January 13, 2009
Greetings All. Although I have been a shooter for many years, this is my secon post here, after my introduction.
I purchased a Model 15 Dan Wesson over the weekend, after close comparison to a new Ruger GP100. Very tough choice, but the trigger on the Wesson was better and I like the flexibility of interchangeable barrels. The Wesson came with a 6" barrel mounted to the frame and a 4" barrel. In the process of thoroughly cleaning the revolver, I found one item I am not to thrilled about. The fit of the 6" barrel.
When removing the 6" barrel, the shroud was fairly tight until it came off of the alignment pin. When unscrewing the barrel, I was immediately aware that it didn’t "feel" quite straight. I replaced it with the 4" barrel, which screwed in exactly as it should; placed the shroud over it and tightened the nut. All fit exactly straight and smooth. The nut tightened as it should, it gets to the point where you have steel on steel contact and then went tight very quickly. Just to make sure I new what I was doing, I removed the 4 incher and put the 6" back on. Again, threading the barrel into the frame, didn’t feel quit straight. I don’t have a way to measure its "out of square", but it just seems off. I set the gap with the gauge (just over 0.006") and placed the shroud back on. It fits well until you get to the pin, then it is tight. Not so tight that it can’t be pushed down, but there is definite resistance. Then treaded the nut in place and it tightens very differently, you get to the steel on steel fit, but then you can tighten quite a bit more (compared to the 4" barrel). Like you are pulling the steel straight. Hard to describe, but if you have worked around mechanical things, the difference is like that between tightening a screw holding two hardened steel parts versus tightening a screw holding two aluminum parts.
After this rather long dissertation, my question is, is this normal for Dan Wesson’s? I haven’t owned a Dan Wesson before, or any wheel gun for that matter. If not, is this a gun smith issue, or should it go to Dan Wesson. I know they are owned by CZ now. Also, if the barrel is not straight, could I just get a replacement barrel, or do I need to get both the barrel and shroud? Any thoughts or help would be most welcome. Thank you.
Quincy
January 4, 2009
I don't have a 357 but it sounds like a straighten issue from the way you described it.. maybe someone here would be willing to send you a 6" barrel for you to compare it to. ?? just a thought.. I wonder what happens to the barrel when you "roll" it on a perfectly flat surface ?? does it roll true or does it "hump" up and down ??
I think you can buy a barrel from CZ for >$100 !! is it a ported barrel ? if so is the inside of the shroud clean or is there residue inside causing the shroud to bind ? Cleaning thoroughly shroud and ported barrel is mandatory, ( not an option) for continued proper fit.
keep us posted.
Wayne
January 13, 2009
I took the 6" barrel and rolled it on a surface plate today. As best as I can tell, it looks straight, which is VERY unexpected. Maybe the threads which fit into the frame are slightly off. It is just a standard barrel, no porting etc. I thought about the same, just get a replacement barrel from CZ. Thanks for the reply.
I 2nd getting a new barrel from CZ, if the 4" goes on correctly. You shouldn't need a shroud, just the barrel. Does the pin fit tight on the shroud without the barrel in place? I had one shroud that fit tight and I used a diamond tip dremmel bit to polish the hole a little at a time til it went on and off smoothly.
January 13, 2009
The 6" shroud fits fine without the barrel and also with my 4" barrel. No binding at all. One more tidbit to add to this. When I insert the 4" barrel into its shroud, it spins fully 360 degrees with no binding. When I do the same with the 6" barrel in the 6" shroud (muzzle flush) it spins maybe 270 degrees, then binds. You can still spin it fully, but it binds for may a 1/4 turn. If I don't slide the barrel all the way into the shroud, keep the muzzle just below the counterbore for the barrel nut, it spins easily. This makes me wonder if the shroud is also slightly out.
I also noticed the the rear sight was adjusted pretty far to the right when I bought the gun. I new this might be an issue, but I paid what I thought was a fair price for it. Thanks again.
January 13, 2009
Robert Hoffman said:
It kinda sounds like the 6″ barrel/shroud took a hit from the side. I would still go with getting just the barrel and if the problem persists, get the shroud too. Does the 4″ shoot straight?
I thought that maybe the barrel took a hit as well. If it did, it would have had to have been something cushioned. The 6" shroud looks new, no dings, scuffs or anything I could find. For that matter, the rest of the gun looks nearly new too. I haven't shoot either barrel yet, first wanted to ask about the 6" and see what your thoughts were. I also have a question about cylinder/barrel gap, but I will put that in another post.
January 13, 2009
Thanks for all the replies. I received an answer from Keith at DW in regards to this. He thought it should be fine to shoot. If it proves less consistent than the 4" barrel, I’ll send the barrel/shroud assembly to them and see what they tell me. Once I get a chance to take some pictures, I’ll post them. I’ll also let you know how it shoots, once I find a place to do that.
January 13, 2009
I did slide the 6" barrel into the 4" shroud and it fits smooth all the way. Did the reverse also, and it did well. ???
DW said it is just probably a tolerance stack up issue, which is most likely true. Both the 6" shroud and 6" barrel, may be just less than straight, I can't see it and I am used to looking for very small deviations, less than .001" maybe, not out of spec, just slightly out.
I'll try to shoot it and see how the two barrel compare. Thanks.
Quincy
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