February 24, 2020
Got through one cylinder in single action mode without issue. Really like the accuracy. Wish I had brought some .38 special though. Even in this frame with the 6 inch barrel, it packs a kick with 357 mags. Going have take my k-frame Smith with 4 inch barrel and compare next time.
Second and subsequent cylinders in double action were problematic. Among issues cylinder lock up, inability to release cylinder, etc. Had one light strike. Ejecting cartridges was a struggle.
Thankfully brought a couple of tried and true 9s, the Taurus 1911 and older CZ 75b. Even a few rounds with the factory new Charter Arms Pathfinder.
First Dan Wesson Revolver - Model 15-2;
Walthers and CZs my favorites;
Gotta few Rugers, Smiths, RIAs as well
October 17, 2017
You'll have to be a bit more specific as to "Among issues cylinder lock up, inability to release cylinder". Example, did the cylinder not align completely (as in off center primer hits), or generally loose cylinder lock up? Was the cylinder release latch 'stiff', or did the cylinder bind upon opening?
As for light strikes in double action, welcome to the DW world. Replacing the springs might help. Also check for cylinder end shake.
As to difficult cartridge extraction, welcome to the DW world once again. I've always been amazed that Dan Wesson let some of these revolvers out the door with so many tool marks in the chambers. A good polishing will help.
Dan Wesson revolvers are far from perfect, but their inherent accuracy, plus the ability to change barrel lengths, (and also adjust the barrel/cylinder gap), as well as easy grip interchangeability makes them worth the extra effort to work around their idiosyncrasies.
August 20, 2019
Sorry to hear your "new" 15-2 is going to need a few adjustments but it's easy to work on them and get the bugs out. I had a few issues to work out on my 15-2 a few months ago when I bought it. When I tried to measure the B/C gap during pre- purchase inspection, I was unable to get any gauge in and there was no gap plus the seller had no wrench and had never had the barrel off. The DA trigger had a problem and the trigger wouldn't return every now and then but cosmetically it in was beautiful shape. He knocked a few bucks off, promised to order me a wrench and I figured I could fix the other issues. The first thing I did was come here for help which was a very good idea. The DA problem was the trigger return spring the seller(his first revolver) had installed himself. The failure of the trigger to return was corrected by backing the over travel screw out a bit. No more sticking. The first trip to the range the ejector rod kept unscrewing and was corrected with blue locktite. This could be part of your cylinder problem. The cylinder stop(little nub on the side plate) popped off while shooting but I found it and red locktite fixed that. I guess sometimes there's a reason someone's selling a gun. I really like my 15-2 and been problem free for quite a while now. It was frustrating sometimes but I learned a lot about the gun during all the tinkering and that's good. BTW, if you're having extracting problems, be careful not to hit the extractor rod to hard because the cylinder stop is pressed in, not part of the side plate. You can knock it out of the side plate if you're too rough on it. Good luck.
February 24, 2020
Your responses are appreciated.
I can describe what I experienced to some degree. After the first, flawless cylinder in SA mode, the second round into the second cylinder at DA mode, the trigger would not go back completely. I could turn the cylinder some, I believe to the left as you are looking down on the back (not positive). So I attempted to release the cylinder with the release. The release did not appear to move hardly at all. I think I had to turn the cylinder some and that allowed me to release the cylinder. After opening it and closing it, I tried another round in SA mode and it worked, but it would not let me shoot the next round in DA mode..
I do have a wrench and feeler guage from EWK and I received some shims from another source..
First Dan Wesson Revolver - Model 15-2;
Walthers and CZs my favorites;
Gotta few Rugers, Smiths, RIAs as well
August 20, 2019
August 8, 2016
Was looking forward to my first outing with my model 15-2. Plus it had new shoes to show off. Glad I had brought along other toys to play with.Got through one cylinder in single action mode without issue. Really like the accuracy. Wish I had brought some .38 special though. Even in this frame with the 6 inch barrel, it packs a kick with 357 mags. Going have take my k-frame Smith with 4 inch barrel and compare next time.
Second and subsequent cylinders in double action were problematic. Among issues cylinder lock up, inability to release cylinder, etc. Had one light strike. Ejecting cartridges was a struggle.
Thankfully brought a couple of tried and true 9s, the Taurus 1911 and older CZ 75b. Even a few rounds with the factory new Charter Arms Pathfinder.
Is the cylinder ejector rod coming loose? If that happens it could unthread enough that the end of the rod will contact the shroud slot and you'll have a harder time to open the cylinder. Or as others have suggested, make sure the barrel cylinder gap is set properly. If it's too tight, once the gun/cylinder heats up it will expand and the barrel and cylinder will contact each other making it tough to turn the cylinder/pull the trigger.
Light strikes could be a few things. In my experience, it's been weak hammer springs and excess endshake. The endshake can be remedied with shims:
https://triggershims.com/cylinder_shims.html#S14
New hammer springs can be ordered directly from DW. Just email Shawn@cz-usa. EWK may have some in stock too?
February 24, 2020
Andrew1220 said
Is the cylinder ejector rod coming loose? If that happens it could unthread enough that the end of the rod will contact the shroud slot and you'll have a harder time to open the cylinder. Or as others have suggested, make sure the barrel cylinder gap is set properly. If it's too tight, once the gun/cylinder heats up it will expand and the barrel and cylinder will contact each other making it tough to turn the cylinder/pull the trigger.Light strikes could be a few things. In my experience, it's been weak hammer springs and excess endshake. The endshake can be remedied with shims:
https://triggershims.com/cylinder_shims.html#S14
New hammer springs can be ordered directly from DW. Just email Shawn@cz-usa. EWK may have some in stock too?
I have not performed much after the fact analysis yet. I do have shims from triggershims in my hands - from 001 to 009.
I only had one light strike from what I recall.
May break down the revolver this evening instead of doing some reloading and see what I can see.
First Dan Wesson Revolver - Model 15-2;
Walthers and CZs my favorites;
Gotta few Rugers, Smiths, RIAs as well
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February 22, 2009
February 24, 2020
Well, heck. Lost my mainspring guide last night trying to reassemble the revolver while watching Star Trek movie. Spent most of the movie on the floor looking for that thing. Maybe the wife will find it while I am work today. Oh well. I read about the dowel approach last night. Is there a particular grit I should use? I know the honing tools are 400 and 800.
First Dan Wesson Revolver - Model 15-2;
Walthers and CZs my favorites;
Gotta few Rugers, Smiths, RIAs as well
February 24, 2020
I went ahead and ordered a new mainspring guide, in the event the original is not found. I was battling with installing it when I lost it - so it may have launched. Several of the videos don't show installing it - they depict it staying in while taking care of everything else. Found found a video where the gunsmith uses a tool that appears to be about the size of gun cleaning rods to hold down the guide while screwing in the long plate screw to hold it while the hammer assembly is installed.
Are there other techniques. Reading the step-by-step take down at this forum last night, it took me a while to figure what was meant by using the long screw to hold the guide and spring in place. So sometimes the obvious skips right by me.
First Dan Wesson Revolver - Model 15-2;
Walthers and CZs my favorites;
Gotta few Rugers, Smiths, RIAs as well
February 24, 2020
Received my mainspring guide and ends up the cleaning rod for a 22 is a pretty good tool for holding it in place. Got the gun back together again last night after returning from a weekend camping trip. All functions seemingly as it should. Also picked up an dowel and some emory cloth and cleared out the chambers. Much better. But will see after shooting it - hopefully soon. Barrel was indeed tight and readjusted it.
First Dan Wesson Revolver - Model 15-2;
Walthers and CZs my favorites;
Gotta few Rugers, Smiths, RIAs as well
February 24, 2020
The firearm worked for about two cylinders before having issues, including the inability to close the cylinder. Also, the first cylinder, the spent rounds dropped out easily. Not so for the second cylinder.
Got the revolver home and indeed the spacing between cylinder and barrel and tightened up. Pulled the shroud, readjusted the barrel, put some blue loctite on the threads prior to tightening down and set it aside. Will assemble the shroud later.
Really not feeling the love for this revolver any longer. Glad I have my S&W K-frames.
First Dan Wesson Revolver - Model 15-2;
Walthers and CZs my favorites;
Gotta few Rugers, Smiths, RIAs as well
October 1, 2012
Interesting,
I have been shooting all models of DWs for years and never had one " close up" on me. Is it possible that you had some compression on the spring detent ball when you set the gap ? How much torque did you use on the barrel nut ?
I like K frames too as well as J and N
October 17, 2017
I can fully understand your frustration with your DW revolver right about now, but don't give up just yet. Once these problems are overcome you will really appreciate what this revolver is capable of!
I have had the barrel/cylinder gap get smaller as the shooting day progresses. No one believed me when I brought it up in another thread a few months ago. This weird phenomenon is most likely to happen if the barrel nut is torqued too tightly. Just wrist tight is best; don't bring your arm into it.
As for the sticky chamber extraction; I've had this problem as well. I used the Flex-Hone system from Brownells on both of my cylinders and it did wonders.
Bottom line is this: Dan Wesson revolvers maybe aren't for everyone, but if you enjoy tinkering and figuring out their mysteries they will eventually reward you with some of the best groups you'll ever see from a revolver.
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Dans Club
December 4, 2011
Those light strikes in DA are most often caused by the grip screw being too long or over tightened. If it's a small grip it takes a shorter screw. And neither length should be too tight, it binds the main spring causing light strikes and can bind the action. I've had barrels 'creep' closed over time, usually caused by the gap not being set wide enough at first. As the gun heats up, the gap disappears, especially if you are firing cylinder after cylinder, gun expands. I've also had a few barrels 'shoot loose', caused by not having the barrel nut tight enough to begin with.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
My father
If a man designed it, and a man built it, then a man can fix it.
My grandfather
February 24, 2020
Issue identified and tested. The ejector rod was not screwing in sufficiently to the ejector assembly and the bushing was hanging up on the ejector rod shoulder to boot. Forced the bushing to seat properly and cleaned the ejector rod threads. Used two spent casings to help get it all screwed in correctly. Ends up the ejector rod tip was rubbing against the end of the cutout for the ejector rod as the shroud was screwed down. Followup testing verified issued resolved.
First Dan Wesson Revolver - Model 15-2;
Walthers and CZs my favorites;
Gotta few Rugers, Smiths, RIAs as well
September 28, 2008
Every time I read where someone has a problem(s) like the OP had, I have to wonder if this is where all the negatives come from regarding DW revolvers? I've owned at least one for over 42 years, about 12 or so total, and I've had a few problems like a too tight grip screw, a couple of barrel nuts put on with red Loctite, a broken trigger return spring, and light primer strikes. All the problems were caused by clueless owners "fixing" things that in most cases, weren't broken in the first place. Putting red loctite on the barrel nut is to me a sign the owner isn't too swift.
One thing I never can understand is how people have problems setting the barrel gap and having the barrel nut loosen up. It's NEVER HAPPENED to a single one of my guns. One time, I switched barrels and forgot to snug up the barrel nut, and fired a couple of shots. No damage, just embarrassment. If the nut is just snug, it doesn't loosen up, period. And if it's really cranked down, at worst it's a pain to get loose.
I went to the range a year or so ago, and took all three of my DW small framed guns with me. The first one I took out was my worn looking 4"VH 15-2. Not a pretty gun, but it shoots fine. I think I might get it hard chromed, as it looks pretty bad, with maybe 70% of the finish left. The old guy next to me said, "Is that a Dan Wesson?". "Yeah". He snorted and said, "I had one and it wouldn't go a full cylinder without locking up or not firing DA". I said, "You probably didn't adjust the barrel correctly, and had the grip screw too tight!". He looked at me like I was crazy, and I went and shot 4 cylinders worth of full power .357 through it. "Well, You've got that one working, how long did it take you to get it going?". "It came out of the box it was shipped to me in dirty as hell, but it shot fine without anything being done to it". I then took out my really pretty 15-2, this one:
"You've got another one?" "I've got three .357's and one 44 that stayed home!". I shot a couple cylinders of .357 and asked him if he wanted to shoot it. "Sure!". He shot it pretty well, and said it felt like his S&W 686 with a weird trigger. I got out my third one, my $269 deal of a lifetime gun on Gunbroker 715:
After I shot it without any problems, the old guy said, "Well you seem to really have the bugs worked out of them!". I said back, "The only bugs come from people doing weird crap to them like clipping springs and loctiting barrels, and then blaming the gun when it's their fault! These guns are pretty much bulletproof, if you don't goof around with them!". I don't know if he was convinced, but my next gun really shocked him, an Astra A-75, kind of a mini Sig clone. "What the hell is that?". After I told him, he stood there watching me while I loaded up some magazines and cranked off about 27 rounds without any drama. "I've heard a lot of people had problems with Astra guns!". I told him I never had a bad Astra gun, and the A-75 was one of my favorites. He just laughed and said, "You've got some weird guns!". I guess I sort of do, but I have a lot of "usual" guns, and the oddballs, in most cases, are just as good.
People in general do so many bizarre things to guns, cars, and even radios, it's really no surprise when a DW doesn't work quite right. But since I have a LOT of parts bought over the years, I can fix most anything in minutes. Only part I can't replace is the sideplate. I have at least one of everything else.
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