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June 4, 2011
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Hey everyone.
Seems the notches on the trigger and the bolt on this model 22 hang up in this position:
I have noted several diferences with this guns action and my 15-2.
The trigger as well as the bolt are possibly stainless on this .22. I know that the two notches are supposed to engage allowing the trigger to return to the fire position which is not happening here, like as if they just hang up right here.
I also notice the trigger stop screw is on the frame as opposed to the trigger like my 15. I would really appreciate your advice.
Thank you,
Jeff
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January 24, 2009
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I agree that your trigger, bolt, and hammer strut all appear to be stainless. However, I wouldn't think that much of that should affect your gun's operation. Your pic does show some rather heavy lube, you may choose to clean off some of that & that may help you to achieve a better trigger feel…
The trigger stop on the 15-2 trigger usually designates it as an earlier 80's gun, the later models had that travel screw on the frame. Most (if not all) of the 22's I've seen have been on the frame.
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April 20, 2010
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I agree with CF, I would clean everything thoroughly, especially check make sure the hammer strut moves freely, there is a little spring behind it make sure it isnt all gunked up in there. Assemble with very light amount of lube, my preference is ATF. I had a pistol that acted similarly, all it needed was thorough cleaning now it is silky smooth.
-Lonwolf
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
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May 2, 2009
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June 4, 2011
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The lockwork was completly disassembled and cleaned, there is no gunk
I may have gone overboard with the G96 but I think that is not the best picture anyways due to the flash,
I tried to upload this shot last night and was having a message saying due to security, only two of your pictures.. or something like that.
I believe Shoot may be correct, because even when I try to help the thing along manually, it just gets stuck right here every time. This was happening before I cleaned it up so I figured a cleaning would do the trick.Thank you so much Shootist, I may order me a trigger from cz if avalable. I would ask for more feedback from the dwf
Jeff
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May 15, 2011
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There are several things that could be preventing the trigger from returning.
1: weak/broken trigger return spring
2: bolt plunger sticking
3: hammer strut sticking.
Try manipulating these things separately to see if they move freely.
The bolt should move forward against the plunger enough to allow the trigger to return.
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May 2, 2009
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I believe I have that same triggers on my 2 Palmers. It appears to be a casting of some sort. The metal doesn't look like stainless steel. Are these triggers uncommon? It sounds like you guys haven't seen them before.
I took about .005 off of the hammer to get rid of the creep and it didn't seem like steel. I'd like to know what they are made of. Any way to tell?
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June 4, 2011
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Hey Sweeny and all, I will try to see if there is something hanging up the bolt plunger. I put the side plate back on so I would not loose any parts. I would be very hesitant to remove any material in this area because I would not want to mess up the timing (I think) I don't know enough about it to feel comfortable doing that.
I would not be surprised to learn that it is some low grade stainless or possibly like a soligen inox type of material some knives are made of a similar metal.
I will check to see if it is magnetic.
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June 4, 2011
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Hello fellow Dan Fan's!
Happy Day! Fianly resolved my trigger return issue. Turns out the stupid strut plunger was in backwards. That is exactly the way I got it prior to the cleaning job I gave it. I took pics ala average joe and put it all back together the same. I had the time tonight and so, I pulled the sideplate and ran the long screw into the end of the mainspring guide so I could sit and fiddle with things. I blew up Shoot's great pics and as I studied the way all the components interact I saw the problem was the strut not fully retracting. The plunger has a smaller diameter end that belongs towards the hammer, it fits into the strut spring. Because it was in backwards, the plunger would not fully retract..etc,etc,
Thanks to all who replied to my post and special thanks to Shootist whose great post has saved me now for the second time. Now if I could only get that barrel nut off.
The gap is not to bad, right at .006 and so at least now I can pack it off to the range as a side kick for my 15!!
The hammer and the trigger are magnetic so if stainless, lots of iron content.
Happy Fourth to all!!
Jeff
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March 27, 2009
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January 24, 2009
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Congrats on one solved problem. Just a thought, when you go to the range take your barrel tool and shoot it hot and then try and loosen the nut. Can't hurt. I will state the obvious and be sure it is UNLOADED when you try. Good luck and have fun at the range.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
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May 15, 2011
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Congratulations on figuring it out. That would have been a tough one to see just looking at the mechanism.
I imagine whoever assembled the gun last discovered the symptoms but not the cure and dumped the malfunctioning gun on the market.
400 series stainless is harden-able and magnetic to some degree as some other types.
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