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February 3, 2018
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1 - Yes I've done the Tune Up.
2 - Yes, the grip screw is loose/not interfering.
3 - It's been back to Bob @ DW.
a - Cylinder is tight.
b - Factory New mainspring.
c - Timing is good.
I STILL have light strikes in DA. Worst with CCI, but happens with Win and Rem primers.
If I understand the action correctly, the DA hammer travel is completely dependent on the trigger and hammer mating surfaces. These are also MIM parts so you really can't do anything like add some metal via TIG/MIG.
Does anybody have any experience with replacing either the trigger, hammer or both to resolve the issue?
Thanks!
Allen
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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What model do you have. The first Dan Wessons, the porkchops models 11,12,14 and 15 up to serial number 25,000, had the shortest, quickest hammer fall of any revolver. The trigger was changed to lengthen the hammer travel because of light strikes. The new trigger has a ledge the trigger return spring rests on. The 1/16th of an inch difference of where the trigger spring rested was magnified by the radius of the hammer. So, if you have one of those guns a newer style hammer would help.
Did you remove the firing pin and clean out the space in the frame the pin is in? I am sure you have but that sometimes is a cause. Try wiring a small weight to the hammer spur. If that helps you might consider lengthening the spur somehow, maybe with loctite, or wrap it with wire to increase the weight.
February 3, 2018
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Ole Dog said
What model do you have. The first Dan Wessons, the porkchops models 11,12,14 and 15 up to serial number 25,000, had the shortest, quickest hammer fall of any revolver. The trigger was changed to lengthen the hammer travel because of light strikes. The new trigger has a ledge the trigger return spring rests on. The 1/16th of an inch difference of where the trigger spring rested was magnified by the radius of the hammer. So, if you have one of those guns a newer style hammer would help.Did you remove the firing pin and clean out the space in the frame the pin is in? I am sure you have but that sometimes is a cause. Try wiring a small weight to the hammer spur. If that helps you might consider lengthening the spur somehow, maybe with loctite, or wrap it with wire to increase the weight.
It's a Monson 15-2. SN 279XXX. And yes, I've cleaned the firing pin recess. I even bought a new design firing pin and spring (didn't know they weren't backwards compatible).
Do you or can you take a photo of the newer trigger showing where the ledge was added so I can compare?
Weight-wise I take it we're talking on the order of 1 - 2 grams? If that's the case I can wrap some cheap steel utility/mechanics wire on the spur for testing purposes.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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I don't have the tech knowledge to do photos. I am a fossil. However, you have the trigger with the ledge. It is where the trigger return spring rests, against the trigger. The original trigger did not have the ledge and it was a challange to keep the spring in place and put the sideplate on. Follow the end of the spring and where it touches the trigger, that is the ledge.
The wire wrapped around the hammer will tell you if that is the problem. Maybe the hammer is rubbing against the frame.
August 8, 2016
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Wbrco said
1 - Yes I've done the Tune Up.2 - Yes, the grip screw is loose/not interfering.
3 - It's been back to Bob @ DW.
a - Cylinder is tight.
b - Factory New mainspring.
c - Timing is good.
I STILL have light strikes in DA. Worst with CCI, but happens with Win and Rem primers.
If I understand the action correctly, the DA hammer travel is completely dependent on the trigger and hammer mating surfaces. These are also MIM parts so you really can't do anything like add some metal via TIG/MIG.
Does anybody have any experience with replacing either the trigger, hammer or both to resolve the issue?
Thanks!
Allen
Reloads or factory ammo? Are you seating your primers fully?
Surprised Bob didn't have any issues when it was in his possession. Did he not test fire it?
August 8, 2016
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I had lots of DA light strike issues with my older 715 and what helped was shimming the cylinder for endshake. Is there a lot of front to back movement when the cylinder is locked into the frame?
Revolver Cylinder Shims Endshake Crane and Yoke Shims (triggershims.com)
August 8, 2016
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Only other thing to try is backing out the alignment ball screw which will allow the cylinder to come closer to the firing pin. But this can potentially cause more wear and tear on the cylinder face rubbing against the frame?
If you're not familiar with the alignment ball screw, its that screw just below the back of the firing pin. Visible when the hammer is cocked.
If none of my suggestions work, I'm out of ideas
February 3, 2018
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I think I've fixed this!
Had it apart for a thorough cleaning, and was studying the operation.
Now, I don't know where I read it, but it said never mess with the hammer spring base screw in the bottom of the grip. I also remember the same text saying it was very hard to turn.
Well, for grins, while I had everything apart, I ran the grip screw all the way through and tried giving it a little twist. It moved, with a lot less force than I expected.
Knowing that this would add additional compression to the spring, I had a viola¡ moment, but how much to add? If I added too much, the spring would be fully compressed, an the hammer wouldn't catch the sear in SA mode.
So I just S.W.A.G 'd it and gave it total about 3/4 of a turn.
I reassembled, double checked SA and DA operation. I also noticed the DA pull was a little heavier.
That was about 250 rounds ago. No DA light strikes since modification.
February 16, 2016
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Wbrco said
No DA light strikes since modification.
Not a modification, just an adjustment ... well done.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Excellent solution! Great work.
Many, if not most, of the base screws are "pinned" in place. Usually this is a simple peening of the edge of the frame/screw. This generally makes them unchangeable.
If they turn easily it can present other problems - been there.
February 3, 2018
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snake-eye said
Excellent solution! Great work.Many, if not most, of the base screws are "pinned" in place. Usually this is a simple peening of the edge of the frame/screw. This generally makes them unchangeable.
If they turn easily it can present other problems - been there.
= High temp red Locktite.
February 3, 2018
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Oh, and as a side note, I sent my "spare" spring off with my son. He's a Comp E at UM S&T (Rolla). But he started out as an Aero, so he still has friends in the ME Department.
They're going to reverse engineer the spring rate and then I could find a "heavy" spring replacement.
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