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December 9, 2014
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ese927 said
Make sure the stars trac bushing is down at least flush. I do not know if it is pressed or threaded, tho, it does have a pin.
Here's some more photos of the star and the track bushing.
I kinda feel there is a more than desirable amount of the track bushing protruding from the cylinder - it is not flush. How is this adjusted? I don't know how to get a pin like that out, but assume it takes a specialized tool.
December 19, 2014
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Any status on your dilemma?
December 9, 2014
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middlecalf said
Any status on your dilemma?
Only that it still is one... Trying to channel the DW gods for some help! I'm in PA, not far from Norwich, so that might be a final option. Surprised this hasn't happened to someone before! I am really perplexed as to what exactly went wrong. I mean, I was following the AJT for disassembly and reassembly, and all I did was put 50 rounds of .38special 158 grain through.
extraction was very sticky, however. I hope I did not cause this problem by jamming down on the extractor arm too hard, although it is looking as though this may be the case.
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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pull the cylinder back apart-- roll the ejector rod across a flat surface and make sure it is not bent. If it is straight, screw it into the star and spin it by hand to see if it looks straight. Something is not lined up properly.
SHOOT
December 9, 2014
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middlecalf said
mtwtrf - not sure if I'm helping just throwing things out, but I guess I'll keep at it until something shows up that helps. Does the back of the cylinder under the extractor look like this pic? Not sure but it looks like maybe there's a bushing threaded in there, maybe it's not seated all the way keeping the extractor from sitting fully flush?
There is indeed an extractor track bushing held in with a roll pin. I was able to use a wooden punch to get it lowered a bit. I realize now that I was pushing the busing out toward of the back of the cylinder when I was forcibly removing those spent cartridges at the range. I was really whacking on it and maybe it moved more easily because it was warmed up. Thanks to Cecil too for the advice to look at this component.
So now the cylinder closes, the arm meets with the star and cycles as it should BUT I am back to square one, meaning my initial problem of the trigger sticking once every six pulls has returned, and I am positive it is just on this one chamber. I went back and reread my initial thread about the trigger sticking and double checked the trigger overtravel screw and the grip screw (although I don't have a washer in there, I don't believe this is the problem).
So I am in better shape than a week ago, but still lost as to why the trigger would stick once every 6 pulls, and this is with or without the barrel and shroud installed to rule out a proud chamber at the face of the cylinder. My thoughts: maybe I need to seat the star track bushing down a tiny bit further in case once of the chambers is proud on the rear of the cylinder? I have tried but can't seem to get it to go any further, however I wasn't using the exact proper tools. I can get my hands on those this week.
Another thing I notice is that when cocking the hammer to advance to the chamber that has the trigger-sticking issue, it feels like there is a hard catch on the second half of the cocking motion. Then I squeeze the trigger and it sticks. Same chamber every time. Could this be a worn out star or cylinder hand, or perhaps they are not mated to each other?
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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Have we tried backing the barrel out and checking for this problem?
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December 9, 2014
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ese927 said
Have we tried backing the barrel out and checking for this problem?
Yes. Unfortunately the trigger sticks with the barrel backed completely removed. Also with the grip screw completely removed.
I think it must be something with the cylinder itself, or the hand and star meeting that messes it up on that one chamber. To be honest, it is not exactly every six pulls. Sometimes it does not stick and sometimes it sticks on two adjacent chambers. Does this theory make sense?
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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I hate to says this cause usually there is not that much problems I have seen or heard from DW's unless the gun has been damaged some way.... You might be wise to contact Keith at DW Norwich and send the gun to him for repairs. This way they will check every thing including the frame and fix it properly. This is sounding more and more like your best course of action.
Have you or do you that any parts had been replaced in the gun that maybe were just dropped in and not fitted.... ie the cylinder bolt, hand or the star/cylinder? something weird is going on and unfortunately when I cannot have the weapon in hand or others for that matter it is seeming like a problem that cannot be solved w/o a gunsmiths hands and eyes directly on. Maybe take some more pics, clearly, of the hand in and out of the frame, from different angles. same with the bolt in gun and trigger mech.
Oath Keeper #021479 NRA #206814004
Member AAGSR Member AGA #83120600233
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
Richard Henry Lee
American Statesman, 1788
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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I would not be surprised if someone tried to do a "Trigger Job" and filed material off the hammer or trigger causing the sticking problem.
December 9, 2014
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ese927 said
Have you or do you that any parts had been replaced in the gun that maybe were just dropped in and not fitted.... ie the cylinder bolt, hand or the star/cylinder? something weird
What is the cylinder bolt? I am starting to think the trip back is the best course of action, too. It is just so darn frustrating that it is not operating correctly!
December 9, 2014
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snake-eye said
I would not be surprised if someone tried to do a "Trigger Job" and filed material off the hammer or trigger causing the sticking problem.
sad to say I agree with you
December 19, 2014
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Cylinder bolt is the mechanism that locks the cylinder in place (you can see the top part of the bolt that protrudes into the cylinder cavity of the frame). When you just lightly squeeze the trigger (just a slight pull) does the cylinder rotate freely with a click as each recess passes over the bolt (which is "released" to allow this)? And if so, after doing this (rotating the cylinder to a new position) does the trigger still stick after exactly 6 pulls (i.e. independent of the cylinder position)? This gun is starting to p*ss me off cuz we can't get it working fully, and it's not even mine!
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
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With the trouble you are having I would agree it may be time to investigate sending it in to the Norwich factory. Unfortunately I don't have any better advice on getting your Dan working right, it is very hard to diagnose issues sometimes without seeing the revolver in person. You could email them and describe all your issues to see what they say. I do not know of any gunsmith anywhere else I would trust to work on it.
Last year I sent a 15-2 in for work, and am very happy with the results. And for the amount of work they did the cost was more than reasonable.
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
December 9, 2014
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mtwtrf said
snake-eye said
I would not be surprised if someone tried to do a "Trigger Job" and filed material off the hammer or trigger causing the sticking problem.sad to say I agree with you
I'm going to open her up one last time this weekend when I get a new trigger spring from Wolff and look everything over.
What am I looking for that would be a dead give-away on a "trigger job"?
I would like to point out that that with the cylinder open, the trigger and hammer mechanisms seem to work perfectly (no sticking)...
January 5, 2015
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Hi, just been reading over your story and looking at your images. One thought came to mind, is the cylinder aligning detent ball functioning correctly? Does the ball seem to have proper spring tenstion on it and does it align correctly into the detent on the back of the cylinder?
Karl
December 19, 2014
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There are two places the cylinder touches anything that has to do with the trigger - that being the bolt and the hand. Since you don't have a sticky trigger when the cylinder is open it must have something to do with these two items. I'd start there. Wrt the hand, it could also be the ejector star - and your previous problem involved the star, or its proper seating.
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