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June 19, 2015
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Hello all,
I have recently purchased a 15-2 .357 with both a 6" barrel and 4" barrel. Currently the 6" is mounted and that is what I would like to fit a holster to. I went to my local Cabelas and they had a Bianchi Hunter 6.5" holster. It is closed at the bottom and felt loose with the snap over the trigger as intended. They did not have a 6" holster for me to try and I assume that to be the correct choice so far. The other available holster through their site is a Bianchi Cyclone. Having read some of the negative opinions on Amazon concerning it I wanted to ask for your opinion and options. The color of the leather is lighter than expected by some folks and the holster is open instead of closed, as the Hunter was in the store. The style of holster suits me. Since it is a rather heavy pistol I would opt for the snap. I looked into the Galco combat master but that seems better suited for my S&W 4" K frame. I don't think it comes in a 6" style. I would like to spend around $75, if possible. Thank you for your time and replies.
February 26, 2012
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This is a little late but look for a holster that fits a Colt Python. They have room for the heavy barrel shrouds and all. You might want to check out various holster makers as Cabela's doesn't have much of a selection. Do a search for gun holsters.
Personally I carry my 4 inch in a El Paso Saddelry Tom Threepersons style made for the Python.
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote.
February 29, 2012
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Here's my take on a Bianchi holster, specifically the Bianchi 7000 series.
Let me preface this though by saying that holster selection is a very personal matter, and will vary much with your intended use.
I've been using a Bianchi 7000 black nylon Sporting Holster with my Dan Wesson, much like the 6 inch one in both the image and the links below. A 6 inch barreled Dan Wesson model 15-2, or 715 fits in this holster quite nicely.
Bianchi 7000 Black Sporting Holster Fits S&W K Frame 6 inch.
qid=1440656945&sr=8-2&keywords=bianchi+7000
Or the 4 inch version which will fit a 15-2 with a 4 inch barrel assembly exceptionally well.
Bianchi 7000 Black Sporting Holster Fits S&W K Frame 4 inch.
qid=1440656945&sr=8-1&keywords=bianchi+7000
The holster was quite inexpensive at only $30 dollars with free shipping when purchased from Amazon, and has proved to be one of the better purchases I have made. The only criticism I have is that the Velcro adjustable retention strap also threads through the belt slide. If you wear a very heavy or thick belt, it can sometimes be a challenge to repeatedly thread it through the holsters flexible (injection molded) belt slide. However, for the price point I simply deal with it, since it seems to be it's only shortcoming.
I prefer a nylon holster, as I am hard on leather. Any leather holster I use eventually gets wet. For me leather holsters often mold, and require extra maintenance. My leather holsters also seem to be harder on the finish of my guns, and they tend to abrade away blued finishes. (you'll see it first on the muzzle, and other friction points of the pistol in the holster)
For all those reasons, I chose the inexpensive Bianchi 7000 holster for my Ranch use holster. I keep my workhorse model 714 Dan Wesson (stainless .357 with a fixed rear) in a Bianchi 7000 series for all of my walk around chores.
In my case the gun and holster both get quite sweaty and filthy. The pair see chainsaw work, tractor time, and lots of other dusty environment use. When all done I simply blow the debris off, and out of the holster then wipe everything down.
- Bullwolf
June 8, 2009
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Some random thoughts of Bianchi holsters. I really like them and have several for various guns. They have changed over the years. I have their 1989 catalog and they have these listings for Dan Wesson: 2H, 2VH, 2, 2V series; barrel length 2 1/2, 4, 6, 8":
Sportsman 5BH, 5BHL, 111; Shoulder Holsters M1000, X15, X88, X2100; Concealment 5BHL, 6, 6X, 10L, 56L, 111, 16; Condor 5BH, 8, X15; Ranger 4000, 4001, 4100, 4505, 4506, 4601, 4605.
I haven't used Bianchi for the Dans a whole lot. I have a large 111 that was bought with a S&W 657, 6", and it's stamped Dan Wesson. It fit the S&W just fine. I haven't tried it with my VH6 DW44.
My earliest Bianchi is a 19L for a Colt 1911, over 30 years old. Still looks pretty good . Dark redish brown color. Lots of scratches, but the leather is still good and the stitching is still sharp and strong. It's an open muzzle, but it overhangs the barrel by 3/16" or so and protects the barrel just fine.
I bought a 717L for a Beretta 92F. It's very light in color. Same quality as the others.
My most recent Bianchi (bought within the last year) is a 111 for a S&W 15. It's about half way in between the other two for color. The leather and stitching is of less quality. It just looks and feels different when it's in your hand. Stamped "Made in Mexico". It fits the gun fine.
I have a couple of the Ranger series and I like them for field use.
June 8, 2009
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For those that have a leather holster that doesn't fit just right on the various Dans: From John Bianchi's BLUE STEEL & GUNLEATHER, starting on page 181:
"The Correct Wet-Molding Procedure
1. To begin with, never soak any piece of leather for more than two minutes; and if the holster is new, without any dye or sealers to close the pores of the leather, fifteen to thirty seconds is plenty of time. Gently massage the surface with your fingers. If an old holster is being refitted, it will take a few more minutes, still massaging the surface around the form of the gun.
Here is a trade secret that you may never have heard before. Adding a couple of tablespoons of any popular liquid detergent to a gallon of very warm water will enable the water to penetrate our holster more quickly and evenly. The detergent softens the water and breaks down surface tension on the leather. After the water dries, do detergent residue is left on the leather.
Oversoaking any leather article will remove the natural oils, causing it to become dried out and brittle; this will shorten its expected life span considerably. Besides, it is virtually impossible to mold leather when it is thoroughly soaked.
The correct term for applying moisture to leather is called "casing." The leather should be damp clear through, but the surface should be dry to the touch.
2. During the actual fitting process, never put your gun in a plastic bag, regardless of how much lubricant you have on it. A watertight plastic bag will cause condensation that can rust your gun. Furthermore, despite the thinness of the plastic, you cannot get a good, close mold, as you can with the bare gun.
I don't even recommend any unusual oiling for the gun, other than what would normally be applied prior to storage. Just take the gun and insert it into the properly "cased" scabbard and proceed to press and mold the leather with your thumbs in an outward flowing motion. Continue this for several minutes until the excess leather, if any, has been pushed away from the high, prominent points of the holster toward the edges.
When all the wrinkles have been rubbed out (this is called "boning" and sometimes is done with a polished hardwood stick resembling a soup spoon) and the outline of the gun appears on the face of the holster, molding is complete.
If a new holster being molded has a safety strap as a part of its design, add about 1/4 to 1/2 inch excess clearance from the snap on the strap to the snap on the holster. When such a holster dries, it will stiffen and the excess safety strap length will be necessary to a proper fit.
June 8, 2009
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3. Here is where a lot of eyebrows will be raised! Now remove the gun from the holster and allow it to dry naturally, perhaps outdoors in natural, but not too hot, sunshine. Merely wipe off what little moisture may remain on your gun. You may be surprised to find that, in most instances, the gun will remain dry throughout the entire fitting process. Reapply a preservative oil to the gun after a thorough wipedown.
Contrary to popular belief, the holster does not shrink during the natural drying process. Only rawhide shrinks. But do be careful not to expose the damp, molded holster to excessive or artificial heat; this will cause rapid drying, resulting in cracking, deforming, and shrinkage.
Although each hostermaker may vary this technique slightly to suit his own particular likes, the method described here is, by and large, the proper way to wet-mold a holster for a custom fit.
4. After the holster has thoroughly dried (which could take from several hours to a day, depending on atmospheric conditions), it is ready for the application of the finish dressing. If a dark finish is desired, you may purchase a quality brand penetrating black dye (or cordovan) from a shoe repair shop or leathercraft store. A 4-once bottle sells for about $1 and will go a long way. At the same time, buy a small container of neat's-foot oil and a bottle of non-lacquer-based harness dressing. A popular trade name to look for is Fiebing's Bag-Cote. The also supply an assortment of various colored leather dyes, oils, and top dressings for the leather products industry.
After many years of experience, I have come to the conclusion that the best place to finish dressing a holster is outdoors in warm, natural sunlight. The natural lighting is better, and the leather dressing will dry faster and more evenly. Moreover, any fumes produced by the various dyes and finishes will dissipate harmlessly.
If a natural tan finish is desired, you can regulate the color by the amount of neat's-foot oil applied. Using a small kitchen or makeup sponge, apply a light coat of warm neat's-foot oil to all exposed leather surfaces. Do no overoil, and do not dip the holster. A little will go a long way. Obviously, the more you apply, the darker the coloring will be. When applied in direct sunlight, a russet-colored suntan will result, giving a beautiful, natural reddish saddle-tan color. No artificial dye can produce this rich shade of tan. Again, work of caution: apply the neat's-foot oil sparingly to avoid overoiling. There is no way to remove excess oil from any leather article.
When the oil has seeped into the leather and the surface is dry to the touch, harness dressing or Bag-Cote can then be applied. This is done sparingly with the use of a 2-inch square scrap of sheep-s wool or the synthetic equivalent. Brisk circular strokes are used all over the surface until the dressing is rubbed well into the pores of the leather. A bright shine will result, giving the holster a protective finish. Additional coats may be applied as needed to achieve the desired amount of luster. Allow to dry thoroughly before using. For dyed holsters, the neat's-foot oil application is not necessary, but may be used after application of the dye."
Again: This information is from John Bianchi's BLUE STEEL & GUNLEATHER.
August 28, 2014
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Thanks for posting this ! ^^^^^^^^^
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