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Cylinder rubbing on frame when released.
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Cam
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May 3, 2018 - 5:33 pm
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Hi,

My new-to-me Dan Wesson 15-2 is having a problem where the cylinder is rubbing on the frame. I disassembled it completely and didn't find any missing parts. It's clearly had this problem for a while as made clear by the wear on the frame and cylinder. The ejector is screwed in tight. The cylinder will not spin freely unless the gun is at the right angle

It's rubbing on the very end of the sides of the cylinder and also on the rear of the cylinder at the small knob that sticks out of the frame. The ejector doesn't appear to be bent or damaged and the lockup ball has good pressure. The gun shoots great. 

I'll have some pictures up shortly.

Thank you,

Cam

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Charger Fan
Northern Utah

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May 7, 2018 - 2:43 pm
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I'm not sure what would cause that, you may need to send it to the Norwich DW shop to get it fixed.

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pistolero
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May 7, 2018 - 9:17 pm
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A few more specifics may help: front or rear of cylinder making contact with what area (s) of the frame? Constantly or at some stage of the firing cycle?  Any play in the system or does it feel tight in all axis of movement??  You stated that you detail stripped the weapon, how did the crane go back together - any play or binding??

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Cam
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May 13, 2018 - 1:11 pm
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There is no (very minimal/normal) play when the cylinder is locked into the frame. It's only when it's released for reloading that the rubbing occurs. The crane went back together normally. 

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Hopefully these photos will help somewhat. The only play is the cylinder moves fore and aft slightly when released. But the ejector is tightened together well and I assume this is normal.

 

Thanks,

 

Cam

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snake-eye
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May 13, 2018 - 2:41 pm
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There is a chance your problem is a bent crane. I don't really know how to check this but hopefully someone else will.

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Ole Dog
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May 15, 2018 - 9:18 am
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I think Snake-eye is probably correct. Also, and I don't know if it would contribute to the rubbing on the side of the cylinder, I think the cylinder stop has been knocked out and a replacement stop put in. That is the nub that sticks out from the frame at the rear of the cylinder. It may be rubbing against the back of the cylinder when open and pushing the cylinder against the frame. At this point the damage is done and "What difference does it make". Lol. It locks up tight, shoots well. The cylinder stop ( the little nub) getting knocked out is a design flaw that was corrected in the stainless version and then in 1986 in the blue guns. When ejecting cases do not pound on the ejector rod. If they do not come out easily I use a pencil to push them out. I think the pounding on the rod to remove stuck cases is what breaks the cylinder stop off. The same pounding may have bent the crane. 

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Ole Dog
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pistolero
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May 15, 2018 - 8:59 pm
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I will vote with Snake-eye that it is likely a sprung crane (Yoke) and/or ejector. Last option would be an issue with fit/position of the side plate but this looks normal in the photos. Referencing Kuhnhausen's excellent shop manual for S&W revolvers your symptoms match his example of a yolk in need of straightening. At least for a S&W this requires a special test fixture and gauge to verify and machine work to correct.

Depends on how much you are willing to invest in a fix but a homecoming to Norwitch might be the least painful route?

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lbruce
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May 15, 2018 - 10:24 pm
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Probably not your problem but I have seen almost the same wear markings from the rear sight elevation screw protruding through the top strap rubbing on the cylinder. A quick glance will answer that question. Good luck with your issue.

 

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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Cam
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May 18, 2018 - 8:51 pm
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Thanks for all the help. I checked the both parts of the ejector on a sheet of glass and they appear to be straight, so I'm also thinking it's a bent crane. The cylinder bump-stop is interesting, I'm surprised it's even removable. The sight screw wasn't sticking out either, but I can see how that could cause similar wear. The rubbing got a little better with some "gentle" pressure applied to the right side of the cylinder when released (probably bent something else slightly.) 

Anyways this gun is a shooter for me and another 300 of my 357 reloads seems to have made the problem better. Probably not going to worry about it for now, accuracy is fantastic and I shoot and oil it enough that corrosion isn't a concern. Besides, I think a pistol pack is in my future anyways.

Thanks again for all the insight,

Cam

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Ole Dog
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May 19, 2018 - 8:14 am
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Pistol pack, then a 44 mag. More 15-2s with different shrouds. Then a 22. And that is just for starters. It is called Dan Wesson Acquisition Syndrome, or DWAS for short. dwas

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snake-eye
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May 19, 2018 - 5:18 pm
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Cam said
Thanks for all the help. I checked the both parts of the ejector on a sheet of glass and they appear to be straight, so I'm also thinking it's a bent crane. The cylinder bump-stop is interesting, I'm surprised it's even removable.

Cam  

This was not a designed feature, and it is not a separate part. Earlier production 15-2's were prone to "breaking" out the cylinder stop.The sideplate/cylinder stop was a little fragile, the cylinder stop was eventually reinforced and more fully integrated as part of the sideplate. I super glued mine in place several times, and for many years DW listed a "service part" that they sold to folks who lost theirs. I ordered six and ended up using or giving them all away over the years.  

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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hugelk
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May 19, 2018 - 11:43 pm
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Hello Cam,

i would venture the opinion that one of the prior owners routinely closed the cylinder " Cowboy Movie" style using a one handed flip. That is probably the most common cause of a sprung crane.

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Ole Dog
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May 20, 2018 - 8:43 am
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Hugelk, it is called "Bogarting", after Humphrey Bogart. 

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