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August 28, 2009
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I had a feeling you were talking about the cylinder stop. It's a pressed-in part. You should be able to tap a new one in with some loctite. Just be careful that it's not too tight and you split the side cover. You can get a new one here at EWK, he has them in stock>>>>
https://www.ewkarms.com/zen8/index.php?main_page=index&cPath
RichardsDWs said
That looks like it was surgically removed. Would that allow for swapping cylinders quickly?? (.357 to a .32-20 say.. with appropriate barrel change as well) What other reasons might one do that??
It's a pressed-in part - sometimes they fall out and get lost as did this one. The barrel threads in the frame are different for each caliber to prevent installing the incorrect barrel into the frame and blowing the gun (and possibly your hand) apart. You cannot change calibers on a frame without some machinist work on the barrels to make the threads common across multiple calibers. It's not recommended.
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The old style was a separate little piece, they were prone to falling out. You can get replacements, Loctite it in. Later guns had onebpiece side plates.
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One of my nicknames is Oft Wrong Ron. I may be wrong but I was under the impression that the cylinder stop on 15-2s before 1986 was actually a part of the side plate but designed wrong and weak. The pounding on the ejector rod when cases are stuck would break the cylinder stop off the sideplate. Dan Wesson sold a replacement stop that could be press fit and loctited. Once broken off, the sideplate at that point is weak and can broken when attempting to replace the sideplate. Try not to force the sideplate back into the frame. It is important to hold your upper lip just right while you do it. A broken sideplate is a terrible tragedy. The factory has no blue ones in stock and sideplates are fitted before the frame is polished so a replacement cannot be easily fitted. In fact, it may never look right. It might be best to try to weld or braze the sideplate together.
I have acquired a couple of dozen used sideplates but each one is different. I have one bare frame I am still seeking a sideplate to fit. If you ever see a bare frame for sale, try to obtain the original sideplate or don't bother with it unless you have a couple dozen to try fitting.
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December 7, 2020
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https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1088390375
https://www.gunbroker.com/item/1088166435
Guy is a Gunbusters contractor. Condition is most likely poor to fair
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I stand by my earlier statement, some were made with that little hemisphere stop as a press in piece. All the 7 series small frames had the stop as an integral part of the plate. I've seen one of those broken off and it didn't leave a nice symmetrical hole like pictured, it was jagged and grainy.
The OP needs that little press in piece and some red Loctite, not an entire side plate. These things popped out all the time while shooting, that's why they redesigned the later plates.
This design and the Power Control barrels were NOT two of Dan Wessons better ideas.
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^^^ 'zactly. Great examples here One is even missing another ready to pop off....
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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December 9, 2020
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I put the 8 inch barrel back on it, after I got the sight installed. I dont think I have the right rear sight springs (got 2 springs from my local gun shop that looked close to the right size).
10 yards, using some .44 special I reloaded, with 200 grain bullets I cast, and powder coated. shot a string single action, and a string double action. I did have 1 round with a primer strike that did not go off?? when I reshot it....it shot. any ideas on that? overall, I am pretty happy with how the sight turned out...and it shoots like a Dan Wesson should shoot!!!!
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SgtFury said
I did have 1 round with a primer strike that did not go off?? when I reshot it....it shot. any ideas on that?
Primer may not have been seated to the bottom of the pocket. 1st strike seated it and second fired.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
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