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November 17, 2008
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If I understand your description the only thing it could rub against is the barrel. Once the barrel is backed off, if it isn't already, you can move to the next thing to look at.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
February 21, 2011
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Definitely not right.
The only thing coming even close to the cylinder front should be the rear edge of the barrel. Everything else should have a good 1/8" clearance because the barrel rear end protrudes from the frame.
Did backing the barrel off 1/4 turn free anything up, even slightly?
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Adjusting the barrel helped some-but not completely. It is still somewhat challenging to open. However, I did notice that there is some play front-to-back in the cylinder. How much is required, I don't know.
I think someone who had the gun before me didn't do much maintenance. Possibly the barrel was adjusted wrong and no one did anything to try to correct it.
At this point I am just grasping for straws. But bet your life-before it's over the gun will be working well. It isn't really that bad now.
October 26, 2008
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Is it still stiff only when you first start opening it? If so open it and looking at the latch press it down does the part that actually locks the cylinder in the frame move down to approximately flush with the top of the frame when you press the latch down?
February 21, 2011
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1/4 turn isn't a lot, those threads are really fine. It sounds like you're on the right track & the barrel gap is the main problem.
I'd still do a massive clean though as there seem to be crud-related multiple issues. GunScrubber IS your friend!
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Actually yesterday I bought some Winchester Gun Wash Solvent/Degreaser. Couldn't find the Gun Scrubber. Is the Winchester a good product?
I used it heavily twice and re-oiled everything.
October 26, 2008
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Ok here is what I'd do to diagnose it. Take the barrel and shroud completely off before you do anything to completely eliminate it as a culprit.
1. Take the latch off, remove the small set screw lift the latch out and take the coil spring out. Open and close the cylinder if it's still stiff reassemble continue to #2
2. Open cylinder and the hole in the center of the ratchet should have a slight chamfer and should be smooth with no burrs if not lightly stone the chamfer lightly. Also examine the lockup ball and the area of the frame around it to make sure they are smooth, no raised edges or ratchet peening. Try again, better?
3. If none of that worked disassembly is the next step find the thread that describes how and follow it check the screw that holds the spring and ball bearing in to nake sure that it is level with the frame contour in that area or just below. If it is screwed way in unscrew it until it is where it should be and try again.
4. The last area that is left is the bottom of the crane first thing I'd do is remove the crane lock and try it you'll have to hold some back pressure to keep it in while you do this. If it is still stiff you have to have a burr on the frame near where the crane goes into the frame or on the crane itself. The only other thing that I can think of beyond these things is that the crane is bent.
October 26, 2008
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Just thought of a couple more things make sure the hand isn't sticking out of the frame window and you would've noticed it already I hope but the ejector is screwed in all the way and not bent.
February 21, 2011
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I think most of the solvents are probably the same stuff sucked from a 10,000 gallon vat & labelled differently.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
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