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Dans Club
March 27, 2009
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xbr10dr said:
Well that's sorta right, sorry new to this, lots of finger prints & glare, more to come in 29 days.
Rick
Ah you did fine and I must say you grabbed a deal with the extras! 28 days and counting. When you have it in hand soak the BA in some ATF Then tap the barrel out with a rubber hammer. all of it should clean up fine. On tools EWK has a allen collection of just what you need. Hey that soft case is one to put away!!!
July 9, 2011
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I've been looking at the EWK site gonna order the parts kit and the tools.
You can't really see the inside of the case well but it has some dark stains and
loose threads, outside is pretty good, I'll put it away when it comes home. I'm working on getting a range bag together so it won't be used.
Next question - Pachmayr Grips - Dan Wesson not listed anymore, is this a find them where you can thing. (emailed Pachmayr no response yet)
One more - when I remove the side plate, do I have to worry about parts flying
think I read no but just checking
Rick
" Wheels, Levers, Pumps, & Bolts"
October 10, 2010
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Congratulations Rick, that's a great deal! From the pictures you posted, I think you'll be a very happy man in 28 days. Thanks for sharing the first part of your story with us. I'm looking forward to hearing the rest after you get your new DW to the range.
Oh, and 
to the forum!
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
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Rick, yes, Pachmayr grips are a find em where you can item. Look on Ebay often, they show up there and most times in good or new condition. The Gripper combat type usually brings a good bit of money. Or they sometimes show up at gunshows if you get to any, in used parts bins etc.
If you take the sideplate off, no, parts will not fly out. The hand that rotates the cylinder might move out of position due to its spring but it wont pop out or go flying through the air. In my opinion, the 'average Joe' thread on disassembly and cleaning written by member Shootist357 is awesome and easy to follow. My only advice from my limited experience would be don't over polish or remove metal unless you are an experienced gunsmith, don't overlube when assembling, and when you put the sideplate on if it sticks don't force it check and make sure everything is where it needs to be. I think I have maybe average mechanical skill and I have very successfully followed his instruction on 4 of my .357s now.
Have fun with your new Dan when you get it.
-Lonwolf
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
December 26, 2010
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$250 for that?! Definitely a 
. (I'd suffer 
for one at that price.)
Congrats on a great purchase. And thanks for the 
.
September 28, 2008
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You actually did better than I did back in 2006, when I got my 715, with 3 grips, the wrench, the original box, a rug, with custom sights for $269+ shipping because the prices have gone up quite a bit since then. You have an early 15-2, since the cylinder stop (the half round little part on the left side) is an added part on early guns. On later ones, it's part of the sideplate. Watch out, sometimes when you shoot a gun, it will slip out. You can red loctite it in if it gets loose. I took a punch and put a dimple on mine to tighten up the fit and then used the loctite. It never came out again.
DW's are really easy to work on, once you learn how to take it apart, you can fix almost anything. I have the 715 and a later 15-2, both with 4" and 6" VH barrels.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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+1; Go slow, don't force anything and all will be well.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
July 1, 2011
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xbr10dr said:
I've been looking at the EWK site gonna order the parts kit and the tools.
You can't go wrong ordering from EWK. I ordered a new barrel nut wrench, allen key/feeler guage set, parts set, extra hand spring, front sight setscrew, and fiber optic front sight from Eric, and he is the best in fast service and email communication.
I ordered in two batches a couple of days apart, and had already sent my check with double $3 shipping because it was only three bucks, and Eric threw in a couple of extra front sight setscrews (a $4 value) to make up for it.
Fantastic guy!
One more – when I remove the side plate, do I have to worry about parts flying
think I read no but just checking
Parts don't fly out, but there are a couple of gotchas to watch out for. First is the hand and its spring. Depending on your level of lube, the hand sometimes "sticks" or suctions itself to the sideplate and gets pulled out when you remove the sideplate. Then you have to put the hand back in and fuss with getting the hand spring back into the groove on the hand's backside, and into the hole on the transfer bar.
Then when you take out the retaining clip to remove the cylinder and crane, be aware that there is a plunger and spring in the base of the crane that pushes back against the cylinder stop, and it is prone to just fall out after you remove the cylinder and crane from the frame, and you may not even notice it. (Don't ask how I know…)
Without that spring and plunger your cylinder will not lock up and is dangerous to fire!
John
July 9, 2011
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Thanks Folks, (once again) the responses I'm getting have been fantastic so i'm going to ask some more.
Is the cylinder stop a press in fit? or threads?
What is the outside diameter of the barrel? the reason I ask is I have a rather unique vise (from building golf clubs) with rubber jaws, opens to a max of approx. 1". thinking of using it to hold the gun while working on it. Will post pics later today.
That being said anyone got an old boogered up barrel they want to get rid of? just need to have good frame threads.
From your responses and reading this site I feel very comfortable working on this gun, seems like half the fun!!!
Is it OK to keep this thread going, it's looks like it may go on for a while?
Rick
" Wheels, Levers, Pumps, & Bolts"
July 9, 2011
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Pics of vise
note rubber jaw inserts
clamp in gun barrel
" Wheels, Levers, Pumps, & Bolts"
July 9, 2011
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not the best quality pics, took with IPad, wife has the camera in her car.
think it might work?
I've been so absorbed with this DW, forgot I have a S&W that I just registered
and need to pick up. 
Rick
" Wheels, Levers, Pumps, & Bolts"
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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To clarify on the cylinder stop-I believe this has always been integral to the sideplate (not a separate part). There is not a parts diagram that shows this as a separate part. On the earlier revolvers, like yours, the area where the cylinder stop joins the sideplate is a very sharp and clearly defined line. On later revolvers, especially the stainless models, this join is smoothed up from the sideplate as a reinforcement. Some owners (like ME) of earlier guns were not careful in removing and reinstalling the sideplate, and that tab broke off. It is a very clean break, and for may years I just press fit it back in place, and watched for it to fall out. DW/CZ now has a cylinder stop "service part" because it was a fairly prevalent problem. Many people epoxy/superglue/loctite the new cylinder stop in place, the best solution is don't break it to begin with.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
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January 24, 2009
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I got sidetracked on the bench grinder switch...looks a lot like something I'd have in my garage. LOL!
I don't have much more to add that hasn't already been covered, so carry on.
July 9, 2011
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Shame of it is I work at a major hardware store and keep moving that switch back and forth between the grinder and a small belt sander!!!!! Might pick up another one tonight at work, if I can remember.
Rick
" Wheels, Levers, Pumps, & Bolts"
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