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December 12, 2017
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I bought and old pork chop and have been trying to restore it.
It shoots great but about every 5 or 6th round the trigger won't go back. I bought a Wolf replacement spring but I can't get it to work at all
I also replaced the other little spring.
I've polished the thing like I saw on another thread.
Anybody know what I'm doing wrong?
Sure would appreciate some help on how to adjust that trigger spring
February 16, 2016
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I recall 'Ole Dog' telling me there were some intricacies with installing the older porkie springs, but am not qualified to comment further than that. Hopefully the old codger will come around and offer some insight on your dilemma ...
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I am here. I have been preoccupied with yard work. I will be more attentive, I promise. I am not really sure what may be wrong but the early porkchop triggers did not have the little ledge the trigger return spring rests on. It often would fall off when putting the sideplate back on. Once you get the sideplate on and the spring is still in place it stays there. Early trigger return springs were square wire. It may have been easier to keep on the trigger. The Wolff spring is a slightly different configuration. Keep trying and it will eventually fit right. Make sure the post is fully seated in the frame.
December 12, 2017
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i think I found the problem
The little set screw behind the trigger was screwed all the way in. I think the trigger was camming over. Seems to be working better when I screwed the little screw out a little ways.
December 12, 2017
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I finally got the pistol working.
I put a new wolf spring in. And Shaping and adjusting that spring was a real bear
But it was well worth it. Runs smooth as glass now
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Thanks for the update. For others who may have an issue in the future, what did you have to do to the spring (assuming trigger spring)?
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
December 12, 2017
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I had to bend the long side of the spring so it wouldn't come off the little ledge when the trigger returns. The I bent the end of the spring so it was contoured to the ledge.
Polished the contact points to a mirror shine
August 20, 2019
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I had a DA trigger problem similar to yours with a 15-2 I bought last year. I tried a new trigger and hammer but in DA the hammer would go back and hit a wall and require way too much force to continue travel. I did it with the cylinder open or closed. The previous owner had changed the trigger return spring so I focused on that yesterday. Like you, I bent the end of the spring to change the contour where the spring rode on the ledge on the trigger. After reassembly I tried it and the DA felt like it should but every now and then wouldn't return. It's much better now and I'm still trying to find the sweet spot by tweeking the spring but at least I've definitely isolated the problem.
December 12, 2017
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Such a simple action can really make you want to pull your hair out.
Might make sure your sides aren't rubbing against your hammer when you tighten the screws down
I polished the livin crap out of the insides of the frame too
August 20, 2019
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That's what bothered me the most. It's so simple and so few parts and I couldn't figure it out. I changed the hammer, trigger and mainspring to no avail. In the end, I came back to the advice I got here that it was spring related and focused on the trigger return spring. Just a little difference tweaking the bend in the end of the spring makes a big difference. I thought I was going to wear out the side plate screws, I had it off and on again so may times.
December 12, 2017
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You're preaching to the choir brother !!!
I would put mine together and hold the plate on and the thing would work. Then when I put screws in it would hang up.
Might also check the little post that holds your spring, it might not be quite perpendicular. Mine was a bit off and for the life of me I don't know how it got bent but when I was monkeying with the spring tension and shape.
I used a card with a sharp 90 degree angle to make sure I got the post straight.
August 20, 2019
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That's crazy. That's what was happening the other day. I got tired of taking the screws and side plate on and off and put a death grip on the side plate and tried it. Smooth as butter pull, but when I put the screws in the problem was back. I noticed the hole in the trigger where the frame pin inserts was pretty sloppy so swapped triggers and it worked with screws in. May have had nothing to do with it but it works at the moment. One thing for sure, I'm getting really good at taking it apart and putting it back together.
December 12, 2017
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Keep us posted on how it cycles at the range
I don't know how many times it worked fine at home and when I live fired it the trigger wouldn't return.
But I am going to check my trigger now.
Thanks
December 12, 2017
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I thought i had it cured, but today at the range my trigger would stick after i fired a live round. Empty the gun runs perfect.
I have replaced the trigger return spring 4 times. I was always bending and trying to adjust the spring so it would function.
So today, the trigger kept sticking. I would take it apart adjust the spring then put the cover on and try it.
This is what i found out: When the frame screws were loose trigger worked perfect. When i tighten the screws down the trigger sticks.
I think i have narrowed the problem down to one of two things:
1. The Top plate is rubbing on the little arm that advances the cylinder
2. The little spring that is on the arm that advances the cylinder is rubbing or binding
Anybody ever had one of these issues with the plate or little spring?
August 8, 2016
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bayjoe said
I thought i had it cured, but today at the range my trigger would stick after i fired a live round. Empty the gun runs perfect.I have replaced the trigger return spring 4 times. I was always bending and trying to adjust the spring so it would function.
So today, the trigger kept sticking. I would take it apart adjust the spring then put the cover on and try it.
This is what i found out: When the frame screws were loose trigger worked perfect. When i tighten the screws down the trigger sticks.
I think i have narrowed the problem down to one of two things:
1. The Top plate is rubbing on the little arm that advances the cylinder
2. The little spring that is on the arm that advances the cylinder is rubbing or binding
Anybody ever had one of these issues with the plate or little spring?
I haven’t run into this before. I recommend emailing Bob at Dan Wesson as he’s their lead revolversmith. Guy is a wizard and is great at responding to emails.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I am so happy to hear that I was not imagining the trigger return spring issue with the ledge on the trigger. I have quite a few Dans. I used to clean, polish and tweak every one I got. I don't do that anymore. If it is going to be a shooter I will but now I just clean and wax them. I learned about these issues on a model 12. There is no extra ledge on the trigger for the return spring. It is a pain to put the sideplate back without knocking the return spring off the trigger. Plus, the early hand spring wrapped around the hand and rubbed on the sideplate leading to failure. At serial number 10, 000 or so they improved the hand with a slot that the hand spring fit into. Around serial number 25, 000 the little ledge was incorporated into the trigger to rest the trigger return spring on. That also made the hammer fall little longer. That is one difference between a 15 and a 15-1.
Concerning the sideplate screws, tight is good, overtight is not. The problem could be the frame pins not seated. It is a good idea to tap them with a wood or plastic hammer to seat them fully..
Dan Wessons are thinking man's guns. The barrel nut, the cylinder gap and making your own repairs easy by using Allen screws can be complicated to the average revolver user. Who would guess that the grip screw would also impede the hammer travel? These are the trade offs that make it possible to use any shape grip, even hand carved and being able to change the barrel length instead of sending it to the factory or your gun disappearing into the black hole of a gunsmith workshop. Not mention that if the barrel gets, shot out you can just screw in a new one.
When most people had problems they threw the gun in the safe or workshop drawer for 30 years. That is why there are so many Dans in lightly used condition I think.
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