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September 12, 2010
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The gun in question is a 738, if that makes any difference. I was shooting some reloads (not mine) and got about 25% FailureToFire (didn't have any factory with me). Primers were Winchester. Most of the time a second hit would fire which normally means high primers. But the primers are fully seated and the firing pin dents do look shallow. These reloads fired in a S&W 442.
My second guess is a dirty action. I got the gun a short time ago and the ejector was so dirty that it would barely move. I had to remove the ejector from the cylinder to get it clean. So I removed the side plate and it is spotless inside - no dried-up oil, no dirt, everything moves freely. BTW, the top screw for the side plate was Not tight.
Suggestions please?
December 26, 2010
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I'm having a similar problem with my 740. The local gunsmith says I need new springs. The springs should be here soon. Until then, it's his educated and experienced opinion. (And when it still doesn't work, it will probably be my ham-fisted installation. 
)
September 12, 2010
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I don't really suspect springs are my problem either. Springs weaken from use, not age and I don't think this gun has been shot a lot.
September 26, 2010
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Easy to replace the springs, and clean and lube. Use search to see other threads on this subject.
Chuck
September 12, 2010
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OK, I think I know why I started getting light primer hits. Look at the end of the grip post. There is a screw that adjusts the tension on the hammer spring. I have adjusted it in from where it was when I got light hits. Note that there is hole that looks like it should have a pin going through it to prevent this screw from turning. I don't have the pin. Also note that the grip screw screws into this adjustment screw (it is a sleeve, threaded inside and outside). So, installing or removing my grip can change the hammer spring tension. Can anyone confirm or correct my analysis?
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January 24, 2009
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If your Lil' Dan has the original rubber grips, they should screw into a grip adapter like this...sorry about the cutesy purple measuring stick.
My screw on the bottom is staked in three places, to keep it from turning. If yours turns, I would assume that someone has been attempting spring tension adjustments, too.
The hole that you're talking about is there to hold the spring guide down for disassembly. Cock the hammer back slowly & watch for the two holes to ligh up, then insert a paper clip to hold it down.
If yours is like mine however, the hole in the spring guide isn't drilled far enough up the shaft to let the hammer clear for removal. I had to use needle nose pliers, to push it down further so the hammer would clear.
One thought...I notice you don't have much lube inside yours. I don't know if it will have much effect on primer strikes, but you could try to "slick up" the action with some lube. Mine seems to like Permaplate engine assembly lube best, over the ATF & other light lubes that my other DW's prefer.
September 12, 2010
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Yes, I have the original grips. I took the saddle off to take the picture. The grip does screw into the saddle (I had a senior moment).
Mine is not staked - it turns easily with just thumb pressure. I did get the holes to line up. Maybe I could use some locktite to hold it in place.
I took it out to the range today after tightening the screw. Only one FTF out of 75 rounds. It fired on the second hit.
Yes, my action is absolutely dry. I haven't had the side plate off before this. My favorite lube for the action on my autos is dry teflon - Remington RemDriLube. But it does feel very smooth just as it is. I still might polish it some though, then lube.
I contacted CZ (web form) this morning and asked them if they have a manual. I didn't see it in the download section. My Firearms Assembly / Disassembly manual by J.B. Wood covers model 15 but there are some differences to the 738.
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