February 21, 2011
Thoroughly clean the chambers, hard baked on carbon & lube may be a problem.
Get the chambers polished (not reamed or ground) just polished.
Try these 2 first & we'll go from there.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
August 8, 2016
mister callan said
Thoroughly clean the chambers, hard baked on carbon & lube may be a problem.Get the chambers polished (not reamed or ground) just polished.
Try these 2 first & we'll go from there.
This. I sent my 722 to Bob at DW who polished the chambers which helped but they’re still a pain. I find it’s easier to eject if you don’t smack/tap the ejector rod. But rather a slow firm deliberate push on the rod.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
DWF Supporters
June 11, 2017
DWF Supporters
June 11, 2017
DWF Supporters
June 11, 2017
DWF Supporters
June 11, 2017
Oh no!! Don't ruin the value of the K22 by shortening the barrel. Sell it and buy a 4"Combat Magnum. With that being said, I have a K22 Masterpiece, 1946 one liner LERK that was shortened to 31/2". It is a tack driver. I need to get a letter on it. I have several Large Ejector Rod Knobs, several K22 Outdoorsman and 5 K22 Second models. I am trying to corner the market on Second Models. Lol. Only 1062 to go.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
DWF Supporters
June 11, 2017
Ole Dog said rnOh no!! Don't ruin the value of the K22 by shortening the barrel. Sell it and buy a 4"Combat Magnum. With that being said, I have a K22 Masterpiece, 1946 one liner LERK that was shortened to 31/2". It is a tack driver. I need to get a letter on it. I have several Large Ejector Rod Knobs, several K22 Outdoorsman and 5 K22 Second models. I am trying to corner the market on Second Models. Lol. Only 1062 to go. rn rnIt is a birth year gun for me (1950), so probably not selling it. I'm sending off another gun to be rebarrelled. If that works out well, I'llrnprobably hunt up a 4" barrel for the K22 and do the same thing.j
November 5, 2010
Seriously, don't ruin an old "real" S&W.
BTW, for me and many others, S&W permanently ceased to exist when Safe-T-Hammer purchased them out of bankruptcy and put the last nails in the coffin on what used to be excellent revolvers. They have legally changed their name a couple times since, they are still the same low lifes of Safe-T-Hammer. Far worse than the previous british conglomerate that owned S&W and brought them near to bankruptcy from a quality standpoint, with the final nail being political.
My K22 masterpiece is a 1930's in amazing condition. It wears Sanderson grips. I have none of the original paperwork,tools,original grips, or box. I could have purchased a correct box with it in reasonable shape(wrong serial), and correct grips in excellent shape if I had wanted them. Since they weren't original to the revolver, I chose to save the money. Kind of wish I had got them. I only own 3 S&W's made before skilled labor, hand fitting, and no required production numbers from the individuals in production were things of the past(60's and older).
I will not shoot my K22 any longer due to eyesight; the rear sight notch is too narrow on the old pre-war S&W's for my eyes to do it any justice. I actually only got to enjoy shooting it a little the first 2 or so years I had it. I have 3 other 22 revolvers, a modern stainless ruger I use a lot, an 80's S&W combat masterpiece that is way above average for that time frame, and a new/unfired Ruger second year production. First year production was about 50 total in December 1954, technically 1 was made in 1953. I never wanted that one and still don’t, long story I won’t bore you with. You could argue my 1960’s model 53 is a 22, it does have the 22 inserts for the 22 Remington Jet cylinder, but I don’t count it as a .22.
My 22 revolvers.
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