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January 15, 2012
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I am new to Dan Wesson revolvers and I picked one up that was neglected and rusty. I did a lot of work to it and finally got it re-blued. Now I have noticed two things that I am not sure are problems or just how these guns were built.
First, I can't get the cylinder off the crane without removing the side cover, it won't clear. Is this normal?
Second, when I load and go to close the cylinder, it will sometimes be slid back far enough to hit on the frame (the rear of the cylinder will hit) just a little. As long as I point the gun down, this doesn't happen but sometimes if it is pointed level or up just a bit, the rear of the cylinder with hit the frame just a little and it is going to damage the bluing. Is this usual and is there a fix?
Thanks
September 26, 2010
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You are missing the crane lock, a little clip that holds the crane in place.
Dans Club
DWF Supporters
April 20, 2010
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Welcome to the forum. To answer your first question, yes that is normal, you must remove the sideplate to remove the cylinder. Unless it is an older porkchop type model on those you remove the barrel shroud to remove the cylinder.
I am not sure what you mean on the second question, a little contact between the cylinder and frame is normal though. Safe gun handling usually dictates pointing the pistol toward the ground when loading though anyway.
And by the way, the guys here love pics and would love to see a few of your project! I love seeing neglected DWs brought back to life.
-Lonwolf
"The lion and the tiger may be more powerful, but the Wolf does not perform in the circus"
May 3, 2011
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Welcome to DWF. You can check the search engine here to find the answers to a lot of your questions. We have some really smart DW smiths here. Good luck. Check out Shoots thread: https://www.danwessonforum.com/forum/reloading/tuning-up-your-15-2-the-average-joe-method/
Supporter
Moderators
January 24, 2009
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Your B/C gap may be a little tight. I have noticed with a couple of my small frame DW's, if I get the B/C gap under .003", the cylinder goes "klunk" as it first hits the front of the cylinder on the barrel, then the cylinder is pushed back against the recoil shroud. I think the first contact (front of cylinder to rear of barrel) makes the most noticeable noise, but chose to not ding the goods. I set the B/C gap on those two at .004 ~ .005" and all is well.
Some guns just like their own specific tolernances, who am I to make them go against their will?
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
March 27, 2009
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Sounds like you have a couple fixes here! Keep us updated!
January 15, 2012
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Thanks everyone. I am not missing the crane lock, it is all in place. The crane goes up and down just fine but the cylinder slides back just a bit on the crane so when I go to close it, the rear of the cylinder will hit the frame a bit. Not really a big deal but it is the only revolver I have ever to pay attention to closing the cylinder.
Thanks for letting me know about having to remove the side plate. I plan on getting the sights back on and posting some before/after pics soon!
February 11, 2010
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Plstu said:
but the cylinder slides back just a bit on the crane so when I go to close it, the rear of the cylinder will hit the frame a bit.
Is it possible your cylinder stop is missing , is there a half moon shape
hole in the lower side plate ?
-Blacktop
January 15, 2012
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Yup, the cylinder stop is there and everything works great and locks up tight once the cylinder is raised into the frame. I have gone threw all the exploded views I could find to make sure I wasn't missing any parts...... Oh, well. No big deal
February 11, 2010
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Any chance you can post a pic of how the rear of cylinder is hitting
the frame ?
-Blacktop
January 15, 2012
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Great idea! I will dig the camera out and see if I can get a shot that shows what I mean. Thanks
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