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October 19, 2019
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So as I mentioned this is a compensated (ported) barrel. Came with no barrel wrench and not much about the gun indicated that it was cared for.
Got the wrench in today from CZ and the good news is the nut came off easy. I'd been soaking it in 50/50 ATF and Acetone.
The shroud was glued on. I got a rubber mallet and started tapping teh barrel while pulling and it finally broke through the crust inside which you can see the remains in the pic below.
So right now I have the shroud stuffed with patches soaked in Hoppes #9 and the barrel wrapped in a cloth soaked in #9.
Hoping this breaks the carbon down. Never had this issue with my old 357 so I'm looking for tips on cleaning the heavy carbon deposits from the barrel and shroud without bubba'ing up anything.
Thanks!
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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I use Slip 2000 Carbon Killer for just about everything. Works great.
FWIW- That is a ported barrel and not a compensated barrel assembly. There's a difference in the DW world...
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
October 19, 2019
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rwsem said
I use Slip 2000 Carbon Killer for just about everything. Works great.FWIW- That is a ported barrel and not a compensated barrel assembly. There's a difference in the DW world...
I wasn't aware. Sure looked ported to me and it looked like a factory job so I assumed it was the DW original - or did DW produce both?
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Dans Club
December 4, 2011
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Those early Power Control barrels and shrouds were a good idea poorly executed. You will need to remove that shroud and clean it frequently to prevent the issue you currently have. Every time you fire it, gases, carbon, unburned powder and bullet jacket shavings will spill out of those holes in the tube and end up in between the tube and shroud. It did very little to off set muzzle climb. Best answer is to not shoot the Power Control tubes, just swap in a non drilled tube and you will be good to go.
Is that a blue tube or stainless?
If it's stainless, I've used a brass brush on an small bench grinder to polish off heavy deposits. Again, only acceptable on SS, NOT on a blue tube or you'll remove the blueing.
Anything worth doing is worth doing well.
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February 22, 2009
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DW made both ported and compensated barrel assemblies.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
October 19, 2019
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SCORPIO said
Those early Power Control barrels and shrouds were a good idea poorly executed. You will need to remove that shroud and clean it frequently to prevent the issue you currently have. Every time you fire it, gases, carbon, unburned powder and bullet jacket shavings will spill out of those holes in the tube and end up in between the tube and shroud. It did very little to off set muzzle climb. Best answer is to not shoot the Power Control tubes, just swap in a non drilled tube and you will be good to go.Is that a blue tube or stainless?
If it's stainless, I've used a brass brush on an small bench grinder to polish off heavy deposits. Again, only acceptable on SS, NOT on a blue tube or you'll remove the blueing.
It's stainless and it's all I have so that's what I'll be shooting.
It took a few hours and multiple soakings then finally a wire brush but I got if off the barrel and shroud. Sheesh I hate folks that don't care for their firearms.
Turns out the barrel was also leaded up a little which took another 4 rounds of soaking and scrubbing. So someone shot lead in it.
Got her all done and treated the inside of the shroud and in and outside the barrel with FrogLube. It's always worked well for me keeping carbon deposits down.
Not that big a deal taking off the barrel. I'll see what it looks like after 50 rounds.
I'm loading a batch of 265 gn cast powder coat and a batch of 310 gn cast powder coat with gas checks bot loaded with Lil' Gun.
Add to that some 240 JHC and then my standard hunting load of a 265 gn SP both with H110
I figure 96 (24 of each round) rounds ought to tell the tale.
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