Register
Log In
Home
February 26, 2009
Offline
Greetings..... I've had my 15-2V apart twice now and all went very well.. My question is:
The feeler gauge is .006 and the instructions say to "snug" it down using the gauge but be able to pull it out. I'm no machinist so I'm not sure how hard a pull is needed? As long as I can pull it out without the use of tools? Or should I try to keep it "just tight"?
I'm sorry if this doesn't sound clear. I've been tryin to figure out how to explain this for a while now! LOL
I guess the end question is .. What is too tight? Comments always welcomed!
BH
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
Offline
BH-
I use a tight .006, by which I mean that I can remove the gauge with light to moderate effort, but cannot easily re-insert the gauge. Check the entire cylinder, production variances can result in some difference around the entire cylinder. Set the gap on the tightest chamber, and I always check every chamber for a visible gap before shooting.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
November 23, 2008
Offline
Good morning
Cylinder gap. I have several Dans and they are each individuals and each barrel needs to be tested individually.
First I do not set my gap at .006. This was discussed years ago in the Gates paper about steel shooting. The winners all set thier barrels closer. The best route I found was to start the gap at .003 (snug fit) and be sure the cylinder would rotate freely. Do my load developement and find the MOST accurate load. Then begin to reduce the barrel gap by .ooo5 (my machinest feeler guage has that) and try my BEST load 20 rounds at 50 yards sandbaged. Reduce again .ooo5 until the BEST acuracy/barrel gap is found. My 3 Dans are all set .001- .0015. The cylinders turn freely except the 41 just drags at one cylinder. Actually this revolver shot BEST with no Gap but the 3/8 inch gain is not worth the hassle closing and hand turning the cylinder. Plus in real life even prone I will wobble that much.
Be sure to write down your findings and TAPE the BEST gap to each barrel. Generally the best gap will hold the same for different bullet weights... but again recheck.
But I would not trade my Dans for the otheres... Maybe a Freedom arms ... but I would still have to think long and hard.
Mike in Peru God Bless ya´ll HE is Risen !
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
Offline
I agree pretty closely with Mike in Peru. I use my .002 feeler gauge to set the gap for all of my DW's. I set it so that the gauge can be easily slipped in and out of the tightest one while still in contact with both the barrel and the cylinder.
I took my .357SM out for the first time yesterday knowing that I had set the headspace too tight. I had set it so that I could barely shove the gauge in between the cylinder and the barrel and really couldn't see light on some of the cylinder positions. I took the barrel tool with me but forgot the feeler gauge so I wound up hand-turning the cylinder after the first shot heated everything up and closed the gaps due to expansion. 
Oh well, I've fixed it and am going back today and shoot it again and pick up my new Li'l Dan (738P). I'm of course, going to shoot that one too. 
I also own a Freedom Arms. This gun is truly a work of art. There is no finer quality of build anywhere. Does that mean I would trade one of my DW's for an FA. Not on a bet. Personally I think that the DW is also a work of art and my DW's are still, far and away, my favorite guns.
1 Guest(s)
