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January 7, 2015
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I need to know the proper way to adjust cylinder gap. I adjust it with barrel shroud off, put shroud on and tighten lock nut which decreases cylinder gap. Am I tightening the lock nut too much? should I locktite the barrel in place?
September 3, 2013
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Don't know if this is the "right" way, but I tighten the barrel with the feeler gauge in place.
Steve
January 7, 2015
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That is how I set the gap, but when I tighten the lock nut the gap decreases.
February 21, 2011
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My technique.
Find which chamber has the biggest gap. Line that one up with barrel. Slip feeler in loose barrel gap. Tighten barrel till it just kisses the gauge. Open cylinder. Slip on shroud. Push forward on breech end of barrel with finger. Spin on barrel nut. While pushing HARD tighten. Close action. Recheck gap.
It may not be "perfect" but it works!
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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Here's my method:
- Make sure you have a coat of oil on the barrel nut and barrel threads.
- Insert the gauge between the barrel and the cylinder.
- Turn the barrel until it just touches the gauge. (If you have a Norwich gun skip from here to #7).
- Pull the trigger 6 times checking the gap after each trigger pull.
- If you find you cannot insert the gauge at any position, go to #2 and start over at this position.
- When you get here, the barrel gap is set correctly on the proudest cylinder position.
- Leave the gauge inserted and slip on the shroud.
- Gently and lightly spin the barrel nut on the barrel until it stops using the barrel wrench. I twirl it with a finger.
- Now, when it has made contact with the shroud and stopped, very gently but firmly apply turning pressure to the barrel nut. It will tighten the nut but not turn the barrel itself, thereby maintaining the gap you have set.
I use this method on all of my Dan's and I gap them all to .002. I have never had one jam between the cylinder and the barrel despite sometimes putting as many as 200 rounds through a gun on a given day.
I hope this helps. Works for me every time.
-Mike
October 1, 2012
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IMHO........NEVER, NEVER, NEVER use Loctite on barrel or nut.....NEVER !!!!!!! NEVER
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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Loctite is a NO NO...anti sieze if you really must but NO Loctite..
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"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
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March 25, 2013
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Zoommb 's method is what I do except after a while you can dispense with the shim and eyeball the gap, holding the gun in front of a light and cycling the action through the chambers. Some guns you hold your finger on the forcing cone while you tighten the nut and others you don't have to. When you get a new gun you should clean the threads of nut, barrel and frame with oil and a brass brush. They are quite old and often rusty and dirty. After the initial cleaning , keep oiled ala Zoommb. When you screw the barrel into the frame for the first time open the cylinder and screw it in as far as possible to make sure all the threads are clear. Then back out until you can close the cylinder and set the gap. Ditto for clearing the threads on the muzzle end. How big your gap is will vary depending on how even the chambers are. Always have your tool with you when shooting in case you need to adjust it due to expansion of the metal or powder build up.
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Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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Ole Dog said
When you get a new gun you should clean the threads of nut, barrel and frame with oil and a brass brush. They are quite old and often rusty and dirty. When you screw the barrel into the frame for the first time open the cylinder and screw it in as far as possible to make sure all the threads are clear. Then back out until you can close the cylinder and set the gap. Ditto for clearing the threads on the muzzle end.
Ron has an outstanding idea here. It never occurred to me. With all my Dan's I clean and oil all the threads at every cleaning. However, I recently got a lesson in how important it can be to run the threads all the way in both directions on a new acquisition.
My new to me, and claimed to be NIB, 7460 caused me some grief in this respect. The gun came with a VH4C BA. That means that there is a knurled and threaded "nut" (for want of a better term) on the end of the BA. This closes down the compensation chamber to caliber size so that the compensator can do it's job. This nut should be removeable with you fingers.
When I received the gun, it did, indeed look as if it had only been fired once by the factory. However, the compensator nut would not come off. It took quite some time and a vice and pliers to remove this nut. In the process the pliers (insulated by a towel for the safety of the finish) slipped and caused a couple of small gouges in the front of the shroud.
However, I was able to repair those almost completely.
Here's what happened: powder residue in the compensator evidently absorbed some moisture and caused corrosion to build in the threads of both the compensator nut and the barrel nut.
After quite a lengthy disassembly process, it took me a full hour to clean those threads so that I can now install and remove the compensator nut by hand.
So, as Ron says, run the threads all the way in both directions, clean thoroughly with a brass or stainless brush and lightly oil when finished. It will save your butt later.
Sorry for the length of this post.
-Mike
December 19, 2014
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For breaking threads like that when stuck a careful application of PB Blaster along the exposed seam and letting it soak overnight really helps (for me so far it's 100% in not having to use vice/pliers/leather-towel technique). I haven't noticed any issues with PB Blaster and blueing, but again, did I say careful application?
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Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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middlecalf said
For breaking threads like that when stuck a careful application of PB Blaster along the exposed seam and letting it soak overnight really helps (for me so far it's 100% in not having to use vice/pliers/leather-towel technique). I haven't noticed any issues with PB Blaster and blueing, but again, did I say careful application?
Actually, you're right. I have plenty of magic juice (50/50 ATF and Acetone) around. I guess I'm getting spacey. I never thought of it.
-Mike
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