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June 4, 2011
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Hi All,
I Would like some advice. I aquired a DW 22 with an 8'' heavy vented shroud a few days back. my DWAS kicked in and so I figured a little thing like a messed up barrel nut wasn't going to stand in the way between me and the revolver and so, I read thru the posts by the dutchman and now I feel his pain.
I first tried my EWK wrench which removed the barrel nut on my mod. 15 like butter. The problem I have is that the previous owner has worn the barell nut notches on the ccw side into what effectivly are ramps that when I apply pressure, just push the wrench back upward and out of what used to be the notches. No matter how much downward force I put, the same results occur.
I saw where someone had suggested an impact driver in combo with an EWK wrench and figured that would do it for sure. Drilled a small hole in the end of my wrench and drove a star (torx) style driver tightly into the back side of my wrench. (Sorry Erick) Didn't work... all I did was mess the nut up worse.
I fianaly noticed the threaded rod method hidden it plain sight under FAQ's and I have a piece of #12 threaded rod with some 12- 20 nuts and washers to employ. I want to make sure I understand what is going to happen here.
The desired outcome should involve the rod becoming so tight that the threaded end of the barrel will be compelled to rotate itself out of the frame right? I can see where this may work but I welcome some imput from my fellow Dan fans.
I have heated the shroud and have soaked it well with lots of G96.
After this purchase, I have concluded I may have more money than good sense which is a very sad commentary if you look at my bank account...
I have yet to get to the range, ours closes at 5pm and I never seem to make it home with enough time. I may be forced to go to an indoor range if this keeps up...
Thanks all.
Jeff
October 11, 2009
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Can you post some pics? That would help a lot.
September 1, 2010
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Pictures are worth a thousand words, let the world see your problem.
June 4, 2011
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I do have a pre attempt pic that I can get on here in a while. I am almost , or ok I am embarrassed to show you what it looks like after the impact driver debacle..
I am pretty darn sure my portaband can get it off, but figured i'd turn to my fellow Dan Fans first.
In all seriousness, all is not lost, as long as the barrel gap is ok, I will have a fixed barrel model for a while.
As of now, I have it soaking ala average Joe post in pieces in a tupperware.
Jeff
June 4, 2011
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Where a healthy barrel nut has a nice defined 90 deg. notch, mine came with the left side eroded into a 45 or 30 deg angle up to the top of the nut. When I try to unscrew the nut, the incline just pushes the barrel wrench up and out of the notch.
I use an impact driver every day in my line of work and I don't know how we ever did without before. That is what further served to mangle the rest of the nut ... As my Dad would have said for sure, who is what or is that nutt or nut,
August 28, 2009
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Try this - I've have a quite few stuck barrel nuts, mangled a few, and this worked the best of all the methods:
Get a Bessey GSCC2.512 clamp at Lowes - it's about $12. This is what it looks like:
http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Bessey-GSCC2-512-12-Clutch-Bar-Clamp/148528/Cat/76
Put a little penetrant on the threads and let sit for a couple hours.
Heat it up with a hair dryer nice and hot (remove the front sight first or you could melt the insert.
Remove the plastic protectors from the clamp. Place a quarter over the forcing cone end of the barrel, your EWK wrench on the nut, and clamp them together. Clamp it tight enough so that the wrench tabs don't jump out of the nut slots. Even if the slots are ramped like you said, the clamp should still hold the wrench in the slot. An extra set of hands helps a lot to clamp everything together. Then give it a turn ccw.
It's worked for me every time.
June 4, 2011
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June 4, 2011
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Hey Harley,
OK, thanks, I really did a number on it with the impact driver and there's a semblance of what a trained eye might call notches. I am going to proceed with caution from here on out.
From what I can tell about the threaded rod method, the forcing cone end of the barrel should rotate after I get enough tension on the end nut. I am temped to consider a split washer on the frame end to help it grab hold of the barrel but I am doing my best to not just dig my hole deeper here, so members, please advise. For the time being I am letting the Dan and I have a little time out session before I try any more homesmithing
Jeff
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January 24, 2009
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Harley's method should do the trick. It looks like that nut is really in there, so as long as the clamp keeps some serious pressure on the nut, there should be no wiggle room for the tool to jump from the nut grooves.
Range Officer
Range Officers
Dans Club
February 28, 2009
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The 12" threaded rod method works very well and you are unlikely to damage the gun. However, I would stay away from the split washer, but that's just me.
-Mike
June 4, 2011
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Thanks all, I am looking for the frame end of the barrel to come loose with the rod method, .. I will try with the c clamp first but not much material remains after the impact driver so I am somewhat skeptical of it's working out. I will skip the split washer in favor of a standard cut washer. I am hesitant to apply that much torsion in the vertical plane on the barrel itself. I know somethings gotta give I just hope it wont warp the barrel or mess up the forcing cone end somehow.
In the worst case, I may be in the market for an 8" barrel and nut in .22 cal. I have a feeling the threads on the nut end may be damaged. If you look closely at the barrel and nut, it appears some of the nut has fused itself into or over the barrel. I hope I am wrong about this.
I will chill and stew it over until at least tomorrow. Still wanting confirmation on that barrel turning in the frame end.
Thanks again,
Jeff
DWF Supporters
Dans Club
Moderators
November 17, 2008
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deluxacman said:
I will chill and stew it over until at least tomorrow. Still wanting confirmation on that barrel turning in the frame end.
Thanks again,
Jeff
Yes the barrel will unscrew from the frame so either way will get the shroud off. On the small frame guns the shroud will slide off either end of the barrel, on the large frames it only goes one way.
Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.
June 4, 2011
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lbruce, thank you. I almost have recovered enough nerve after attempt 1.5
the other evening ! I must admit two things after this experience. #1= I got so lucky with my pac, everything just effortlessly came undone it is in such great shape that if i did'nt know better, I'd say it was owned by a DWF member. (I always look at the bright side)#2=I may be a delux air conditioning contractor but I have a long way to go to becoming a gunsmith!
Having said that, I too now know I have dwas,(Them supermags is sho-nuf pretty.) I will get out and shoot the crap out of both revolvers this weekend and will lie in wait to commit gtdw at the first chance I get.There is a gun show in two weeks I probably will try to go to.
I'll post my results for the benifit of all. and I really appreciate all of your imput.
This site is the best, Thanks Jody and Admin! and thanks to all members who post such great info.
I have a date with my B&D workmate vise, a c clamp, and some threaded rod!
Jeff
May 17, 2010
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I have used the threaded rod method twice. Both to good effect. The barrel should unscrew from the frame.
Observations:
You need a really good bench vise, so that you are super flat/square to the barrel. The thing cant wiggle or get "cocked".
The .22 barrel is the same outside diameter ( I think) as the .357, so while it could get damaged, you have as good a chance as any to NOT damage the barrel... its one thick tough tube.
The bigger problem you will face is that the threaded rod has to be so small in diameter to fit inside the .22. I had to go to a sure 'nuf supply house to get threaded rod that was tough enough. I want to say it is grade 10 black oxide coated stuff.
I removed the cylinder/crane for better access.
Soap Box, Ballot Box, Ammo Box
in that order.
4 Monson Model 15's
1 Palmer FB 15
1 Rossi 357 Model 92 (lever)
1 CZ 75B
June 4, 2011
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Hey pintor and all,
Yep, my little bitty #12 size threaded rod from ace hardware did not pass the dan wesson stuck barrel stress test. I also had first attempted the C Clamp method using what I would call a bar style clamp. The frame of the clamp started to warp. I had some serious pressure on the barrel wrench and it still jumped out of the remaining notches. I used a small ball peen to tap on the handle of the wrench in my effort to break the nut free.
I have noted that my poor EWK wrench is starting to erode on the CCW sides of the "tines" or ears as one might call them. I have used a pretty good heat gun during all of these efforts as well.
I did take a couple of pics and will post them later. One thing for sure: DO NOT HOOK YOUR EWK WRENCH UP TO AN IMPACT GUN. The tork and rpm of the driver is hard to control and when I tried it , the thing spun around a bunch of times and really ate up that poor barrel nut. It did seem like a great idea...but How did that go? Not too good!!!(I believe that was Larry the Cable Guy or someone like that's catch phrase.)
Anyway, back to the drawing board, I will overcome this I am sure.
Jeff
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