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February 22, 2009
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a picture will help but you'll want to keep the front of each chamber flat as Scorpio suggested- a local machine shop should be able to square things off for you if you don't want to tackle as a DIY project. I'd hesitate to use a file inside the throats- a reamer is the tool to use.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
December 25, 2018
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rwsem said
a picture will help but you'll want to keep the front of each chamber flat as Scorpio suggested- a local machine shop should be able to square things off for you if you don't want to tackle as a DIY project. I'd hesitate to use a file inside the throats- a reamer is the tool to use.
With the center projection I don't think I could the hold the cylinder flat enough to stone it down. What sort of reamer would I use?
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December 4, 2011
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Is that steel or lead build up? What issue is it causing?, interference with cylinder rotation?
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
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December 25, 2018
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SCORPIO said
Is that steel or lead build up? What issue is it causing?, interference with cylinder rotation?
It's steel, and yes it drags on the barrel (that's why it's shiny) unless I set the gap very wide. As I said one chamber is taller than all the rest (the center one in the photo), so the gap varies from one chamber to the next.
My plan is to shoot Metallic Silhouette with this gun, out to 100 meters, so I'd like all the consistency I can get.
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December 4, 2011
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In that case, I think I'd have the cylinder face milled by a shop for best accuracy.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
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If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
My grandfather
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