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Model 40 Custom Beauty Pageant
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maximumload
Mondovi, Wisconsin
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February 5, 2010 - 11:02 pm
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[Image Can Not Be Found][Image Can Not Be Found]Ok, no crying on the forum. Some of you have seen my 40 and know it's nasty history. As a restoration is impossible, thanks to the previous owner. I have tried a sort of case color on the frame and barrel and it look pretty good with the wood grip. I thinking about going to the gray parkerizing too. Then I came up with this one. Maybe just polish it in the white or in the parkerizing grey. I am looking for a vote of looks good or not. And any other idea's for her. And No Superdan I will not paint it PINK!!!DWF Sign

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SHOOTIST357
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wdelack
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February 5, 2010 - 11:41 pm
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Another option is Robar's NP3 finish.  It is likely more expensive than Armoloy.

http://www.robarguns.com/np3.htm 

I have a very early Kahr K9 with the NP3 finish on it.  The finish has held up perfectly.  The only drawback is the PTFE makes the finish so slippery that it, at times, can be difficult to pull the slide back.  A very firm grasp is required.

-Wayne

3PPCLined.jpg

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GrayGhost
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February 6, 2010 - 12:04 am
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Not knowing anything about either of these coating processes, how does the cylinder face, inner frame, and barrel ends hold up with each of these finishes?

GG

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Charger Fan
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February 6, 2010 - 12:26 am
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wdelack
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February 6, 2010 - 12:38 am
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I have put somewhere around 5000 to 6000 rounds through the Kahr.  Each time after sooting it, I can wipe all the residue off with a dry paper towel.  There has never been any discoloration around the muzzle or ejection port.  But, the finish isn't directly exposed to combustion like on a revolver.   Might be a good question for Robar.

-Wayne

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Jody
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February 6, 2010 - 9:05 am
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GrayGhost
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February 6, 2010 - 10:02 am
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Now that nickel has been mentioned, I'm with th rest of the nickel supporters.  Nickel would sure make a statement and it's a durable finish.

GG

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Supermagfan
Pennsylvania

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February 6, 2010 - 10:09 am
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I have toyed with a nickel SM idea too.  A suggestioon was that the barrel remain blued in a slotted setup.  Good candidate there Max Load!  Someone needs to give it a try!

A man cannot have too many SuperMags

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lbruce
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February 6, 2010 - 10:12 am
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Nickle would be cool but here is my 2 cents. I do not know the history but it appears to be a stainless gun with a blue cylinder. If so re-blue (if needed) the cylinder and  blue the barrel then polish the gun. This would be a inexpensive option. Just a thought though as I think it looks pretty good from here as is.

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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zoommb
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maximumload
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February 6, 2010 - 3:34 pm
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[Image Can Not Be Found]Oh I wish it was a stainless 740. But I am sure I would have never gotten a 740 for the 400.00 I paid for it off of GB in as is condition. We never new how bad it was.

Superdan spent over a month of his spare time to get in the condition it is in today. Frame bent, they cut guides out of the frame for the hammer for a trigger job???Cylinder stop bad, hand cracked and so on. As it has the crowning title of most abused DW we ever seen. It was a purchased from the Los Angles Firing Range. We guessed about a 70,000 to a 100,000 rounds went threw it. A true testament to the strength and durability of one of best revolvers ever made. And still competes in competitions to this day.

Anyways, back to the posting.

The nickel has been talked about a lot. But I get leery as I have owned a nickel SW and suffered with wear issue on the barrel by the crown, And superdans nickel Python as blasted (chipped away) the nickel at end of the of the cylinder from hot loadings. And my love for AA 1680 is a real factor in this too. As her cylinders are fire cut from running 357 magnum. ( Thanks again previous owner). The AA 1680 is the only powder it will run true Supermag loadings without putting a serious ring in the brass, as AA 1680 runs at such low pressures. But at a price as it is a real flame cutter on the frame.

NOTE: This is the smallest nastiest powder I ever worked with. I recommend a Dillion powder bar style dump to keep any constancy in loading. I had even had to polished the funnel on the Dillion dump to get a .1 of a grain constancy, as this powder is not user friendly.

I like the comments, opinions and options for the old girl. Any and all are welcome.

I do have one for you guys.

If I would polish and leave it in the white, do you guys think Flitz could hold up?

As the blueing has been removed, and in the white rust is real problem. 

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lbruce
Georgia
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February 7, 2010 - 7:53 am
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Embarassed I did not realise it was in the white, I thought it was stainless. I should have looked closer.

LB

Wisdom is merely the realization of how little one knows, therefore I am wise.

                                                                                                                             

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Steve
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February 7, 2010 - 8:52 am
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I would not nickel a gun that I was going to shoot a lot. Np3 is pretty durable, and if you wanted a two-tone look you could:

Re-blue frame, shroud, crane

Np3 barrel, cylinder, cylinder latch, trigger, hammer

I think the look of Np3 showing through the slots, backed by the cylinder and 3 other pieces contrasting with a brand new shiny blueing would look HOT

I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.

George Carlin

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maximumload
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February 7, 2010 - 5:27 pm
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The two tone has a nice pop to the eyes, I like you idea too. As I look for a real one off look for this gun. The reason tried this as one of my first, is back in the early nineties I tried to buy a 40. As none could be found new anywhere. I called information and got there number and called Dan Wesson. I tried 3 times over a year to get one from them, here is what I remember.

The first call I was told there were running the 445's at present and to try back in a few months. The second attempt was the same as the first. But the third call was a long and hopeful. I was transferred and talked to a man who ran around and tried to build me one from parts. He came up shy on a few so he gave up. And told me it was not going to be very nice to look at because the frame and shroud were stainless and cylinder and latch were blue. He took my name and number and if he could find the internals he would put it together and call. He never did. But if he did call it sure would have been a real collector for sure. And a price quote if I remember right $685 or $885 seems to come to mind.

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IHMSA80x80
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February 9, 2010 - 8:00 pm
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The Savantist

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maximumload
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February 10, 2010 - 4:12 pm
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I stand corrected on the pink. I have pondered that same idea for a mauser, What caliber is she?

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