October 17, 2017
Sorry, Jay, just noticed the earlier posts. You say that it fires every time; is that double action or single? The hand may need just a little filing if it is fitting too tightly when engaging the ratchet. That drag could account for the sluggish feel you described. This is difficult to diagnose without a hands on view. I would focus on getting the side plate to fit flush with the frame first, and proceed from there.
June 13, 2022
3ric said
Not sure, but more concerned about the gap between the frame and side plate. Check for burrs on both surfaces and file if necessary. You’ve said that the gun is clean, but check the tiny corners for caked on debris. If you do find something and get a tighter fit, the hand may start to bind, but hopefully not. Does the timing seem correct now? If so, maybe you don’t need to do anything more to it.
After posting the picture I noticed the gap, I’ll take a second look.
Timing is still off.
June 13, 2022
Ole Dog said
Jay, did you check to see if the frame pin that holds the hand is fully seated? Also, the trigger return spring may be slightly bowed out towards the sideplate. That could cause the hand to be not fully seated, causing that sluggish feeling.
I’ll take a look at that.
Dans Club
February 24, 2013
October 17, 2017
Once again, the photos don't seem to reveal much. I'm assuming the hand on the right is the new one? I've attached a photo of my 15-2 side plate. Not sure of what you may have for measuring purposes, but the depth of the hand recess in the side plate is .124 on mine. This should be fairly consistent for all small frame DW's. I do notice some machining marks in this area of your side plate, so it's possible someone tried to deepen this at some point in this revolver's history, which would be the WRONG thing to do, but only a careful measurement would reveal if this has been done. I doubt it actually, as it would require the use of an end mill which most of us do not have access to. The other possibility that I'm considering is that your side plate could be "bowed"; that is not flat when laid on a flat surface (like a granite counter top for example). If you find that it is indeed bowed I'm not sure how to advise you on how to straighten it. Hopefully another member can offer a "how to" if that ends up being the case. This is definitely a puzzling case for sure.
June 13, 2022
3ric said
Once again, the photos don't seem to reveal much. I'm assuming the hand on the right is the new one? I've attached a photo of my 15-2 side plate. Not sure of what you may have for measuring purposes, but the depth of the hand recess in the side plate is .124 on mine. This should be fairly consistent for all small frame DW's. I do notice some machining marks in this area of your side plate, so it's possible someone tried to deepen this at some point in this revolver's history, which would be the WRONG thing to do, but only a careful measurement would reveal if this has been done. I doubt it actually, as it would require the use of an end mill which most of us do not have access to. The other possibility that I'm considering is that your side plate could be "bowed"; that is not flat when laid on a flat surface (like a granite counter top for example). If you find that it is indeed bowed I'm not sure how to advise you on how to straighten it. Hopefully another member can offer a "how to" if that ends up being the case. This is definitely a puzzling case for sure.I’ll take another picture that’s not so over exposed and also measure the side plate. I also have a machined steel plate to check for true.
Supporter
Moderators
Dans Club
February 22, 2009
The wear on your side plate shows the handspring has been misplaced for a long time, based on the wear marks along the recessed cut. As I stated in post 30/33/34; reassemble, ensuring everything is put in its place and try it again. If you're certain that isn't it, take a picture of the star ejector so we can see the wear marks on it. The old hand doesn't look worn out and I doubt the ejector is but you never know...
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
I don't recall any of my guns having the striated milling marks on the inside of the sideplate. I wonder if they were done aftermarket. Very light polishing of those striations may help the action. Does the sideplate fit well on the outside? Is it flush with the frame? And please, please give that dry gun a drink of gun oil.
June 13, 2022
So, I removed the hand spring and reinstalled it because it didn’t look like it was seated correctly. It almost looked twisted on the mounting post. I also tightened the side plate screws to the almost uncomfortable point. At this point the guns timing is almost perfect when dry firing. I’m going to go to the range after work tomorrow to find out.🤞
Sideplate made before 1986 are very delicate. They break along the cylinder stop if forced in. It may be that the original sideplate broke and someone tried to fit another. They are rarely fungible. Sideplate are fitted before the frame is polished. It is very difficult to find one that fits right. Is there any difference in height of the outside of the sideplate and the adjoining frame? Gaps? I know I have asked already but did you tap the frame pin heads on the right side of the frame to make sure it is fully seated? Use a wood or plastic hammer.
1 Guest(s)