Register
Log In
Home
June 2, 2015
Offline
I have a Model 14(-1?) that I picked up used several years back that came with a 4" barrel. It is a porkchop model. Last year I grabbed a 6" assembly off of ebay, but didn't do anything with it for some time as I haven't been out shooting at all, life has been in the way. Finally got around to trying to swap out the assemblies, and ran into an issue where I couldn't get the cylinder closed. When I looked carefully I realized the groove in the shroud for the extractor rod on the 6" assembly is considerably shorter and the shroud that came with the pistol. Both shrouds have the same roll markings as far as I can tell. The six inch does have a much higher front sight, but I assumed that it was just from a model 15 instead. Anyone know what the shroud I have may actually go to?
Side question, what are these pistols supposed to be zeroed at, mine shoots about 1-1.5" high at ten yards, would I possibly be able to swap out the sight blades and have that help my 4"?
June 2, 2015
Offline
Anyone have any ideas? See if I can load a pic from my phone.
DWF Supporters
February 25, 2014
Offline
You sir have the same issue I had a while back. You have a 14-1, mostly the same as a 14-2 except the -2 is not a porkchop shroud. Your 6 inch barrel is from a 15 no dash hence the higher front sight and the short ejector rod slot. You can either try to find the early rod ( no button on the end and shorter), or you can open up the slot enough for the newer longer rod to fit. I looked for the short ejector rod and had no luck, so I opened the slot. You can buy a conversion front sight from EWK that should get you close or you can do what I did and cut down the tall sight to suit whatever load and range you like. Good luck to you, It's not that much work to do those things, and the results are worth the effort.
June 2, 2015
Offline
Is this an issue unique to the 14-1?
DWF Supporters
February 25, 2014
Offline
It affect both the 14-1 and the 15-1. On no dash 14, the rear sight is dove tailed into the frame. In the -1, it is a notch cut into the frame, making it lower and requiring a shorter front sight. On the 15s ( adjustable rear sight), the -1 has a shorter rear and therefore front sight. The ejector rod changed on both at the same time, same shroud just different front sight. I don't know exactly when this happened. I assume when the no dash changed to the -1 for both the 14s and 15s, but it could have been earlier.
June 2, 2015
Offline
Interesting, as my father has a model 15-1 (assuming). It's a pork chop with a higher serial number than mine but it has a short ejector rod/shrouds compared to mine. I'll have to consider finding someone to mill out the groove as the shroud already has some bad blueing issues on the opposite side. If I can get both properly sighted in and functioning I want to send everything off to get re finished and make them look nice, it shoots beautifully.
Supporter
Dans Club
March 25, 2013
Offline
Bob, you could shorten the ejector rod. Much easier. To have the milling done to the shroud and have it reblue would be money you would never recoup on a gun worth $450 at maximum. The Dan Wesson way would be to buy a 15 with a 33/4" barrel and have the first two Dans in your collection. Another possibility is to find the right ejector rod on eBay.
The change from 14 to the unofficial model 14-1 happened at serial number 25,000 approximately. DW used up the shorter ejector rods though so some later than 25,000 may have been shorter. Waste not want not. There were approx. 10,000 models 11 and 12. A few of them near 10,000 had recessed barrel nuts. From 25,000 to 50,000 we call them -1s. 14-2s and15-2s were first sold sometime in 1974 but the also kept selling the -1s for a short while.
Dan Wesson sold their remaining porkchops to High Standard and they were roll marked Sentinel MK 11 and MK 111s. There were no extra barrel assemblies though for High Standards. DW -1s BAs are the same though.
December 3, 2015
Offline
I had this issue with a High Standard. As OleDog said the High Standards are equivalent to the DW 14-1 & 15-1 First thing I discovered is that there was apparently two styles of ejection rods. One had a mushroom shaped head ( conical ) and the other had a round head. I actually possessed one of each. I think I have seen some just knurled with no head at all. I could be mistaken on the knurled variant. I thought at the time that this was the issue as I was using a DW shroud on the High Standard. I remain unsure if that was in fact the case. However, the easy fix to gain the clearance needed was to simply add a couple of threads on the threaded end of the rod. There is enough clearance where it threads into the ejection star to allow the rod the ability to thread just a tad more deeply into the star. This will give you the clearance you need between the shroud and the ejection rod end. The added threads are needed to allow this. It does not take much to get the clearance you need. The rod as it is hits and stops threading into the star at the shoulder where the threads end. If you simply shorten the rod it will still stop threading at the same place . ( where the threads end ). You would still have to use a die to add a couple of threads. No need to shorten the rod because there is enough clearance for the rod to extend further into the threaded portion of the star assembly. There was on mine.
I cannot remember the thread count / pitch but I am sure someone here can supply the needed information.
I believe I described this procedure in one or two other threads on the subject as well. If what I have typed above is confusing one of the other threads may explain it differently.
Good luck
1 Guest(s)
