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October 17, 2017
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The two DWs that I own are a 15-1 and an early 15-2. Other than the obvious difference of the shroud they are very much the same on the inside. Biggest difference is in the hammer spring. My wife can barely pull the hammer back on the 15-2, but can't manage the 15-1 at all. Even I find it to be quite a bit stiffer than the 15-2 but manageable.
I'm wondering if the earliest 15-1s used the same hammer spring as the Model 12 and 15 which had a shorter hammer throw (thus needing a stronger [longer] spring.) This would mean that the early 15-1s (with the new longer hammer throw) had more spring tension than needed since the added momentum would already result in a harder hit on the firing pin.
When I first received my 15-1, I was having problems with the firing pin sometimes sticking in the primers (with Magnum loads only) which prevented the cylinder from advancing. A light "twist" of the cylinder by hand would usually free it, bit I knew there was a problem I had to address. When I removed the firing pin I could tell that it had been recently replaced as there was evidence of fresh grinding on it. I actually suspect that someone had made the pin from a 15-2 one that has a slightly tapered shape. A 15-2 firing pin won't fit in a 15-1 frame because of this. After softening the rather sharp shoulder near the nose left by the grinding it has never given me a problem since.
I can't say if all 14-1 and 15-1 DWs have these heavy springs, or if they eventually went to a lighter spring more like the 15-2 after the old stock was used up. I have clipped a couple of coils from the spring which has helped reduce the tension somewhat, but it's still much heavier than the 15-2. I'm Ok with everything as it is now, but I'm wondering if the excessively heavy spring contributed to the original firing pin breaking in the first place.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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The early firing pins were prone to breaking. You seem to have fixed your problem. You are handy. Probably best to keep your eye out for a correct firing pin and firing pin spring on eBay. The same person who put in the newer style firing pin may have also put in an early spring. IMHO the very best thing you can do for improving the trigger pull is put in Wolff reduced power springs. Use the 8lb spring as the 71/2 lb spring may cause light strikes. The Wolff trigger spring makes more difference than anything else you can do. It cures the scratchy nature of the trigger. I have a nickel model 14 with Wolff springs that is as fine a trigger as any revolver I have. And I have numerous world class revolvers. The short hammer throw is unbelievable. I suspect Dan Wesson lengthened it because of light strikes with some ammo. It also could be an accidental result of the change to the trigger. The 11,12 and 14, 15 trigger has no ledge for the trigger spring to rest on. It is quite difficult to get the spring to stay in place while putting the sideplate on. It is the lack of the sixteenth of an inch ledge that makes the hammer fall short. They too can sometimes be found on eBay and you can use them on the later models
October 17, 2017
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Thanks for the helpful information and advice, my friend. I'll be keeping an eye out for the old style trigger and firing pin. If I'm successful on finding a trigger I'll already have the proper springs. In the meantime I will probably search out the Wolff spring kit you mentioned to minimize the possibility of breaking the existing firing pin which is probably a scarce item. I may decide I like the lighter feel as well.
Interestingly, the Colt Trooper MK lll has similar firing pin breakage issues as it is nearly an identical pin (although much more difficult to replace). Also, Colt took the opposite tack when they shortened the hammer throw (and lengthened the spring) of the MK V.
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