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December 22, 2009
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I am looking for some disassembly instructions for a 744 (Monson). The disassembly instructions that are linked to this website show the procedure for a gun with a sideplate and two (2) sideplate screws. I have not been able to find any instructions which detail the disassembly of a 744 with no sideplate or side screws. I am assuming that I will have to remove the mainspring and the mainspring guide before I can remove the hammer and trigger assembly but I am concerned that I am going to get in over my head without some kind of instructions. Could anybody here provide some guidance? Thanks
October 26, 2008
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you don't have to remove the mainspring or the guide. Once you have the grip off there is an allen head screw on the right side of the frame, take that screw out, cock the hammer, screw that small screw in where the grip screw goes (it holds the mainspring). decock the gun, you will have to at minimum screw the elevation screw all the way up, if not actually take the rear sight off. to remove the hammer, pull the trigger back just a little bit and knock out the pin to the right, pull the trigger all the way back and hold it there, lift the hammer out. then flip the gun upside down and push the u shaped piece behind the trigger guard forward, pull the rear part of the trigger guard down notice the notch in the front that it rocks into and remove the entire bottom piece that holds the trigger, hand and transfer bar (pay attention to the way the transfer bar is attached to the hand, it likes to fall off and the spring is delicate) then there is a u shaped piece up in the frame that holds the cylinder in the frame (it's in front of the cylinder bolt (stop) you will want something like a dental pick to get it out if it's tight) and remove the cylinder yoke, look at how they have the cylinder stop placed in there before you take the cylinder yoke assembly out. that's all there is to it, it sounds harder than it is.
superdan
Reassembly tip: when trying to get the trigger assembly back in the frame, pull the trigger and hold it all the way back, get the hand in place in the frame, and from the top use a screwdriver to rock the transfer bar into the guide in the frame as you slowly let the back of the trigger guard down until the bar goes forward into the notch, then rock the trigger guard into the notch on the front and latch it in the rear. you should be able to pull the trigger and rotate the cylinder and have the transfer bar come up into place, if it doesn't do that it's not together correctly. it does take some time to get it your first time, this is the hardest part of working on the large frames.
October 26, 2008
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just wanted to add welcome
to the forum
. stop in to the new members area and feel free to tell us a little about yourself and of course drop a couple pictures of your .44
we are always in for a good pix fix
superdan
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January 24, 2009
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That's a darn good tutorial, Superdan! One of these days, somebody's gonna have to do that...with pics.
Dbothe57, here's a copy of the instruction manual, in case this will help add to what Superdan's said...
/wp-content/uploads/large-frame-manual.pdf
to the forum. Show that baby off, if you can!
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November 17, 2008
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Ditto on the tutorial. Good Job!
I looked at the instruction manual and low and behold the parts breakdown exploded drawing is correct for the large frames but the accompanying parts list is for the small frame. Go figure 
.
LB
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
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January 24, 2009
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lbruce said:
I looked at the instruction manual and low and behold the parts breakdown exploded drawing is correct for the large frames but the accompanying parts list is for the small frame. Go figure
.
LB
HAH! I didn't notice that.
December 22, 2009
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Thanks for all the replies. Got it disassembled, cleaned and put back together successfully. Maybe I'll take some pics and post them when I break it down again. Still had a little bit of trouble sliding the hammer in and out though. Should be a lot easier next time. Now, if I could only find a 4″ barrel for it…
October 1, 2009
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I will try to talk superdan into disassembling a large frame DW at christmas with me taking the pictures, but he goes so fast that I will need a high speed camera to keep up with the procedure! 
I'M not sure he can go slow enough for me to get a high quality disassembly post.....
maybe I'll have his mom 
slow him down!!
Range Officer
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February 9, 2009
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Great topic. I have a 44 that needs trigger help, badly
A man cannot have too many SuperMags
June 5, 2008
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My 744 is just perfect, but I would love to know how to break one down like I can my small frame guns.
Had my new Excel Arms Excelerator 22 WMR automatic pistol out this week with my 722 VH8 and it was close but the 722 won the day. But the whole thing was pretty much because of the far better trigger on the 722 over the Excelerator and a "two stage" trigger. I am going to have to pull it down after the holidays and see what can be done to help it, without any major work.
[Image Can Not Be Found]
Both guns have a 2×7x32 scope and were using same ammo, but the DW's also fit my hand just perfect. None of my S&W's, Ruger's or 1911's feel as right in my hands as the DW's do for what ever reason.
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May 2, 2009
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nice looking guns--the only Semi I have that outshoots my revolvers is the HS semi 22... she's a tack driver. Maybe someday I'll do a tutorial on the large frame action--unless someone beats me to it 😉
SHOOT
June 5, 2008
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I did a direct buy with S&W for active duty & retired military for a S&W Model 41 7" barrel this week for $772.20 and hope to have by mid February. So maybe I will have a pistol to out shoot my DW, but I am not holding my breath. I have two 22 WMR Lever Action rifles, Marlin 1894 (3/8" group) and Ruger 96 (1 " ) groups and the DW does about 3/4" groups with VH8 barrel.
I would say that if the Ruger had a trigger as good as the Marlin or DW, it would be better and should be able to do sub inch group. But as it is it has so much creep and over travel to go with a 7 or 8 pound trigger that I consider it pretty good for what it has been stuck with for sure, the Marlin has a 3lb trigger and no creep or over travel. I hate to mess with the Ruger's trigger because it has no replacement parts available from Ruger or so Ruger told me when I called about replacement parts. But I may go ahead and send it to a pretty well know Ruger gun smith for the work, because the gun is an ideal woods hunting gun because of light weight and 18" barrel. Speaking of light weight of the Ruger, I bet the 722 VH8 tips the scales a bit more then the Ruger.
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January 22, 2008
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Waldo those Rugers are pretty neat little guns. My uncle is putting together a set of them (96/44, 96/17, 96/22M) and only needs the 96/22 to complete it.
I read an article somewhere about tips to make them more accurate and the biggest was the barrel band. Apparently it was putting pressure on the barrel. The author removed part of the band that touched the barrel and accuracy increased.
Well just found the article.
June 5, 2008
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Another problem is the barrel V-block, I found that the V-block with a better grade of screws and a set screw to snug up bluck once the screws are properly torqued really helped and I also used some blue Locktight. But it was not enough, will look into the BB issue again in the spring when it warms up some and not raining or snowing.
All that said a model 96 will never shoot with a 1894 as long as it has a Ruger barrel & trigger.
Also I do have the 17 HMR barrel and would love to find a nice 96/44 for $400 range, I know dream on. But I bet that thing might be a little rough shooting being as light as it is, but not much worse then my Marlin '94P a 16.25" ported barrel wonder gun.
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March 19, 2010
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I have a quick question I was hoping someone could help me out with - how far do I need to screw that little allen head screw into where the grip handle screw goes? Thanks.
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January 24, 2009
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1911A1 said:
I have a quick question I was hoping someone could help me out with – how far do I need to screw that little allen head screw into where the grip handle screw goes? Thanks.
To help save the threads on the screw from wear, I pull down on the hammer while I finger tighten the screw. Once it bottoms out, I stop turning & back it off a half turn or so. I mostly do this so I have a little slack, in case the screw tries to bind from spring pressure.
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