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August 26, 2017
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Disclaimer: Ok so I'm new to owning a revolver - all my other pistols are semi-autos.
I started to clean my new/used Dan Wesson 715. I undid the allen screw on the release, took it apart and cleaned all the gunk build up in it from previous owner. I put it back together just like it looked when I took it apart (put spring in in shape of "U" etc... I put the allen screw back in and when I closed up, now I can't open it. The release goes down but the cylinder won't come out now. It's like the release isn't going all the way down for it to let it open. It almost looks like the allen screw may have gone in to far. I am putting the small end of the allen wrench into the where the screw is but it is like I turn it so far and it won't turn anymore. When I reverse direction it loosens then at one point it's like it won't turn anymore. See picture below (not best I know). So am I totally screwed or what? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Also, not sure what is best to clean the "stains" as I would call them on the outside. I tried using my Hoppes #9 solvent but that didn't do anything. It worked great on cleaning all the gunk build up on the other parts. 🙂
Thanks,
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Gabriel, If your latch actually does go down when you press with your thumb, then your problem may be technique rather than mechanical.
Dan Wesson revolvers are unique in the way the cylinder opens. Try this: Hold revolver in your left hand. Put middle 2 fingers of left hand on the back side of cylinder. Put thumb on latch. Simultaneously push down on latch with thumb and push on cylinder with fingers. Cylinder should come open.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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It is possible to screw the allen screw in too far. It will then interfere with movement of the latch. Once you get the cylinder open then back off on the allen screw until the latch operates freely.
Let us know how it works.
Dans Club
October 17, 2008
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As far as cleaning try some Flitz on the Stainless should clean up nice
August 26, 2017
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So tried what snake-eye suggested. I can't get it to open I have pushed down as hard as I can on the latch and pushed as hard as I can on the cylinder from the opposite side. It's like the latch won't go down far enough of something. I was trying to loosed the allen screw. With the revolver facing up I was turning the allen screw towards me. I turned if for like 30 minutes and it didn't come out. It's like it is just turning and going no where. The allen screws won't go in so far they won't come out will they? I would think they would go in only so far and stop.
Thanks all for help.
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Dans Club
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November 17, 2008
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Sounds to me that the Allen screw may have gone past the threads. Did not realize that could happen(if that is what happened). Not sure how to fix that. Take the barrel and shroud off and see if you can tell how deep the Allen is.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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LB is probably right. I screwed one in until it went past the threads but I was lucky enough to get it back out. This was with the cylinder open.
If you can get to the screw after removing the shroud & barrel, then try to get the allen wrench to go into the screw head; then press down on the latch to relieve pressure on the screw and carefully try to line up the screw with the threads and back it out. Slow & gentle is the trick. good luck.
August 26, 2017
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So I know this was a long time ago but I -finally- got my Dan Wesson .357 fixed. Thank you Gun Smith Jake! You saved my Dan Wesson!!!! Granted it cost me almsot $200 but it was WELL worth it.
Turns out where I got this Dan Wesson (from an auction from a "gunsmith" getting out of the business) really made a mess of this revolver. He had removed the "roll pin", threaded the slot for it and only far enough to put the hex screw in but left the rest of the hole unthreaded. So, when I accidentally screwed the screw in to far it had no where to go. It went into the untrheaded area so no threads to "catch". No only that the threading was done at an angle which made it worse.
I tried to take the whole gun apart and had issues getting the plate off. I finally gave up and took it to a highly recommended gun smith in town.
Jake had issues fixing this Dan Wesson but did a darn good job. Now I have a nicely functioning Dan Wesson .357!!!
For those looking at auctions for used guns - buyer BEWARE!
For anyone in the Central Wisconsin area - I highly recommend this gun smith. He knows is $H!T and is friendly and willing to help you!
Gun Smith Jake:
http://www.gunsmithjake.com/
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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gabrieltss said
He had removed the "roll pin", threaded the slot for it and only far enough to put the hex screw in but left the rest of the hole unthreaded.
That's OEM. There was never a roll pin to hold the latch.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 26, 2017
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Are you sure? The "exploded" disassemble instructions he showed me, showed a roll pin.
Ref:
See page 5
https://www.danwessonforum.com/wp-content/uploads/DW%20Disassembly.PDF
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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The 715 has a screw and a 15-2 has a roll pin; later 15-2s may also have a screw but I'm not certain about that.
What you described was the OEM screw. Jake the gunsmith should have been able to remove it, clean the threads with a tap and install a new screw, IMO. Of course I didn't see the gun so that's just my opinion and not definitive. There are a tons of 'smiths out there who don't know Dan.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
August 26, 2017
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What he told me was the hole was at a slight angle. I know I spent at least 2 months trying to get the screw out. If the screw is OEM - it's a manufacture defect. To get it out the whole pistol had to be taken apart. If the screw is OEM and it is able to go past the threads and get stuck - that's a defect. It shouldn't be able to go that far in. To me the explanation I got makes a lot more sense. The previous smith whose estate I got it from made a mess.
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