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July 23, 2010
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Got my frame back today. Now I gotta put the barrel on. Its a 44 mag. So I take the barrel and screw in until the .006" feeler gauge is snug but can move. Then I slide on shroud, and tighten down barrel nut tight as I can get it. Recheck the feeler gauge. Can still slide in snuggly but without forcing it.
Now for the timing. I cock hammer after making sure the gun is empty, then squeeze trigger and ease hammer down. While still holding the trigger back, I take the cylinder and wiggle it and it does move a little back and forth (on the extractor's axis). It moves very little but it does move. Looking down the barrel at the cylinder the cylinder is lined up with the barrel but the fact it moves at all concerns me. Is it something I should put in for repair? Or is a little movement ok? I mean it is minute!
Joe S.
central MS
October 26, 2008
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A little movement is fine, there is only one revolver action that should have absolutely no movement and that's the early Colt action (Python, first gen. trooper, official police etc.). Did you send it in to DW to have the work done?
Dans Club
May 17, 2009
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Joe,
Don't crank the nut down as tight as you can get it. It may not want to come off when you go to take it apart; snug is good. I fine that when I shoot and the barrel gets warm the nut will loosen a little so I re-snug it, not tighten it as much as I can. When it cools it will get tighter as the barrel contracts/get shorter. You don't want a stuck nut.
Most of my guns have a little play in the rotation direction. Not allot but, maybe just enough to detect, perhaps movement as opposed to a measurable amount of play. I don't know the tolerance allowed so someone may add to this.
Most of my experience has been there is some end play in the cylinder when it is open but not much when it is closed. Again someone with more experience here may add to this.
Good luck with the .44
Ed
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
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Sounds good to me. Ideally there would be no movement but that is almost unheard of. A little is normal. (as in a few thousandths) Others may can give more detail. 
LB
Man y'all are fast, beat by two while I was typing. LOL
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
July 23, 2010
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Thanks guys. My 357 has no noticeable movement so that's why I was askin.
I sent the pistol into DW to have them install a nonfluted cylinder and the quote came back almost 100$ higher than the estimate I got in the emails so I didn't have the work done. Quite disappointing.
I will loosen the nut back a little.
Thanks yall
Joe S.
central MS
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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If the barrel is turning a bit and tightening the gap while you tighten the barrel nut, a couple of suggestions:
1) I always keep the barrel nut and muzzle end threads scrubbed spotlessly clean, but prefer to allow the frame threads and cylinder end barrel threads a little "not so clean". This allows the barrel nut to tighten down smoothly, and tends to resist allowing the barrel to turn.
2) Most of my DW barrel wrenches are a pretty tight fit into the barrel, and tend to turn the barrel slightly, making the gap tighter. IMO, the best place for a DW barrel wrench is in the photo of your complete Pistol Pack, or in the box with your original Owners Handbook, and not actually in use on your revolver. Easily the weakest link in the DW System!
I tighten to a snug .006 and if it tightens in a little, fine by me.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
July 23, 2010
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I have an aftermarket wrench I bought from a guy on GB that makes em. Maybe I'll just use it
Joe S.
central MS
February 11, 2010
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Joe S. said:
Thanks guys. My 357 has no noticeable movement so that's why I was askin.
I sent the pistol into DW to have them install a nonfluted cylinder and the quote came back almost 100$ higher than the estimate I got in the emails so I didn't have the work done. Quite disappointing.
I will loosen the nut back a little.
Thanks yall
If you don't mind, how much was the first email estimate ? Did you eat the return
shipping ?
-Blacktop
July 23, 2010
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I was told 150 installed + return shipping.
Turns out the labor was 150, part was 96 + return shipping.
I just didn't have the extra money right then, so I had to have them send it back. So I paid 50 to send to them, and 30 to have it returned. Basically and 80$ joy ride. Glad nothing happened to the frame! That wouldve been my luck. Lol
Joe S.
central MS
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