April 30, 2011
Just picked up a 715 (Monson) I bought at online auction. Had Dans for over 30 years but this is my first stainless weapon of any kind. Externally the gun looks great but on clearing the action at the dealer it felt about like it was full of sand. Got it home and pulled the sideplate and that's not far off - dirtiest gun internally I've ever seen! During the cleaning operation I found that the long sideplate screw does not capture the hammer spring as on my blued guns - is this unique to the stainless designs?? Despite not removing the hammer it is much cleaner now and the action feels smooth as normal.
Next point is that both shrouds are SS but both barrels & nuts are blued. I take it this means I have a mix master and not factory original? Not the end of the world as this is a shooter and not a collector. Headed to the range tomorrow to see if it will go bang.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
Sideplate screw should capture just like your 15-2, and it does sound as though your barrel and nut got mismatched at some point in time.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
Pistolero, The main spring should be captured. Maybe you need a new mainspring strut? Or a side plate screw. Or maybe your not holding your mouth right. Seriously I just today opened a High Standard Mark ii and the same thing happened. A cleaning rod will hold the strut down to remove the hammer. Mine worked again when I cleaned everything. Maybe sand in the threads.
I recently bought what I thought was a NIB 714. Blue barrel and nut. The serial number was for a blue gun made three years before the first stainless. SteveCT suggested hard chrome. Since verified by a very experienced LGS owner. Beautiful gun. Check your # . Should be S/, SD, S, or 357 S before the number.
April 30, 2011
On close inspection this one is definitely made up from parts but I don't care because she really can shoot! One outstanding question: the mainspring housing has a "window" on each side and the mainspring seat shows ~1/4" of male threads below the end of the housing. Is this normal or is the seat backed out? Could this be why the sideplate screw can't reach the mainspring strut? I ask because I can see through the window that the mainspring flexes side to side above the seat and when the hammer is cocked the butt end of the mainspring strut visibly jumps from one coil to the next before it bottoms into the mainspring seat.
Ole Dog, how do you use a cleaning rod to hole the spring compressed?
If you remove the attachments to the rod you are left with the threaded female end.Work that over the hammer end of the strut and you can push it down to remove the hammer. A third hand helps to hold down the spring while you pull hammer. Let up slowly or rhe spring and strut go into orbit. Putting hammer back is easier. I was able to put in side plate screw , then hammer. Don't know about seat but once rhe hammer is out you can deal with that. Good Luck and don'tworry.
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
One outstanding question: the mainspring housing has a "window" on each side and the mainspring seat shows ~1/4" of male threads below the end of the housing. Is this normal or is the seat backed out? Could this be why the sideplate screw can't reach the mainspring strut? I ask because I can see through the window that the mainspring flexes side to side above the seat and when the hammer is cocked the butt end of the mainspring strut visibly jumps from one coil to the next before it bottoms into the mainspring seat.
The main spring seat should be locked in place, either welded or piened or possibly lock-tite. Simple test if it is loose and turns by hand it probably has moved. I do believe it was intended as a factory adjustment so not threaded in all the way may be original. Just check to see if it moves easily and go from there.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
April 30, 2011
Just wanted to close out in case anyone with similar issues finds this thread later....
The 1/2" sideplate screw doesn't capture the mainspring strut on this gun for whatever reason, so I found a 3/4" screw with the same 3-48 threads at the hardware store. This works perfectly and engages the threads with about 1/8" to spare. Not sure what is "special" about this Dan but no complaints about how she shoots.
1 Guest(s)