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January 24, 2009
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SHOOTIST357 said:
OK, here's a pic of my 40. Charger--look at the difference in the cylinder under the star...mine only has two slots cut in the rear face. How many does yours have?
Do both your 40's look the same, Shoot?
Here's mine...
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Range Officer
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May 2, 2009
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yep, both of mine are the same-- only 2 slots in them.
SHOOT
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January 24, 2009
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Interesting. Are the s/n's real close to each other?
Mine is 003925, BTW.
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May 2, 2009
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Mine are 001212 and 001363... Hard to get them closer than that!
I thought yours would have the earlier serial numbers-- I figured 2 cuts was a cheaper way to produce them.
Mine are both Monson BTW.
SHOOT
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January 24, 2009
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Mine's a Monson too.
Two cuts would have certainly been cheaper & easier, but I guess they ran into some performance snag somewhere along the line, so the cylinders evolved later on.
That's cool that yours are so close on the s/n's.
October 26, 2008
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the Norwich ejector rod/star is a hexagonal (bolt) shaped rod, not the round with a slot in it so getting one from them will require replacing the entire cylinder assembly. As for the star coming off, no this is not supposed to happen and it can be fixed by putting the star on the rod and aligning it properly (it should have a peen mark from the factory) and using the loctite cylindrical bonding formula. after that dries use a center punch (or something thats hardened and has an angle on it) to peen the material out so that it will stay on there, then carefully remove the extra material that is on the star from the peening process (just enough to make sure that it is flat)
November 30, 2009
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Superdan, This all makes sense...cylindrical bonding formula? Is that a special kind of loctite? As far as the center punch, you think a nail punch would work? thanks for this great info!!
BTW my Monson made 740 has a S#2100, with the star slot shape.
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January 24, 2009
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superdan said:
the Norwich ejector rod/star is a hexagonal (bolt) shaped rod, not the round with a slot in it so getting one from them will require replacing the entire cylinder assembly.
Ahh, that definitely explains why they don't have these particular parts available for the older ones, then. That's good to know.
Kevenn, you could try a nail punch, but I have a feeling it won't work well. These gun parts are hardened steel, so you'll probably need a hardened punch.
November 30, 2009
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Superdan everything worked great!! I did find some Loctite (thread locker) at Menards and used a little of that, then lightly tapped the star as far as it would go then let it cure. I then peended the end with a punch (took my time deliberately not to bend the rod) and finished by sanding the high spots with an orbital sander with black metal sandpaper.
I would still like to replace the ejector rod since it is a little bent. Anybody verify if it unscrews? I'm not sure how else I would replace it. I'll probably keep my eye out for the whole extractor assembly just for backup. Thanks for everyones' help, great website!
October 26, 2008
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yes the ejector rod unscrews, put the rod itself in a vise (use some leather or at least a rag so you don't scratch it), put some empty shells (2 at least 3 preferably in opposing chambers to support the ejector) and turn the cylinder counter clockwise. its on their pretty tight so don't be afraid to crank the vise up tight so the rod doesn't spin, that's why you have the leather.
October 1, 2009
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It's to late , but the locktite superdan is talking about is #609, or# 680, I think.
October 26, 2008
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thank you dad I couldn't remember the number but i remembered what it was maybe it's young timers disease (the younger version of old timers).
November 30, 2009
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Superdan, I did see other posts explaining unscrewing the rod. My concern is putting the empty casings in and turning the cylinder...doesn't that put all the stress on my newly glued/peened star extractor job you told me how to do? I'm affraid it might not hold up.
thanks again!
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May 2, 2009
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kevenn said:
Superdan, I did see other posts explaining unscrewing the rod. My concern is putting the empty casings in and turning the cylinder...doesn't that put all the stress on my newly glued/peened star extractor job you told me how to do? I'm affraid it might not hold up.
thanks again!
Your initial pics of the spline is exactly why I said not to attempt an unscrew. Normally you put the empty shell casings in to lock the star in place and support it evenly while you break the rod loose. With that fine spline on the star I will not attempt to unscrew my 40 unless absolutely neccessary.
SHOOT
October 26, 2008
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the rod that the star is peened on has a notch milled into it that aligns with a piece on the cylinder that will support it plenty, along with the alignment pieces on the bottom of the star, the brass is there just make sure that those pieces don't break off. your other choice is to use a pair of vise grips (put a rag between the jaws and the extractor rod) to try to hold the extractor rod but you'd have to be really careful not to crush the metal down into that notch, if you did do that the extractor would probably not go back in the cylinder without cleaning up that notch. hope this helps.
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