 28, 2014
Bullwolf said
Chuck in Indiana said
As an aside, the stronger hammer spring didn't do it. It's just not going to fire these CCI primers reliably..Congratulations on finding the crane lock. Best tip I got regarding firearm dis-assembly was to take a gun apart inside a plastic bag to prevent losing small parts. I can think of more than a few times when I strongly wished I had done just that.
I almost hate to mention this since it brings another persons reloading practices under scrutiny, but if you have tried everything else and the CCI primers aren't out of spec (like CCI military white box primers) are you sure that you're seating the primers completely flush in the pockets?
I'm sure you have checked this out already with the problems you are having, but it's still easy to overlook if you hand prime tight brass with hard to seat primers.
Might be worth it to seat some manually rather than hand priming to be sure they are seated completely into the pocket, or even a tad deeper. I know if they are proud they can drag, but if the primers are not seated just a thousandth or so below the pocket sometimes this problem will pop up.
I would compare some factory ammo with your hand loads, and if the factory stuff fires, then maybe you are just dealing with a bad batch of CCI primers - or perhaps the primers that aren't seated all the way or deep enough. If you have a different box or lot of CCI primers you could give them a try as well to help narrow things down before you resign yourself to using only Federal primers entirely in this Dan.
Lately it seems like components have been flying off the shelves at a frantic pace, so a tiny bit of quality control slippage in the primer department would not really surprise me.
I like to think of myself as an experienced hand loader, but even I have made this mistake before (not seated primers deep enough) especially when using hard primers like Wolf or Tula. I have also had occasional problems using the above brands of primers in Smith revolvers with a trigger job.
If you don't spot a primer that is not seated deeply enough, the first hammer tends to seat the primer the rest of the way for you, and then it fires on the second or third hit.
In case all of the above does not apply, is there any chance something is rubbing internally and robbing your hammer of inertia? You cold try using some dye chem or other marking solution (even a sharpie) to see if everything is slipping and sliding as it should be in the hammer/firing pin/mainspring/transfer bar area.
As a last ditch effort, if you cant track it down you could always send it to Dan Wesson Norwich and have them take a look at it for you.
I really hope you get it worked out, as I know how frustrating something like this can be.
- Bullwolf
Thanks for that. These are *old* primers. "How could they be, I bought them new in the uh...early 80s.?" But.. I've *never* had a mis fire in my model 36, 469, Virginian Dragoon 44 mag, or Ruger 44 mag carbine reloads with them. I lightly stoned the areas that I could see were rubbing, but haven't polished anything, yet. Frustrated? A little, but I enjoy fooling with mechanical things. That's what I do. The simplicity of the DWs are what attracted me to them. (Besides being drop dead gorgeous) Anyone can design a complicated machine. It takes genius to design a simple one...
February 21, 2011
"It's just not going to fire these CCI primers reliably.."
That exactly parallels my experience. CCI & DW double action just do not go well together. Switching to Win primers was the 100% cure for the problem. I tried the grip, grip screw, hammer & new springs but the Magnum CCI primer was the problem.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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