As I await my 15-2, I'd like to be ready to do a trigger job. On my S&W I usually: lighten hammer spring, lighten rebound spring, polish double action sear, trigger flat, and rebound slide. I might also put an extended nose or firing pin. I do a nice internal cleaning, maybe some frame polishing, and light oil on the action parts.
What is needed for a nice trigger job on a Dan Wesson? I want the double action to be smooth...
thanks!
N
YouTube Channel: Nick Shoots Stuff
Diablo Rod and Gun Club
03-FFL and COE Holder
CMAT GMAU
Muay, Dans are not Smiths. If you do that you will ruin your gun. Smiths were 100 year old designs. Read "The Average Joe Tuneup" in gunsmithing before you do anything. Then read it twice more. And then start reading all the posts in the thread.
Dan Wessons are the modern Revolvers. Most better Revolver makes use many of Dan Wesson's innovations. The Barrel and shroud, are used by all of Smith and Wesson's finest guns. Also Manurhin, Korths, Janz, and others. MIM clockwork enable Dans to be modular and not require the factory or gunsmiths for most repairs. The parts are drop in. S&Ws and Colt's can be filed and fitted. If you do that to the Dan sear it will remove the hardened metal and it will promptly fail. DO NOT CUT SPRINGS if you want the gun to work. Buy Wolff reduced power springs. The 8 lb mainspring is more reliable than the 71/2". IMHO, the Wolff trigger return spring is the single best thing you can do to improve the action. The Average Joe Tuneup will inform you how to smooth the inside frame, sideplate, and lockwork (very lightly so as to not remove the hardened surfaces).
For years Forum members have been telling new owners how to fix their Dans that have been screwed up by treating them like S&Ws. And don't ever bogart a revolver.
Thanks, dude! So basically just the Wolff Shooters PaK (reduced trigger return spring and hammer springs). No polishing needed. I just did some Power Custom mods on a few Smiths today. Everything a bit oversized, just like a 1911.
YouTube Channel: Nick Shoots Stuff
Diablo Rod and Gun Club
03-FFL and COE Holder
CMAT GMAU
The Average Joe Tuneup explains about polishing. Basically, you just remove the roughness on places where you see the trigger, hammer, etc rubbing. The sideplate and frame hold the parts tight. Too smooth and the gun oil actually creates suction instead of lubrication. Only the very outside of the lockwork is hardened. Less depth than color case hardened or tempered parts on Smiths and Colts. Remove that and the soft metal underneath wears very fast.
My most cherished Dan is bedside gun. It is a factory nickel model 14 21/4" barrel. The nickel seems to have slicked up the inside frame and sideplate. The frame is not the matte finish of most fixed sight guns but as smooth as a polished model 15. They also made a matte nickel. With the short hammer fall and Wolff springs it may be the fastest, smoothest trigger of any revolver I have. I have another nickel gun that does not come close but the nickel is not as pristine or maybe the insides were not polished as well before the plating. It is up there with Registered Magnums, an early Python, a well used Manurhin Gendarme gun and a Korth 3" combat. One last shout out. I have an ERMA WERKE ER777 that may be the most amazing revolver I own. I haven't shot it yet. I may not. I don't know how it can work but there is such a small cylinder gap you cannot see it without microscopic vision.
Ok, so there is polishing to smooth out rough machining?
YouTube Channel: Nick Shoots Stuff
Diablo Rod and Gun Club
03-FFL and COE Holder
CMAT GMAU
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