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June 19, 2012
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As my ID suggests, I own a pistol pac and am considering selling it. Before I go down that road though, I have an issue that needs to be resolved.
When I shoot either 38 special or 357 Mag ammo, the spent cases expand inside the cylinder and will not eject. I should say that they will move out about 3/16" with the ejector rod, and then they are jammed. They are sooo tight that I have had to use a pair of plyers to grab the rim of the spent brass and twist and pull to get them out. Doesn't seem to matter what kind of ammo.
I have already used my cleaning brush and scrubbed the inside of each chamber, thinking that a lip of crud or lead might be holding the 357 ammo, but if that was the reason, why would the 38 special, (shorter) get stuck also.? And BTW, it didn't seem to help. The last time I went out to shoot it, they got stuck.
So, what is the problem/issue, and what is the solution?
Once I can be sure I have a properly functioning firearm, I'll post the pictures, ask for a resale value, and take offers.
One thing, I'm kind of worried about though?, I live in CA. What must I do to legally transfer ownership? Do you use a FFL dealer in your auctions/sales? I think I have to do that in CA.
Scott
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Scott, Welcome to DWF. I suspect a very substantially fouled and dirty cylinder. I had one of these on a used DW I bought, which would not chamber .357 Mag under any circumstances. Even with .38 Spl, the "crud ring" is getting deeper into the chambers and making it difficult for the shorter cartridges to chamber
My solution was to chuck a .40 cal bore brush into my cordless drill, soak the brush down well with bore cleaner, and scrub thoroughly through each chamber. Use a slower speed and scrub slowly, but fully, through back to front without backing out, on each chamber. Keep the brush wet and just keep scrubbing. It's a messy job but this should solve your problem.
BTW-Better way to get the brass out is to insert a dowel through the front of the chamber and tap the empty casing out. Grabbing the rim and "yanking and twisting" is pretty much roughing up the built up crud in your chambers, and helping it to grab on to your fired cartridge cases even more firmly.
I can't speak to legality of sales/transfers in CA. If you are shipping a handgun to a buyer, it pretty much needs an FFL at both ends. If you are doing a Face To Face, local regulations prevail. In CT I can get a State authorization to transfer to another CT Permit holder. My belief is that if you are selling across any state lines, you need FFL's involved.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
January 1, 2012
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Scott,
Without going through an FFL, you can only transfer a firearm to your child, grandchild, parent, grandparent, spouse or domestic partner (this is CA). Any other must be through a CA licensed firearms dealer.
This is the CA DOJ FAQ site:
http://oag.ca.gov/firearms/pubfaqs#6
Any out of state transfer must go through an FFL.
here is the BATF FAQ link
http://www.atf.gov/firearms/faq/unlicensed-persons.html#gca-unlicensed-transfer
"My mama said, you and Elvis are pretty good, but you're no Chuck Berry" Jerry Lee Lewis.
February 3, 2012
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pistolpackforsale said:
As my ID suggests, I own a pistol pac and am considering selling it. Before I go down that road though, I have an issue that needs to be resolved.
When I shoot either 38 special or 357 Mag ammo, the spent cases expand inside the cylinder and will not eject. I should say that they will move out about 3/16" with the ejector rod, and then they are jammed. They are sooo tight that I have had to use a pair of plyers to grab the rim of the spent brass and twist and pull to get them out. Doesn't seem to matter what kind of ammo.
I have already used my cleaning brush and scrubbed the inside of each chamber, thinking that a lip of crud or lead might be holding the 357 ammo, but if that was the reason, why would the 38 special, (shorter) get stuck also.? And BTW, it didn't seem to help. The last time I went out to shoot it, they got stuck.
So, what is the problem/issue, and what is the solution?
Once I can be sure I have a properly functioning firearm, I'll post the pictures, ask for a resale value, and take offers.
One thing, I'm kind of worried about though?, I live in CA. What must I do to legally transfer ownership? Do you use a FFL dealer in your auctions/sales? I think I have to do that in CA.
Scott
Try backing down on the powder!!
Ex Navy retired deep vain coal-disable- NRA- Blue Lodge
June 19, 2012
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Steve CT said:
My solution was to chuck a .40 cal bore brush into my cordless drill, soak the brush down well with bore cleaner, and scrub thoroughly through each chamber.
So, you use a .40 cal brush as opposed to the .357?? Just checking that I want the larger brush?
I'll give it a try. shouldn't I be able to see this crud?
Scott
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Maybe not. If there is an even coating of powder/lead buildup, maybe you don't see it. A thorough scrubbing (mine took 1-2 minutes per chamber) will at least remove this as a possibility.
It seems very unlikely that you have six undersized chambers, more likely that you have years of indifferent care and cleaning.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
April 15, 2011
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Yes, this sounds like very fouled cylinders. When cleaning cylinders I generally soak a .45 cal. brass brush in Hoppes #9 and clean the cylinders with it. Then I follow up with patches until they come out white. I am always surprised at how much crud is in the cylinders. I am sure that is the OP's problem. 
The difference between a citizen and a civilian is that the citizen makes the safety of the body politic his personal responsibility. The civilian does not.
COTEP 545 -- PM7-45; 15-2 .357
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
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pistolpackforsale said:
So, you use a .40 cal brush as opposed to the .357?? Just checking that I want the larger brush?
Steve is suggesting a .40 cal brush because the holes in the cylinder are larger than the hole in the barrel. When you scrub the cylinder bores with a .357 brush, it only has light contact with the sides of each hole...a .40 cal brush is larger diameter & will more effectively scrub the cylinder bores in a shorter time. BTW, only use a brass brush, no stainless steel brushes.
Are you shooting factory loaded ammo, or your own reloads?
June 19, 2012
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Thank you for the explanation. I shoot factory ammo. Never got into reloading.
Scott
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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BTW, just to clarify, you can scrub fully through the chamber and then pull it back thru, still scrubbing. It's just a bad idea to stop midway in the chamber (or barrel) and back out. Make the full pass in each direction, evenly and consistently.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
February 17, 2010
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I bought a 744 that had alot of 44 Specials shot in it. After going through the above mentioned cleaning regimine I used a 45 cal mop with some Flitz on it and polished the chambers. I can eject empties now with one finger. Even my hunting loads.
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