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The cylinder on my DW15 is hard to open. I have looked at it, and not knowing much about it, it appears that the barrel may be a bit close to the cylinder causing it to drag. Could that be the case? I know it's hard to say w/o looking at it, but does this seem logical?
Thanks,
Dave S
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Do you have a barrel tool? If not, go to the EWK link and order one. With tool in hand, remove the barrel nut in the end of the muzzle. Pull the barrel shroud off and unscrew the barrel. Set the gape at .003 or .004 on the tightest cylinder. Cycle the action (pull the trigger) and measure till every chamber is checked. Use a set of feeler gauges from the auto parts store. Replace the shroud and reinstall the barrel nut. Tighten it snug but not overly so. Open the cylinder and put a finger on the forcing cone while you tighten to prevent the barrel from moving. Measure the gape again to make sure it did not move. The feeler gauge should slid easily but snugly in the gape. If you force the gauge in it will push the cylinder back against the recoil spring and the gape will be to tight. If it spits powder the gape is to large. Let us know what happens. A good cleaning should be done on a newly acquired dan. with the barrel off, scrub the threads on both ends of the barrel, the nut and the frame with a brass brush. When you reinstall the barrel, open the cylinder and screw the barrel all the way in to clear the threads and then back out till you can close the cylinder and set the gape. Remove the grip as there can be dirt and corrosion under it, especially rubber grips. Read the forum for info on oils, tuneup and repair. Good luck.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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When reinstalling the grip tighten just enough to secure the grip. Do not over tighten.
February 21, 2011
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If the breech end is actually dragging on it yes, if not it's something else.
My best guesses:
The hinge point is grunked up with crud & needs a strip down cleaning.
The latch is similarly dirty making it hard to release.
(Hopefully not this one though)
The crane is deformed & is dragging the cylinder when you try to break it open.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Was just noticing something. There is some play in the cylinder, ie: front-to-back-allowing the cylinder to occassionally rub against the rear of the barrel. It isn't much-but should there be "any"? That isn't normal-is it? Also, is it dangerous to shoot. Any suggestions as to what I should do?
Thanks,
Dave S.
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
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I would definitely check the gap on your barrel it sounds like it is too tight. It should never rub the cylinder face. https://www.danwessonforum.com/faqs/how-to-change-barrels-and-grips/
After that check the latch it could well be needing a cleaning. Let us know if things improve after all that. When the cylinder is closed it is held in the rear by the cylinder ball which is spring loaded. Maybe that is the endplay you mean?
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
Do I have to remove the side plate to be able to remove the cylinder and latch?
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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koko14.2 said
Do I have to remove the side plate to be able to remove the cylinder and latch?
To remove the cylinder- Yes
To remove the latch-No
My best suggestion is to look at
https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
The most basic level of this is a clean up of old powder reside and crud, you may have an issue with the cylinder aligning ball at the rear of the cylinder, but it really sounds like a B/C gap issue.
Try an in depth clean up and lube, many 15-2's have been safe queens for a long time, and they are a victim of:
1) Incorrect B/C (barrel>cylinder) gap
2) Overtightened grip screw
3) Benign neglect
So far, your problems seem pretty "fixable" with some pretty simple procedures
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
October 26, 2008
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When does the cylinder actually get stiff to move is it right when you are opening it or is it stiff to move through the entire arc? If it is stiff to move only when you open it check the screw in the front part of the crane to make sure that it is not bottomed out it should be about flush or just below flush. The other thing to check if it's stiff just when you open it check the screw that tensions the ball bearing (rear lockup ball) this is accessible when you take it apart this screw should also be flush or just below flush.
If it's stiff all the way through the rotation then check to make sure the crane lock doesn't have a burr on it or is fit too tightly.
Otherwise I agree it's probably all gunked up and could use a good in depth cleaning.
February 21, 2011
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I'm guessing someone over tightened the barrel by not setting the gap properly. When you use the gauge it should JUST touch, & you should stop the barrel rotating when you tighten the barrel nut as that will close the gap as well.
It seems like you have to little gap & you can just reset it for starters at least. There should be a gap of 4~6 thou with the cylinder fully forward.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
superdan said
When does the cylinder actually get stiff to move is it right when you are opening it or is it stiff to move through the entire arc?Just when you attempt to swing the cylinder open. When I press the ???? thing to release the cylinder.
If it is stiff to move only when you open it check the screw in the front part of the crane to make sure that it is not bottomed out it should be about flush or just below flush.
What is the crane?
The other thing to check if it's stiff just when you open it check the screw that tensions the ball bearing (rear lockup ball) this is accessible when you take it apart this screw should also be flush or just below flush.
If it's stiff all the way through the rotation then check to make sure the crane lock doesn't have a burr on it or is fit too tightly.
Otherwise I agree it's probably all gunked up and could use a good in depth cleaning.
No way I would attempt this. I am a complete "Idiot"!
February 21, 2011
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"the screw in the front part of the crane" ?
I'm honestly confused as to what part this is??? the only thing I can think of coming close to this description is the ejector rod???
The crane is the "U"shaped part which makes the axle for the cylinder, & attaches it to the gun's frame.
Its the bit outlined in red in this picture. It has 2 "axles" that you can't see, one inside the cylinder, forming the axle, the other inside the bottom of the gun's frame. I made a couple of grey outlines to give you an idea where they're hidden.
I have a couple of suggestions for you that anyone can do, maybe they're worth a try.
1: If you have the wrench & feeler gauge that adjust the barrel try this. Double-check the gun is absolutely empty.
Unscrew the barrel nut, slide the sleeve off, then unscrew the barrel 1/2 turn. Reattach the sleeve (shroud) back on & re tighten the nut. If the problem goes away it was too tight. DO NOT fire the gun like this!!. re set the gap correctly first by undoing the nut again & turning the barrel back in slowly til it JUST touches the gauge. Check it is still fixed & if so tighten the nut & you're done.
2: You can clean the gun quite well without dis-assembly except for the one screw in the bottom of the grip. Remove the grip by loosening the screw & pulling down. Now hose out every little nook & cranny you can find with lots of an aerosol product called "Gun Scrubber" Repeat a couple of times remembering to squirt it inside every opening you can find. Do this outdoors & wear some kitchen rubber gloves as it might sting if you have a cut.
This will remove everything including any oil, so remember to lightly lube everything & wipe down with an oily rag before storing it.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
I certainly appreciate this info.
I did this morning remove the nut and shroud to check the barrel. I attempted to screw the barrel out, and it is extremely tight. Should it be this tight? I finally had to get some pliers and carefully turn the barrel about a quarter turn. But the barrel is still extremely tight. What should I do about this.
Thanks Mister Callan
October 26, 2008
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The screw that I am referring to is the small set screw that holds the cylinder latch on the crane. If it is turned in too far it will not allow the latch to move down far enough to unlock smoothly. It takes a .050 allen wrench to turn. Here is a picture of the screw.
February 21, 2011
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OK got it. I forgot that one, sorry.
I'm guessing the threads are very gunked up as a small section of the barrel extends back through the frame & so gets high speed, high temp debris every time the gun is fired. Usually it just freely unscrews once the shroud is pulled.
I'd suggest soaking the threads from both front & back end with a couple of drops of gun cleaning solvent, or penetrating oil, repeating until it dissolves enough crud to free the threads. I'd drop a few drops into the join & give a quick scrub with an old toothbrush to remove the build up & then wiping & adding a couple more drops & allowing it to just sit & penetrate. Forcing it without dissolving what is binding it up could damage something. The fact its so stubborn indicates to me that some deep cleaning is indicated.
I usually put a little anti-seize compound (you can find it at auto parts stores) on the threads & run them in & out a few times to smear it evenly to prevent this happening again. those threads can bind up pretty stubbornly if not periodically stripped, cleaned & re lubed. You can do the same thing at the muzzle end threads as well.
Did the 1/4 turn free up the tightness when opening? If it did the problem was probably too tight a fit between barrel & cylinder front, if it didn't the second favorite would be a lot of deep cleaning. Actually I fibb, it probably need both!
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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The first rule of owning and using tools is: keep them clean.
Every time you return from the range you should thoroughly clean you guns, and with Dan's that means removing the barrel assembly, and cleaning the threads and applying a little oil to the threads along with all of the other items of proper gun cleaning, before reassembly.
JMO.
-Mike
February 21, 2011
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I have to admit I don't do that. I do clean the exposed ends with solvent & a brush every time, but I only pull the barrel & shroud annually.
That's one reason I put anti-seize on both sets of threads.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I'm with you on this Mike. I clean my dans every range trip. A fine piece of industrial art gives me pleaaure to maintain and marvel at it.
I just noticed something. The front outer edge of my cylinder looks as if it has been rubbing against something, because the edge has a shiny area around just the outer edge. Almost like it has been dragging against something.
Whaddaya think??
Dave S. koko14.2
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