January 3, 2020
I have a problem when firing my 15-2, like 1 in every 6 round fails to go off. The firing pin strikes at the side of the primer but I can't find the source if the problem.
I loaded the revolver with fired cases and tried 100 times without spotting any errors, it just happens when I fire live rounds.
Anyone that have experienced this problem?
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
First task- identify if it's the same chamber every time. When you have a misfire, mark that chamber with white-out or something.
if not a specific chamber, then tighten the grip screw a wee-bit to see if that helps
if that doesn't help, turn the aligning ball screw in just a bit
if that doesn't help, check for end shake and shim if necessary
then, if that doesn't work- buy new springs.
** Be sure to drop by the new member topic and introduce yourself. I normally don't reply to a first post if it's not in that topic but tonight I've had rum... **
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
January 3, 2020
rwsem said
First task- identify if it's the same chamber every time. When you have a misfire, mark that chamber with white-out or something.if not a specific chamber, then tighten the grip screw a wee-bit to see if that helps
if that doesn't help, turn the aligning ball screw in just a bit
if that doesn't help, check for end shake and shim if necessary
then, if that doesn't work- buy new springs.
** Be sure to drop by the new member topic and introduce yourself. I normally don't reply to a first post if it's not in that topic but tonight I've had rum... **
Thanks for the reply. I took the gun to the range today and I think it is the hand that doesn't quite push the cylinder in the correct position every time, it is a little bit worn I think. It did not lock the cylinder every time. Might be a little difficult to find a new hand and get it shipped to Sweden but I will try.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
Try cleaning the inside- the Average Joe thread will help you navigate the how-to. It may be a bit gummed up in the bolt spring area and, of course, the new springs may help as well. Hands don't wear out too often.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
October 17, 2017
The classic test for timing issues is to pull the hammer back very slowly checking to see if the cylinder locks in place before the hammer reaches full cock position. From what you've described I'm guessing your revolver would fail on most if not all chambers. While it's true that a DW hand seldom wears to the point of causing problems, it can happen. I recently had to replace the hand on a newly acquired 15-1. I corrected the malfunctioning part that was causing the problem, but the hand was already damaged, so I had to replace it. It does take some time and skill to fit a new hand, and you might want to have a gunsmith do the work for you. If you get a used hand, the fitting may have already been done, but you will need to check the timing as described above to be sure it is working properly in your DW. In the meantime try ratcheting the hammer back rather briskly when shooting it. This usually creates enough momentum to spin the cylinder into lock up even if the timing is off a bit, but beware, this is not a cure for the problem you're having with your revolver. It needs to be properly diagnosed and repaired!! Good luck!
August 8, 2016
rwsem said
First task- identify if it's the same chamber every time. When you have a misfire, mark that chamber with white-out or something.if not a specific chamber, then tighten the grip screw a wee-bit to see if that helps
if that doesn't help, turn the aligning ball screw in just a bit
if that doesn't help, check for end shake and shim if necessary
then, if that doesn't work- buy new springs.
** Be sure to drop by the new member topic and introduce yourself. I normally don't reply to a first post if it's not in that topic but tonight I've had rum... **
I’ve been reading about the aligning ball screw lately since I started getting light strikes in DA again with my Monson 715. The cylinder has been shimmed already but I wonder if it needs thicker shims.
Anyway, I noticed the aligning ball screw is 1-2 turns OUT of the frame. I read that it should flush with the frame? Is this correct?
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
October 17, 2017
Provided the alignment ball spring is not damaged, or replaced with an incorrect one, turning the set screw flush with the frame should be adequate.
Light strikes in double action shooting is usually an indicator of a main spring that is too light. Single action shooting gives the hammer a longer travel, so light strikes are seldom a problem. While I admit that lighter springs are easier to control, you run the risk of this happening in double action shooting.
The Wolfe spring kits come in two strengths as I recall; go with the heavier one. This may take care of the problem, but I'm still a little concerned about the possible alignment issue.
Personally, I never shoot my DW double action. First; I like to hit what I'm aiming at. Second; I like to hit what I'm aiming at.
Lastly; I had a very good friend (since passed away) who regularly competed in bowling pin competitions with his Colt Python going up against fellow competitors using 1911's. He usually beat them. And he always fired single action!!
August 8, 2016
Andrew1220 said
I’ve been reading about the aligning ball screw lately since I started getting light strikes in DA again with my Monson 715. The cylinder has been shimmed already but I wonder if it needs thicker shims.
Anyway, I noticed the aligning ball screw is 1-2 turns OUT of the frame. I read that it should flush with the frame? Is this correct?
I tightened up the alignment ball screw which did nothing. In fact I think it made it slightly worse.
I just ordered some 9lb springs from DW to see if that will fix the problem. $12 shipping!!
Mine has the 8lb wolf spring in it now.
I like shooting DA to make things more challenging for myself. Shooting my 8" steel plate at 120 yards gets boring with my scoped 715 so shooting DA changes things up.
October 17, 2017
Seems to me we're getting a bit off topic here. This poor gent was having timing issues to the point that the firing pin would hit so far off to the side that it would fail to ignite the primer. Best thing really, because if it ignited that for out of alignment it would definitely shave lead at the very least, and at the worst could cause damage to the revolver. Makes me wonder what percentage of the chambers were anywhere close to being properly aligned. Replacing the hand may help, but it doesn't explain why one chamber is worse than another. Unless you guys have any further input, we'll just have to wait and see if he replaces the hand, and if it cures the problem or not.
BTW, I always shoot open sights, standing. Never gets boring. Just my 2 cents.
Hope the heavier springs help!
June 13, 2022
3ric said
Seems to me we're getting a bit off topic here. This poor gent was having timing issues to the point that the firing pin would hit so far off to the side that it would fail to ignite the primer. Best thing really, because if it ignited that for out of alignment it would definitely shave lead at the very least, and at the worst could cause damage to the revolver. Makes me wonder what percentage of the chambers were anywhere close to being properly aligned. Replacing the hand may help, but it doesn't explain why one chamber is worse than another. Unless you guys have any further input, we'll just have to wait and see if he replaces the hand, and if it cures the problem or not.
BTW, I always shoot open sights, standing. Never gets boring. Just my 2 cents.
Hope the heavier springs help!
I think I have the problem you’re talking about
October 17, 2017
Yes, you certainly do. First thing to check is that the side plate is fully seated (flush), and that the screws are snug. If that checks ok, then pull the side plate and have a look at the hand to check for damage. This is very rare, but it can happen. Does the cylinder rotate freely, or does it bind?
June 13, 2022
3ric said
Yes, you certainly do. First thing to check is that the side plate is fully seated (flush), and that the screws are snug. If that checks ok, then pull the side plate and have a look at the hand to check for damage. This is very rare, but it can happen. Does the cylinder rotate freely, or does it bind?
It rotates fine.
June 13, 2022
3ric said
Yes, you certainly do. First thing to check is that the side plate is fully seated (flush), and that the screws are snug. If that checks ok, then pull the side plate and have a look at the hand to check for damage. This is very rare, but it can happen. Does the cylinder rotate freely, or does it bind?
I’ll take a picture later, what am I looking for?
October 17, 2017
Once the side plate is removed you can easily remove the hand. It has a small wire spring holding it in the forward position, so simply slide it out of the way. One thing you have to understand about buying used DW’s is that they often have been adjusted by well meaning but uneducated owners who do not fully understand how these revolvers actually work. The hand is the heart of the DW. Proper fitting is imperative. Sometimes a replacement hand has been installed that was unintentionally ruined by a previous owner. Please give us some clear, focused images of the action with the side plate removed, and of the hand itself. Perhaps one of the experts here will notice something that is not correct.
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