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May 5, 2022
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Hello All!
Range day with the new D/W 22 was enlightening to say the least. My left hand was getting blasted with hot gas and turned gray from blow by after a few cylinders of shooting. I am assuming the barrel needs to be adjusted? I stuck a .006 feeler gauge between cyl and barrel and got a loose .006. That being said the case ejector rarely worked due to the brass "flaring" after being shot? I had to use a screwdriver to pry them out enough to utilize the ejector. The gun shoots as sweet as anything I've ever shot, minus the above issues and I really enjoyed the shooting part.
My other issue is the barrel nut. It is way tighter than I believe it should be and all I have is the plastic tool from D/W to remove it. I tried a punch on it to loosen it and failed at that also. So, anybody have any suggestions on getting it loose? I did soak it in PB Blaster also.
I really like the gun and want to make it right so any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks so much,
Keith
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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A barrel tool from EWK is the way to go. If this is the first time you are removing the barrel nut it is possible the owner before you unknowingly used Loctite on it. This would require some heat to loosen the Loctite and remove the nut without damage.
May 5, 2022
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Well I tried the heat method and with a bit of force got the barrel nut loose. Whew! I will be getting the EWK wrench for the future. And as a side note, the barrel turned a little over a full turn to get it to the .006 I am comfortable with. Thanks for the help! Appreciate it!
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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You should check the barrel cylinder gap on all 6 chambers. There will be differences. Set the.006 gape on the proudest cylinder. The one that sticks out the furthest. Now do it again but leave a .004 gap..006 is what the factory specs are so they don't get complaints of the cylinder binding. Even .003 will work if the cylinder face is perpendicular. 22lrcis,a dirty round. Every couple of cylinders worth wipe the face of the cylinder with a rag if you minimize the gap.
You may need a new barrel nut if the nut was buggered getting it off. Clean the barrel and nut threads with a brass brush and oil. Screw the barrel into the frame as far as it goes to clear the threads, then back out to the proper depth. Ditto with the nut on the barrel end. Oil the threads. The plastic tool is probably 40 years old. If it still works be careful not to break it. Don't overtighten the barrel nut. Snug is good. It doesn't come loose. The tool breaks because folks overtighten the nut. EWK or the factory steel tool are best.
Read the Average Joe Tuneup in Gunsmithing.
July 22, 2015
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If ekw still sells barrel nuts buy a new one. I've got one that has 4 notches, think it's a ekw.The old cheap Remington gold seem to work better in mine. They are even better with a LIGHT coat of Johnsons wax on them. Like Old Dog said a dowel or a sectionof a cleaning rod goes in my range bag.
Cliff AKA HDHIC
October 17, 2017
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I’m assuming that the extreme barrel/cylinder gap issue has been resolved; but looking back at the original post, is it possible this DW could have a .22 Magnum cylinder installed? This would explain the flaring of the cases and difficult extraction. A friend of mine was mistakenly shooting .22 LR through the .22 Mag cylinder on his Ruger with similar results.
Supporter
Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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3ric,i was going to suggest the chamber may be oversized and the cases are expanding. I did think of the 22 mag possibility. Check for a M on the face or rear of the cylinder. That would indicate a factory 22mag cylinder.
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