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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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OK, if there was ever any doubt if this tune-up is worth it...not anymore 🙂 I had a guy at my house last night shopping for a 357. After pulling the triggers on a few different brands, we started talking trigger pulls--I told him to hold on a sec and I pulled the project 15-2 out of the safe. He handled it for about 30 seconds and said he would take (it wasn't for sale..), but he handed me $425....so it is gone 🙂
SHOOT
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January 24, 2009
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LOL!
Well, that's good...or maybe bad. I guess I'll have to make sure & not let anyone else play with my DW's, if I do trigger jobs on them.
For sure not my .375 SM, that thing has the coolest trigger I've ever felt in a revolver.
January 10, 2010
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Go easy on the polishing of the trigger group parts on your dw's, since they are made from sintered iron, ( a early verision on mim), you don't want to go through the hardening if you do the gun will wear quickly, s&ws are similar in the fact that the are only case hardened.
Does anyone know where to obtain the transferbar/ timing pawl spring, wolf doesn't seem to offer a replacement for them, i hear from one of the bosses at work(one of michigans largest firearms retailers)( a former gunsmith) that that spring is a point of wear.
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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to the 
. Try this link /?page_id=202 and stop by the new members thread and introduce yourself.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
April 28, 2010
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Shoot, This is a very good tutorial. I don't know anybody yet on this forum but it looks like you have done some gunsmithing in your time! Your dead on about hardness of the metal and cold bluing. It's all in the alloys involved and their content. Mainly the "nickel" content. The more the nickel percentage, usually the more difficult for blue to take. I have used these 6 cold blues for quite a few years with very good results. Oxpho-Blue, Dicropan IM, Dicropan T-4, Black Magic (by Kleen Bore), 44-40 and Perma Blue (by Birchwood casey). I have found the "Black Magic" to blue some metals that would not take the others very well. I also generally use the "heat" technique using either a propane torch or hair drier on the high heat setting. As stated by Shoot, some metals just simply have too much alloy to blue at all. Stainless steel afterall, has a high nickel content!.........................Dick
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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The toaster oven is your best friend when it comes to bluing small items ... It is surprising how much a little heat helps the bluing process take hold.
SHOOT
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 9, 2009
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Is the cylinder stop part of the sideplate or a replaceable part?
A man cannot have too many SuperMags
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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Supermagfan said:
Is the cylinder stop part of the sideplate or a replaceable part?
Well, it depends... Some of them are pressed in parts and can be replaced. Others are molded into the sideplate.
SHOOT
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Supermagfan said:
Is the cylinder stop part of the sideplate or a replaceable part?
What I think is the correct answer (and was sort of confirmed by Priscilla at CZ/DW) is that the cylinder stop on a 14/15 series was part of the sideplate. I don't think I've ever seen an original parts diagram that shows it as a separate piece, it simply breaks off on some revolvers, and DW produced a replacement piece as an alternative to buying and fitting a new sideplate. In fact, I just bought one because one that was broken and press fit back into place was finally lost.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
August 6, 2010
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While I would LOVE to do this kind of thing, I have to admit that my cojones just ain't big enough to try to take all of those little pieces out and then try to get them back together again. My hat is off to anyone who can do this.
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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RossA said:
While I would LOVE to do this kind of thing, I have to admit that my cojones just ain't big enough to try to take all of those little pieces out and then try to get them back together again. My hat is off to anyone who can do this.
Believe me it is not as hard as you think. Very few pieces, simple assembly. Go for it .
SHOOT
September 14, 2010
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Can you cock the hammer and pull the trigger (letting the hammer down gently) with the sideplate off?
I'm looking at (this most excellent) post and the picture. My mechanically inclined 6 year old daughter would be THRILLED to see how all the little parts all work together.
I tried this once with a 1911 and, well, I thought I'd ask here before doing it with my new revolver.... 
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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yep, no problem cocking it while the sideplate is off. I'd suggest putting your finger on the hand to keep it in place when you cock it.
SHOOT
May 20, 2010
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1) Install a set of Wolff reduced power springs, especially the trigger return spring. http://www.guns……….prings.com
- I just got a set for my Action cup. (7,5 hammer, and reduced trigger springs).
However the reduced trigger return spring could not return the trigger.
I did not polish the trigger, just oiled it up. Do you think a polish would make a difference?
Its almost unused and did not seem to need polish.
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Action Cup is a pretty different DW, this kit may not be right for it.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
May 20, 2010
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Steve CT said:
Action Cup is a pretty different DW, this kit may not be right for it.
No, I guess the frame is a normal 14-2. (DA only).
The springs was like shown in the first post. So I think the kit should work.
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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No reason it should not return that I know of--make sure the short end of the sping is properly placed behinf the hammer boss (pivot). Everything else is back together properly? Here is the inside of an action cup.
SHOOT
May 20, 2010
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SHOOTIST357 said:
No reason it should not return that I know of–make sure the short end of the sping is properly placed behinf the hammer boss (pivot). Everything else is back together properly? Here is the inside of an action cup.
SHOOT
Strange.
Yes im sure its properly placed, it also workst fine when I put the original spring back.
Tried several times to switch back original/reduced – each time the trigger got stuck with the reduced.
DWF Supporters
June 20, 2010
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Kinda late on seeing this post but I had the exact same "trigger sticking back" when I put Wolff spings in my DW 15-2. I switched back and forth between the Wolff and original springs to see if it was my installing of the springs 
. Nope. Everytime I put back the Wolff springs the trigger stuck. Everytime I put in the original springs the trigger worked well.
I finally realized if I backed out the trigger stop (so the trigger couldn't go back far enough to get stuck 
) the problem was solved. I am not a gunsmith, but the trigger pull works fine and is real sweet now (partly because I polished up some items thinking that was the issue).
Great post Shoot. I think I will dig back into my revolver and give it a complete polish job….
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