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August 29, 2009
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The test post says "With the trigger still back all the way, check for
cylinder wiggle.
Front/back is particularly undesirable".
How much front to back wiggle is too much when in full lock up? Is there a max amount of wiggle(.01", .001" before its unsafe or needs to be repaired? Should it rock tight?
What are the results of shooting with some or too much full lockup wiggle.
Does the cylinder gap need to be set? Does it matter if the barrel is off?
How much back and forth should there be when no in full lock up?
Should there be a difference between then in lockup and not locked up?
How much back and forth with the action open?
If there is wiggle, how can it be fixed and what is the problem?
When in lockup with cylinder open, should either the cylinder stop the part (hand ???) that turns the cylinder be locked or should it be spring loaded?
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Moderators
January 24, 2009
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I'm no expert on this just yet, but I don't think front to back wiggle should be much different between full lockup & non-lockup positions. It's the rotational wiggle that will change at full lockup.
Front to back wiggle is pretty much determined by the shoulder at the front of the crane & the pivot bearing at the rear of the frame. If the bearing in the frame is easy to push in with your finger, then that could be your culprit. If it's nice-n-stiff, then you can remove the cylinder from the crane & install a thin shim (available at Midway, if I recall) to take up the slack.
Rotational wiggle is another matter & will most likely need to be fixed by a smith. Most all my guns, even unfired ones, have some slight rotational wiggle...but when that wiggle gets sloppy, it can cause spitting & shaving when fired. Of course, accuracy will suffer along with it.
August 29, 2009
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Charger Fan said:
Front to back wiggle is pretty much determined by the shoulder at the front of the crane & the pivot bearing at the rear of the frame. If the bearing in the frame is easy to push in with your finger, then that could be your culprit. If it's nice-n-stiff, then you can remove the cylinder from the crane & install a thin shim (available at Midway, if I recall) to take up the slack.
When I set the barrel gap, do I want to compress the pivot bearing on the frame?
Should I be able to compress the bearing on the frame when tightening the barrel with the feeler gauge?
Here is what is happening:
When I set the barrel gap and I tighten the barrel so the gauge is tight on the feeler gauge (but I can still remove the gauge) I have no visible barrel gap. That is, I have correct gap if I pull the cylinder back and stick in the gauge. When I let it go, the cylinder comes in contact with the barrel and I have no visible gap.
When I put light pressure on the feeler gauge,set the barrel gap and remove the feeler gauge, I then can pull the cylinder back and increase the barrel gap. That is, if I set the gap so that I can see light through the gap and I can stick in the gauge with light pressure, I can increase the gap when I pull the cylinder back compressing the pivot bearing on the frame.
Now looking at the gap between the crane and cylinder:
When I pull back on the cylinder, I get a gap between the crane and cylinder (this is with the action closed). It does not take much pressure to pull back on the cylinder to compress the bearing on the frame.
Being that when I pull the cylinder back and I get a gap between the cylinder and the crane, it must be that I need a shim between the crane and cylinder, right?
How do I determine what size shim I need. Stick a feeler gauge in the gap between the crane and cylinder?
At this point I am still not sure what the problem is.
I am thinking I need a shim. But the ball bearing on the frame has me thinking twice.
The thing that keeps me going back to the shim is that even if I had a correctly tight bearing on the frame, the cylinder should not move back more should it?
That is, if the bearing on the frame is real tight but can compress more when the gun is fired, wouldn't the gap increase when the pistol is fired? (I would not think that should happen)
I am thinking that the crane compresses the cylinder onto the bearing on the frame to the point that there is no cylinder movement even when the gun is fired, correct??? The gap should not increase when the gun is fired, should it? If that was the case, would it even matter if the bearing on the frame was loose or even removed, shouldn't the cylinder still be tight???
August 29, 2009
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Is there a max amount of endshake for a DW?
It looks like I need a power bearing washer or custom power endshake bearing.
I don't see them at Brownells and only found Colt, S&W and Ruger at Midway.
Do any cross over with DW? Does DW sell them? Could I just find a washer from a hardware store?
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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they appear on the auction sites every once in a while. That is a fairly complex job to do it right--you need to machine the bottom flat first, other wise the washer will just crumple into the groove that was formed. I think if you google endshake, you will find a procedure out there.
the washers are VERY thin--like thousandths.
SHOOT
August 29, 2009
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I measured .006" endshake. This is with the barrel bottomed out on the cylinder. I then pulled the cylinder back and measured.
August 29, 2009
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I think I know what might be the problem.
Looking over the revolver trying to see where the endshake is coming from and I think I have it.
The extractor is worn. I can see wear marks on it. To check the problem, I put some paint on it and closed the cylinder. I then opened the cylinder and there is paint on the frame where it rubs as the cylinder closes . The gun doesn't look to be shot to much but I bet the last owner would slam the action shut "Hollywood Style" wearing the extractor.
Does this make sense? If the face of the extractor is worn, would that wear cause the endshake? How close should the extractor be to the frame when the cylinder is closed?
I don't see a parts list for the large frame but on the small frame they show the extractor assembly and its a Factory Install. Why is that a factory install? Is it that the extractor needs to be machined to fit the frame or to get exact endshake?
Short of sending the gun to DW for a new extraxtor, could I have a machinest/gunsmith build up the extractor and then machine it so that there is no endshake...Might cost as much as sending it to DW though. Just a throught.
August 29, 2009
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Went to a gun smith and he looked at the revolver. He said there is not too much wigle but the wiggle is from the crane. He said the extractor doesn't look too worn.
August 29, 2009
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WOW, I took the revolver apart and there are a lot of places that can wear and cause endshake. Each spot may not be worn too much but put them all together and that equals slop.
August 29, 2009
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Here is a pic of the extractor.
When its new, is it smooth or is there machine marks on it.
The gun smith that looked at it quick said they were machine marks.
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Range Officer
Range Officers
May 2, 2009
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I'l save you the brain stress 
You would literally have to open/close the cylinder a million times to cause ANY wear on the extractor. I can't diagnose the revolver without holding it, but I'd bet the crane is loose and the cylinder has a little endshake. It doesn't take much slop on a few parts to make a lot of slop in the end.
Revolvers are a LOT more complicated to work on in comparison to a 1911. It's like working on 6 different guns to get all the cylinders timed the same.
SHOOT
August 29, 2009
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I am not really trying to fix the back and forth slop per say, its more I am trying to figure out how the DW revolver works. Half the fun of a firearm is taking it apart and seeing how it works, if I can fix a problem it may have its a bonus.
Yes I have crane slop and looking how to fix that. Looking at the crane lock I would think if it was a a few .000"'s thicker or shimmed a few .000"s that would take away a lot of crane slop.
This is not my first revolver but its my first well used revolver and the first one I took apart.
Its very interesting, comparing a revolver to a semi auto, with the simplicity if a semi one would think the semi would of been invented prior to the revolver.
I just got done working all the bugs out of a VERY worn Russian TT33 Tokarev 7.62x25 but like you said, the revolver is a different ball game, lots of things going on at one time.
August 29, 2009
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I get a reply form DW and .006" is too much endshake.
He said "Likely you need a new crane lock and maybe an end shake shim?"
I will send it to DW for service.
Awesome thanks for the post Iam just bought a 15-2 eatlier this week with end shake let me know how much it is and how it turns out if you don't mind I just emailed DW earlier today, was this the only issue with your gun?
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
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This thread is 4 years old you are not likely going to get an update on it here.
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
Wow missed that one newb error never know his connection might be slow 
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Disclaimer: I am not an expert, but, you are over thinking it. When you set the gap do not put pressure on the cylinder to the rear. The bullet is out of the chamber before the cylinder slams the recoil shield. I'd be more concerned over slop in the rotation as it could result in shaving lead/copper and spitting powder. Your extractor star looks fine to me( remember disclaimer). Set the gap and go shoot. Your cylinder looks like a .44 mag. (or a late .357). If a .44 , set the gap at .002 or.003. Over tightening the barrel nut with the spacer in pushes the cylinder back. Screw in the barrel until it touches the spacer , open the cylinder and firmly hold the forcing cone from turning with a finget and tighten the nut snug but not overly hard. If the b arrel turns do it over. Check all six chambers and set the gap at .002 on the tightest chamber. Once you get the feel and know what .002 or .006 looks like you can eyeball the gap and set it very quickly while cycling the action. If one chamber is prouder than the others you can mark it with something on the face of the cylinder to save time. Go shoot and have fun.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Ole Dog is right, when you measure the cylinder/barrel gap, you should be careful not to push the cylinder back against the frame. The ball bearing that centers and aligns the cylinder has a spring behind it, otherwise you could not get the cylinder closed. The gap is measured without compressing that spring. Cylinder endplay would be based on movement of the cylinder forward from the ball bearing.
My 715 was well used when I got it. I had too many problems with failures to fire, so sent it to the factory. They fitted a new hand and added a washer to the front of the cylinder. It's been fine since that fix.
I did find a non-factory source for washers for 44 cylinders, but none so far for 357's. I don't know if the factory would sell them, never asked.
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