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44 Mag Problem
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bipe215
tennessee
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November 22, 2011 - 9:50 pm
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Hello all,

    I purchased a DW 44 Mag frame on GB, attached an extra barrell I had.  The problem I have is that for every six shots, I'll have two or three that the cylinder doesn't lock and the hammer falls way off center.  What's the problem and can a mere mortal with average mechanical skills fix it?  Thanks in advance.

 

Steve

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November 23, 2011 - 12:17 am
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Double check your B/C gap (your barrel-to-cylinder) gap. Set it at a max of .006" on the tightest chamber on the cylinder. It may be that the cylinder is hanging up somehow on the barrel if set too tight...however, I am more inclined to assume that there may be a timing problem.

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bipe215
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November 23, 2011 - 6:55 pm
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   No the gap is good.  It must be internal, but what?

 

Steve

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pops2
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November 23, 2011 - 7:14 pm
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First I would recomend that you strip the gun for a through cleaning. you can find the directions for large frames. I had a issue a couple years ago with a purchased 375SM from GB. I ended up sending it to Dan Wesson for repairs rather than sending it back to the seller because the 375's don't come up very often. The cleaning is the cheapest option. even though Dan wesson repairs are very resonable. GOOD LUCK!occasion

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bipe215
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November 23, 2011 - 8:59 pm
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95XL883
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November 23, 2011 - 9:32 pm
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Sounds like my 740 when I got it. The prior owner had butchered the internals. A new hand helped but it's a fitted part. I had to sand it so it would clear the frame but I didn't get it right and wound up taking it to a gunsmith. The smith said he filed the hand some more but at the tip where it contacts the star (the part name escapes me, sorry). The lockup is much better but not perfect.

It's not an expensive part as I recall. You could try it yourself and if it doesn't work out you could send the gun to the factory.

HTH.

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bipe215
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November 24, 2011 - 7:10 pm
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  OK.  Got it apart.  Its very clean and dry inside.  No gunk, no dirt.  Very light oil.  I'm not smart enough to know what's wrong just by looking.  Is the most likely culprit the angle on top of the hand?  If it helps this is a 44VH  Monson

B0172xx.  Should I be looking at the extractor teeth also?  I have another 44 just like this one, would comparing hand angles between the two show up anything, or are the angles to subtle for and untrained eye?

  In comparison, the tips of the extractor 'star' (don't know what to call it), three of them have a very visible bevel across the face.  My other, great running 44VH has a very flat star.  Could this be it?

 

Steve

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Gary J
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November 24, 2011 - 8:00 pm
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If you can take a pic of the inside with the plate off. A picture is worth a thousand words. Some of the guys here may be able to pick out the problem right off the bat.

It does sound like the timing might be wrecked. I hope not. Sometimes people will spin the cylinder and slam it into the frame spinning. That will wreck the timing and damage other things as well. Just about anything can be repaired. 

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95XL883
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November 24, 2011 - 8:58 pm
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Again, I'm not a gunsmith. My original internals were obviously butchered. Sounds like yours are fine. At least that is the assumption I would go under for now. The ejector does sound worn. (Mine shows similar wear, just not as severe.). The ejector on my model 22 is very sharp edged. It's lockup is great. You could order a new ejector from the factory and try it. My hesitation is these are fitted parts and I'm not smart enough to know how to adjust the fit properly. I would be very tempted to put it back together and send it to the factory. Or you could order the new ejector, install it yourself and see how it works. If the timing isn't right, you could still send it to the factory. HTH.

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bipe215
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November 26, 2011 - 4:07 pm
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   Problem solved!  Dissassembled and found all the internals so clean that there was no hint of even a light coating of oil. After some study I very lightly CLP'd a few spots and it runs perfectly.  By the way, the "tie thread around the hand and transfer bar" trick worked perfectly for re-assembly.

   What I don't understand is why is there a ring all the way around the cylinder when you can visually see the bolt doesn't contact it except just before the notches?

 

Steve 

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November 27, 2011 - 9:55 am
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bipe215 said:

What I don't understand is why is there a ring all the way around the cylinder when you can visually see the bolt doesn't contact it except just before the notches?

I've pondered that, too. I can only assume that the speed of everything happening, when you're at the range must somehow bring the bolt into contact a little sooner, then when you're operating it slowly at home.

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robhof
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November 29, 2011 - 7:29 pm
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You hit the nail on the head about the ring; competition revolvers are timed slightly different than slower shooting as in ram style shooting.  The factory timing is a compromise and when worked faster than intended the bolt will drop early, thus giving the longer ring line.  Glad that the CLP solved the problem, now it's time for some pic's.welcomerange-time

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