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February 3, 2018
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So some of you know that I hang out/lurk over at Castboolits.
I have also started doing pin shooting since I now have a great DW 15-2 with a 6" barrel!
The first thing you learn over at Castboolits is to slug your barrel and cylinder to make sure you are .001 to .002 over the diameter for proper bullet engagement.
I've done this on my RBH with minimal difficulty, but the barrel is substantialy thicker and heavier.
Does anyone have a recommendation on how to do this on a DW with minimal risk of damage?
Not so much worried about the cylinder, more with the barrel.
Allen
May 21, 2018
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I’m going to slug my 445 as soon as I can get a free minute...basically, the plan would be to clamp the barrel in a vice with soft jaws, preferably leather or wood. Next, drive a muzzle loader ball into the barrel with a brass hammer, then when it’s fown in there keep it going with a 3/8” oak dowel.
I usr the Hornaday balls that are .50 cal for this. It’s almost pure lead and not that tough to get into the bore. If you want, you could also do each end of the barrel. That way you’d get a muzzle reading and a forcing cone reading. You also need a real micrometer for this. A dial caliper just isn’t accurate enough to give a good reading.
Blessed is he, whom when confronted with death, thinks only of his front sight...
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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With revolvers, there's importance in all dimensions, from chamber to throat to bore; not just the boolit in relation to the bore.
And some more reading:
Regards, Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
February 3, 2018
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I've read most of the LASC Fryxell articles, not that they don't warrant a good re-read!
My question is more of how. I have some .440 lead balls.
I might remove the barrel, put it back in the shroud with the barrel nut. That would give some extra strength and protect it from my heavy handed work.
I have a pair of old Brown and Sharpe micrometers. They're the 0.025 per revolution style so I always have fun reading them. My oldest is Junior at MO School of Science and Tech. He can't figure it out. Dad still surprises him once and a while. 
May 21, 2018
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I would not put the barrel back in the shroud for this. Tapping the lead ball down into the barrel with a small brass (BRASS) hammer isn’t that tough. Plus, the shroud won’t fit tight on the barrel. You’d just risk dicking up the shroud for no reason. The vice shouldn’t be that tight where it would harm the barrel either. Soft jaw vice is what you need. Also, run some oil in the bore first too.
You’ll do fine! 🙂
Blessed is he, whom when confronted with death, thinks only of his front sight...
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February 22, 2009
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soft lead and lubricate the bore- then pound away; no issues. I use old Army steel cleaning rods to drive the slug material through the bore- I seem to have a lot laying around and they're not good for much anything else... You can hand hold the barrel, either end up (another DW advantage), on the table to do it- as Jonny V stated- it's not tough.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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