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Cleaning my 15-2V
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jdt81
Southeastern PA
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July 27, 2013 - 6:13 pm
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I just realized that all of my handguns are stainless, until I recently bought a 15-2V.  I've put a few hundred rounds through it already and have noticed the cylinder is pretty dirty.  Most of it is carbon but along the front (towards the barrel) end of the cylinder there is a thin line of lead deposit.

 

So, my questions.  First, why is lead depositing on my cylinder? and second, what is the best and safest way to get all the fouling off the gun without hurting the bluing.  Will a copper brush and Hoppes damage the finish?

 

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DW-1.jpg

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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July 27, 2013 - 7:00 pm
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I use Birchwood's Lead cloth- but be diligent.  Are you shooting cast bullets?  If so, I'd say they don't quite fit- maybe .001 - .002 undersized.  But this is not terribly abnormal- just some gas cutting, I'd guess.  It may be baked on powder???

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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iagbarrb
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July 27, 2013 - 10:11 pm
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This is really a good topic.

I do not have lead yet, but this is a question of time. There is something I would like to add to the topic if you agree, and this is the fact that I allways fear that lead ammo, particularry wadcutters and .38 ammo in a 357 revolver might leave lead deposits in the cylinder, or even damage it. I mostly use waddcutters in my 15-2V because I normally search for the best accuracy.

I do not use a brush to clean the cylinder. I use hoppes 9 or the good german Ballistol, and carefully remove dirt with a towel.

Other thing that bothers me is the fact that in a revolver you have to put the brush to the barrel in the front of it. (in DW you can remove the barrel, but this is not the usual way to clean a revolver).

I have the feeling that I am damaging the barrel muzzle by douing it.

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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July 28, 2013 - 7:29 am
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If shooting 38s in a 357, eventually enough carbon will form in the chamber, before the throat, that you will not be able to insert a .357 cartridge. 

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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jdt81
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July 28, 2013 - 7:51 am
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rwsem said
 It may be baked on powder???

The stuff in the flute is baked on powder, but the stuff at the front appears to be lead.  It shiny and metalic and looks very different from the dull grey stuff in the flutes.  The picture made them both look the same however.

DW-1.jpg

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iagbarrb
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July 30, 2013 - 12:23 am
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I have not big experience with revolvers. But I do not belive it is lead.

Were you able to remove it? Try Hoppes. Let hopes all over night and try to remove it with a towel. I do not believe hoppes powdr solvent will damage the finish. Backed powder will.

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jdt81
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July 31, 2013 - 7:39 pm
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Tried Hoppes and a brass brush (the 22 brush fits in the flutes perfectly).  The lead came off easily and there doesn't seem to be any damage to the finish.  Not sure if I want to do this on a regular basis though.

 

I'm still curious if anyone has experience with a brass brush damaging the blueing on a revolver.  Seems like it shouldn't since the brass is so soft.

DW-1.jpg

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rwsem
SOWELA (Southwest Louisiana)

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July 31, 2013 - 8:48 pm
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I, personally, wouldn't make a habit of it.  Blueing is rust on steel- not the steel itself.  Before firing the next time, wipe the cylinder with Kroil (my favorite) or other quality gun oil, and that should make it easier to clean afterwards.  Additionally, check your gap on the "highest" chamber- you can run it down to .002-.003 and that should help as well.  Bring your barrel wrench to the range in case you need to adjust after she heats up.

Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....

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Blacktop
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August 3, 2013 - 4:02 pm
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Shooters choice , toothbrush and then wipe down with hoppes to remove shooters choice when done.

Works like a charm.

 

-Blacktop

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