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Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Unfortunately, many Auction site sellers will not ship outside the USA/lower 48. I didn't check this one, however.
Several months ago I helped out a Canadian DWF Member get a grip screw, no one would ship to Canada
This Gun Broker seller will ship internationally. I have one of these, it's quite well made, but would be more functional if the cross handle was a hex to fit the grip. This is a good seller, ships quickly.
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.asp?Item=132623928
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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Steve:
Take a closer look. Both ends of the cross handle are hex -- 2 different sizes. It should work for the whole gun.
-Mike
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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I'm not seeing it, either in the photo or on the one I bought. The one from blueirish on ebay is, but not this one from EWK on GB
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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Steve:
We're looking at different listings. The one I was talking about is listed by Cully Stolis on eBay. It's item #360166945525. When you look at the enlarged photos you can see that the cross-bar is hex and is tapers to a smaller hex at the right end.
For John, he states he will ship overseas in the listing.
-Mike
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Yep, different listings.
I rarely look at his listings, but it's a +++ on his part that he will ship internationally.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
June 3, 2009
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Hi folks,
John from Adelaide here. Took the Model 15 to the range yesterday, shot 300 rounds double action through it, and have to say, that the first 50 or so rounds were excellent.
HOWEVER, as the day wore on, and the shots fired increased, the double action became more and more frustrating. Initially one, then two of the cylinders became increasingly difficult to cycle in double action - By the end of 200 rounds, it was almost impossible to more to the next live round and fire - the trigger felt locked up, but only on two or 3 of the chambers. The other 3 to 4 (seemed to vary a little) were fine and remained unchanged across the days shooting.
I was able to manually assist in turning the cylinder to get to the next live round, but it was difficult - could feel the resistance.
Around about 200 rounds, I also began experiencing trigger failure to return - not on every occassion, but randomly - sometimes 3 times out of 6, sometimes 2, sometimes 1. Drove me mad, as I had, up to that point, had a ball with the revolver and was very pleased with accuracy.
Before I noticed the increased resistance too much, I was starting to get fliers on the target - shots being high and to the left ( by 8" at 20 yards) which was quite out of character for me. As the resistance got worse, the fliers also got worse.
Ignoring the trigger failing to return for now, the lock up or huge resistance seems to be from the same two or three cylinders.
ANY THOUGHTS ON THE PROBLEM< POSSIBLE SOLUTION???
As for the trigger, I presumed that the teflon powder was not a good enough lubricant, and intend using teflon oil based lubricant next time.
Since returniing home, I have stripped the action, cleaned and lubed the crane and cylinder ONLY to see if that makes a difference. There is still resistance on two of the cylinders although less than when locked up at the range.
I wold be grateful for any information of suggetsions you guys may have - got me stumped, but am hoping you older hands with DW may have the answers.
RegardsJohn
Model 15-2V 6" Blued
April 25, 2008
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First thing to check is the barrel/cylinder gap. If it is too tight, as shooting gunk builds on the cylinder, or as the gun heats up, the gap "closes". Basically, the face of the cylinder starts rubbing on the back of the barrel. Dan Wessons are notorious for having cylinder faces that aren't square. Find the tightest cylinder hole, and set the b/c gap to that one.
The Savantist
February 2, 2009
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The next thing to check is the trigger group area. Take off the side plate and insure that the trigger area is clean of the same gunk that binds the cylinders. Thoroughly clean the area with break free or carb cleaner and lube with a good gun oil or auto trans fluid, a very light lube to all moving surfaces. I've fired over 500 rounds through a model 15 in a single day with no bind or trigger problem. The binding would also cause the fliers as it doesn't allow the barrel cylinder gap to align as tight as it should.
June 3, 2009
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Thanks guys,
cleaned then measured all 6 cylinders with a feeler gauge and the distance was .005 for 3 of them, .004 for one, and .003 for the remaining two.
I used a very fine wet and dry emery paper laid over a milled flat edge and removed the scrape marks on the high points only. I then closed the cylinder, rotated and dry fired twice on each cylinder, and then opened and reviewed the scrapes on the face of the cylinder - again I gently removed the scrapes and so on - Aftr 2 hours of very slow and fine removal of the high points, the revolver now cycles in a very uniform feel - can no longer tell which were the ones that locked up.
Interestingly I noticed that even after this high spot removal, there is a constant friction noise when rotating the cylinder with the bottom locking lug disengaged (trigger part pulled rearward), no matter what gap I have (currently set at .005 for all 6 cylinders).
I removed the side plate and backed the ball bearing pressure spring off by 1/2 a turn, and this made the double action trigger lighter and the friction noise slightly softer.
That's the only thing I have done so far - will spend a bit of time over the coming days removing lead, carbon etc, and retest over the weekend.
A part of my problem was using coated lead porjectiles, and running them a bit fast - a lot of buildup for no real gain, since I am only shooting paper.
Will be slowing the projectiles down to 1100fps and putting a few hundred through again to see what difference.
Thanks to all for their advice and assistance.
Regards
John
Model 15-2V 6" Blued
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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You are doing a great job of tuning your revolver. There were production variances in the cylinders that resulted in b/c gap variances, which you seem to have resolved. Lead will always be messier than jacketed, and as you noted, higher velocity creates more lead problems. Since you have evened out your b/c gap all the way around the cylinder, you can try tightening up the gap, and may pick up some accuracy. Thanks for sharing your experience
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
June 3, 2009
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A further update on the tuning job of the Model 15 - I have backed out the trigger travel stop screw a full turn and a half (behind trigger, hits frame and prevents trigger overtravel). Trigger was actually bottoming out on the trigger guard, not the stop. That should fix the tendency for the trigger to not return when dirty - made a difference of an 1/8" to overall travel AND has reduced the tendency to slam home against the frame when fired double action - if I didnt hold tight enough in double action, the muzzle end tended to move down and to the left (left handed) when the trigger would let go, particularly before I evened out the cylinder to barrel gap.
As there is now significantly less travel, there is less time for the trigger finger and the trigger to "speed up" before hitting the trigger guard or the trigger stop.
Now to the very busy part of the last day or two - the gap between cylinder andbarrel: After spending all that time as reported yesterday getting the cylinder so that it travelled reasonably uniformly, I gave everything a very thorough clean with a brass brish and B1 solvent, lightly lubed with tri-flow teflon oil, and held the cylinder next to my ear and dry fired - I was clearly able to hear a difference in noise upon rotation of two of the chambers, and a slight increase in resistance to rotation / resistance to trigger movement on the same two chambers.
So I sat and looked at it for a while - then decided to try different thickness feeler gauges in the gap to see what it showed me. Putting .005" feeler gauge between cylinder and barrel, loosely supported but certainly not held by me, I worked the trigger - surprise surprise - the two cylinders which had been noisy locked up, and I was unable to removed the feeler gauge without an unreasonable amount of force.
Not being sure of how much pressure was "Usual", I dropped back down to .002" and redid the experiment - this time, as I rotated the cylinder using the trigger, I watched closely to see if the feeler gauge got "pulled in" towards the barrel by the rotation of the cylinder. On two of the chambers, this is exacxtly what happended.
I then opened the action, and gently polished the high spots off using a very fine grit wet and dry emery. This I repeated until the .002 gap no longer wanted to be pulled into the action upon cycling the action / rotating the cylinder. With the .002 gauge still in place, I then fully worked the trigger, held it back to the rear of the trigger guard once trigger down, and pulled the feeler gauge in each position. The gauge was able to be removed relatively readily, although firmly, and felt as though the pressure from the ball bearing was partially responsible for the felt pressure.
I then went to .003" and repeated the exercise - this time, the .003 feeler gauge was pulled into the action on 3 of the chambers. Following the same procedure as above, I removed material until the .003" gauge remained in place without being pulled into the action when all 6 chambers were rotated using the trigger.
Again I retested at full lockup using the .003 gauge, and again it felt quite firm, but much more even that before.
Finally, I used a .004 feeler gauge and redid the entire exercise - this time I had bearing on 4 of the 6 cylinders, with the cycling action of the cylinder pulling the feeler gauge into the action. Removing material as before, I got it to the point where the .004 gauge no longer pulled into the gap, and the removal of it under full lock up (trigger held back after hammer release) was uniform and firm, but felt " about right".
The final test was to use a .005 feeler gauge inserted between cylinder and barrel, and to cycle the revolver using th trigger mechanism in double action. Yahoooooo - the feeler gauge was pulled into the gap between barrel and cylinder EVERY time I cycled the action via the trigger.
According to my way of thinking, I have got the cylinder pretty close to right in terms of being at right angles to the face of the barrel.
The final test - I recleaned, reoiled with a thin smear of teflon oil, wiped it clean and held the cylinder to my ear as I cycled the action - sounded pretty much the same on each chamber, felt about the same on each chamber, so I'm reasonable happy with that.
A question for you long term owners of DWs - what gap settings do you use for your revolvers, and does the action pull the feeler gauge in if you cycle the trigger at that adjustment - as I have described above.
Sorry this is abot long winded, but I'm keen to understand the experienced hands version of tightness, and find that pulling a gauge out is much more variable than leaving one sit there, and cycling the machine.
Any information gratefully appreciated, and thanks to all you folk who have been so helpful. This is a great forum.
John, Adelaide
Model 15-2V 6" Blued
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Moderators
January 24, 2009
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John, that sounds like you've definitely gotten that cylinder trued up as much as possible. Now you've gotten me curious as to how much runout I may have on some of my cylinders...gonna have to check them out now.
What did you end up setting your final barrel gap to?
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