Register
Log In
Home
February 1, 2013
Offline
I have a Dan Wesson 744 I'm working on restoring to working condition, and when I bought it, the timing seemed to be somewhat off. It seemed to lock up properly in double action for the most part, if not a touch fast.
In single action I noticed the same thing. The hammer would lock back just barely before the bolt completely engaged the locking slot in the cylinder. However, when the hammer was pulled back any faster than a snails pace, the bolt would skip over the cylinder locking slot, and leave the cylinder moving freely until rotated around to the next slot by hand, at which point the bolt would properly engage and lock the cylinder. I figured the problem was a weak bolt spring, so I ordered a replacement and installed it. The problem remained. I did notice that the replacement bolt spring was stiffer and shorter than the spring that was in the gun when I bought it. The replacement seems to fit fine though, and the bolt feels like it has adequate springiness.
Does this seem like a problem that could be caused by a worn hand? If it is something that can be caused by a worn hand, how would I go about fitting a new one? I have a replacement on hand, but I've never fitted one, and some instruction from those more experienced than me would help tremendously.
EDIT: After some more research and examination, I have observed that the original hand from this specimen has the right side stoned or filed down. It seems to me that stoning down that part of the hand would allow it to cam over the ratchet sooner. I installed my replacement hand, and found that the timing went in the exact opposite direction, with the cylinder advancing too far before the bolt reengaged. Therefore, I believe that if the hand is the solution to this problem, fitting it would require stoning down the right side of the hand until the cylinder advanced just enough to lock into place correctly. However, I'm going to hold off on fitting any parts until others can weigh in.
Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Offline
Sometimes trial and error are the best; sounds like you are on to something. However, I don't have any experience with cylinder timing.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
February 26, 2012
Offline
Joe, I suggest you find a good gunsmith and have the gun timed. I think you're on to the problem but as you saw a little too much or too little stoning can do odd things to timing. You might want to check the size of the bolt and make sure it's not worn down. Just a thought.
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for dinner. Liberty is a well armed lamb contesting the vote.
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
Offline
I haven't messed with cylinder timing either, so I don't have any sound advice. The hand on large frame DW's is positioned to the right of center in the frame (looking at it with the barrel pointed down range), so the left side of the hand is meant to be shorter than the right. Now yours may have been messed with by a previous owner, it's hard to say from here.
At the risk of possibly ruining the hand, if you're willing to do some experimenting on it, you may indeed correct your problem. But if you grind it down too far, then you'll need to look for a new one, obviously.
February 1, 2013
Offline
I was able to fit the new hand to the gun properly, but the problem remains. When I cock the hammer slowly, she locks up properly, but if I pull back on the hammer too quickly, the bolt skips the locking slot. I'm baffled at this point. Maybe I should just send it back to Dan Wesson.
DWF Supporters
February 13, 2012
Offline
Hi all. I realize that this is an old topic, but I'm having the same problem as the op with my new to me 445. I bought a set of springs from cz but I'm waiting on the tool from EWK (it has compensated barrels and the seller can't find his tool, ugh.) I was wondering if it could be the cylinder aligning ball and spring that wont stop the cylinder from over-rotating before the bolt comes up. Is the ball supposed to work like that. I am planning on changing all the springs out (using the awesome disassembly instruction here BTW) and just sending it to Bob and DW if it doesn't work, but I'm at work, don't want to actually do any work, and I'm curious. Thanks for any info!
1 Guest(s)
