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May 17, 2010
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So using the technic shown on here ( via LB pointing it out): I bought a smaller threaded bolt with 7/16 heads and a larger bold with 1/2" heads to help remove the stuck barrel on the "beater" (I really should not call it that, it was a VERY nice gun, zero barney smooth action)
Anyway I get home and go to remove the 4" from the SS gun I just got, and again its stuck. So right away I pull out my threaded rods..... and after a few false starts and re-tightening... I manage to twist the head completely off the smaller rod.
Time to bring out the big boy: and the results?
Shroud 2; Pine zero. Now I am going to find a new bolts and make dern sure they are grade 5 hardness.
Any other ideas GREATLY appreciated.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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November 17, 2008
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Wow you sure seem to be having a run of tough luck with stuck barrels here lately. Here are a few thoughts, all untested on my part so proceed with caution. First soak the barrel/shroud or even the whole gun in a thin penetrating oil for a day or so. Heat it up with a hairdryer or some other means. And last a wild thought I had some time back. Place the gun in your freezer for a few hours. Remove it and go straight outside (if you live in the country) and fire 6 hot rounds. This should heat up the barrel quicker than the shroud and MAY take the tension off the barrel nut. It's just a theory though. Good luck and of course be careful.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
August 28, 2009
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As LB pointed out, a hair dryer worked for me on several occasions. Try that or if you have access to a heat gun that would work even better - just remove the front sight first or it will melt the color insert.
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February 22, 2009
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harly said:
" - just remove the front sight first or it will melt the color insert."
Aaannnnnddddd how would someone know that???
If using penetrating oil- I suggest Kroil; nothing better IMO.
Good luck,
Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
May 17, 2010
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I keep hearing about kroil.. never found the stuff here-abouts...
I have one of those tiny butane torches.. I wonder how that would work..maybe I could hit just that barrel nut.. or how about an old soldering iron, I got one of those too...
Hey I removed the sight..it is broken so trashing it anyway. I thought about soaking the entire gun.. but in what? And do I remove all the internals first. I am getting braver with each gun. I nearly always pull the crane these days just to clean it.
Keep it comming guys... I want to see this thing with the 6V on it!
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
May 17, 2010
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I googled Kroil, they have a "google deal" going on now... so its on order.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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February 22, 2009
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I've used the google deal twice; you'll like it- if not, I'll take it off your hands...
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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February 28, 2009
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You could possibly save yourself a bunch of money by using a 50/50 mix of ATF and acetone. Works very well for me on anumber of things.
-Mike
May 17, 2010
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Some days.... I really hate that it is a "wal-mart" world. No I am not a Walmart hater, just I get tired of not being able to buy a quality item because no-one stocks it.. they only stock cheap junk.
So I have decided that I want AT LEAST a grade 5 bolt and a grade 8 would be better. I went to Home depot, yes they have grade 5 but only short ones, same at the Car parts store and same at the local True Value store. So my ONLY hope is to go to the local bolts distributor in the next town. Really, are grade 5 bolts that are 6 inches long that problematic to stock?
PS: the "normal" grade ( like the two I already broke), are grade 2
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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January 24, 2009
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I think "allthread" style bolts are mainly used in low stress situations, so yes, I bet finding a grade 5 or 8 would be tough.
If you do go to a bolt supply place, see if you can get a shouldered stud. That would pretty much look like a straight rod, with maybe an inch of thread on each end. That will be the strongest thing because the shoulder will fex a lot less. Or even a grade 8 bolt like that should do the trick, too.
November 14, 2009
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All thread (threaded rod) comes in all grades. I recently bought ASTM A193 Gr B7 all thread from Fastenal. Here in Connecticut the 3 hardware stores near me now stock Grade 2, 5 & 8, but we don't have a hardware store in town, I have to travel to Colchester or Bozrah. Have you tried heat???
Happyness is a Hot DW and a pile of used brass!!! Rich
February 11, 2010
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Yep I was going to say the the same thing, Fastenal allthread, you even have one
in town.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/storeInfo.ex?branch=MSJA2
5736 W Highway 80
Jackson, MS 39209
P: 601-922-2658
F: 601-923-3015
This stuff is tough, we have double nutted it and used 1000lb air impacts and
Fastenal allthread held up. I wonder if an impact gun might help with these
stuck nuts, sometimes a quick short burst is better than turning something
slow... just a thought.
-Blacktop
May 17, 2010
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Thanks all
I picked up two 3' sections of grade 5 threaded rod plus 6 grade 5 nuts for each. Total cost $10.45. Hoping to figure out how to cut this down into useful chunks ( 4" 6", 8", 12") should work well for 2" , 4", 6" and 8" BA's.
My original plan was to use fully threaded bolts like before just so I could use an electric hammer/drill.
OK waiting on the Kroil.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
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