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December 13, 2013
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Finally got to take out my new 14-2 to shoot yesterday and it shot HIGH, I mean about 8" at 15 yards. Is this usual for this model? I am thinking of getting one of EWK's Model 15 front sights and seeing what happens. Has anyone tried this, and, if so, what were the results?
Thanks in advance for any input!
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Were you shooting 38s or .357s? If .357 were they 125 or 158 gr? All of that can make a difference, on a fixed sight gun, although 8" is quite a bit. Is it 8" from the point of aim or from the center- also a difference if you use a 6 o'clock hold vs. center mass. Finally, try it with 158 gr factory ammo at 25 yards, if you haven't already.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
December 13, 2013
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I was using Speer 158gr LSWCHP over 5.0gr of Unique in .38 Spl. They grouped well but high. I was aiming for the bullseye on a target printed on standard letter paper, 6 o'clock hold. They were hitting well above the top of the paper. If I aimed below the bottom edge I could get them to hit around the center.
I was also firing a S&W 64, also 4", also fixed sights, same load, and they were shooting right to the POA.
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Dans Club
December 4, 2011
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Have you checked the barrel nut to be sure its snug and not loose? When I've experienced what you describe, I usually remove and reinstall the barrel and shroud and set the B/C gap and make sure the barrel is snugged up in the shroud. That has fixed more than one accuracy problem.
Does the problem occur in both double action and single action?
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December 13, 2013
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SCORPIO said
Have you checked the barrel nut to be sure its snug and not loose? When I've experienced what you describe, I usually remove and reinstall the barrel and shroud and set the B/C gap and make sure the barrel is snugged up in the shroud. That has fixed more than one accuracy problem.
Does the problem occur in both double action and single action?
It does happen both DA and SA. I've ordered a barrel wrench from EWK and will report further when I can make adjustments and shoot again.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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x2 on the barrel nut, then. It definitely doesn't sound like an ammo mismatch.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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June 25, 2013
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The last Dan I picked up was a 14-2 4"BA and it did the same the only time it took it out shooting.
It just dawned on me that I could put a 15-2 4"BA on it and try it again. The 15-2 BA front sight is higher.
I was researching this "Dan shooting high" on the web and came across a forum where a guy said he sanded the shroud and face of the frame to correct this. HUH!? No way!
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
December 13, 2013
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Maxwell Silver said
The last Dan I picked up was a 14-2 4"BA and it did the same the only time it took it out shooting.It just dawned on me that I could put a 15-2 4"BA on it and try it again. The 15-2 BA front sight is higher.
I was researching this "Dan shooting high" on the web and came across a forum where a guy said he sanded the shroud and face of the frame to correct this. HUH!? No way!
Sanding? Methinks not.
I, for one, would be VERY interested to know how this experiment turns out. Please keep us apprised, if you wouldn't mind. This may add to our collective DW wisdom!
December 13, 2013
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Ok, got the wrench today and snugged it up as tight as I could. I can't get the gap any tighter than .008. I see .006 as the standard. Will this extra .002 account for my issue? The barrel nut appears to be permanently attached to the barrel, so it ain't getting any more snug.
Opinions? Or, better yet, cold hard facts?
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June 25, 2013
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Can you remove the barrel nut and the shroud off?
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
December 13, 2013
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Maxwell Silver said
Can you remove the barrel nut and the shroud off?
Sorry if I wasn't clear. The barrel unscrews and comes off, as does the shroud, but the nut does not come off of the barrel, nor will it move in relation to it. I have seen disassembly videos on Youtube in which the barrel and nut are separate, but in this case they appear to be a unit.
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June 25, 2013
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That nut should definitely come off first, then the shroud and finally the barrel.
It sounds as if the nut has setup on the threads of the barrel, a soaking with a penetrating lube sounds appropriate and maybe some heat applied to the nut. Gently work the nut back and forth till it loosens. At worst it could be cross threaded but we don't want to think about that.
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
December 13, 2013
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Ok, got the nut off. There was some rust, but I believe I have it cleaned up and properly spaced now. I will report again after another range session.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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The good news is you can remove the barrel and shroud. If the threads on the barrel are damage you can order a new barrel and nut from EWK ARMS for a modest sum.When I obtain a new dan I always clean the threads on the barrel, frame, and nut with a brass brush. Oil the threads and screw the barrel into the frame as far as it goes( with the cylinder open) . Then back it out, close the cylinder and set the gap. Do the same with the nut before putting on the shroud. These guns are mostly from the 70's and early80's and usually have not been properly cleaned in a long time ,if ever. Once it is done, it is easy to keep it clean. I suspect the nut is loctited to the barrel by a misguided former owner or LE armorer. Ole Dog
December 13, 2013
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Ole Dog said
The good news is you can remove the barrel and shroud. If the threads on the barrel are damage you can order a new barrel and nut from EWK ARMS for a modest sum.When I obtain a new dan I always clean the threads on the barrel, frame, and nut with a brass brush. Oil the threads and screw the barrel into the frame as far as it goes( with the cylinder open) . Then back it out, close the cylinder and set the gap. Do the same with the nut before putting on the shroud. These guns are mostly from the 70's and early80's and usually have not been properly cleaned in a long time ,if ever. Once it is done, it is easy to keep it clean. I suspect the nut is loctited to the barrel by a misguided former owner or LE armorer. Ole Dog
Got it. Thanks for the tip! I'll try it out.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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My reply was slow. Glad you got it off and it was'nt loctited or damaged.Treat the threads. You may find .006 is too large a gape. Check each chamber and set the gape at .004 on the proudest(tightest) cylinder.
December 13, 2013
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How much, if any, endshake is acceptable on a 14-2? It seems like, due to the cylinder latch design, some may be unavoidable, what with the detent ball at the rear of the cylinder, but I am not as knowledgeable as I'd like and would appreciate the benefits of more experienced lights.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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rwsem, feel free to jump in here with your knowledge. I ' m at a loss. What is end shake? My dans lock up tight. The latch to the front helps that. Reb, you may have something else going on, maybe a worn ball spring , hand or bushing on the cylinder rod. Come on Arlen, pipe up for Reb.
December 13, 2013
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Ole Dog said
rwsem, feel free to jump in here with your knowledge. I ' m at a loss. What is end shake? My dans lock up tight. The latch to the front helps that. Reb, you may have something else going on, maybe a worn ball spring , hand or bushing on the cylinder rod. Come on Arlen, pipe up for Reb.
By "endshake" I mean the phenomenon of the cylinder moving forward and backward when using hand pressure alone (taking the cylinder between the fingers while locked in the frame and being able to move it an appreciable amount between the forcing cone and recoil shield). In other words, movement along the axis of the cylinder rather than rotational movement.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Oh, that I know. The first thing to check is the dedent ball and spring. The " Average Joe Tuneup " and new small parts including the ball spring would help. It is actually pretty easy with the tutorial. Cleaning the latch will help.Everything on a dan is pretty easy to fix. Carl Lewis designed it to not need a gunsmith for most things. A set of allen wrenches and you can change grips, front sights(15-2), and open the side plate, etc. Don't over polish the lockwork or over lube. The grip screw should not be over tightened(it might need a washer) or you will have a problem with the hammer in DA Reduced power springs are nice but 8 lb.is enough.(71/2 and could have fail to fire) . If the lockup still isn't tight you may need a washer/ spacer on the ejector rod to hold the cylinder from shaking( in front of the cylinder). Many guys on the forum will give you more help than I can. Don't take it to a smith, they'll probably screw it up. If all fails, send it to Dan Wesson. They service the revolvers still.
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