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June 3, 2021
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Folks,
I have done some searching and found a ton of information but I haven't found a specific answer to my questions, so here goes a new thread. I've got a Model 9 38 special, pretty early pork chop gun. I ordered new springs from Wolff and traded out the mainspring no problem, but the new trigger return spring didn't work. It has a different shape on the leg that sits on the trigger from the stock spring, and it just slips off and won't stay put. Not a big deal, I just put the stock trigger return spring back in there and the gun works fine.
However, I would like to know a couple of things. What's the life expectancy on a DW TRS? I am pretty sure that my stock spring had virtually no cycles on it when I got it, so it more or less new old stock when I got it, but I've already put a few thousand dry fires on it and plan to keep working with the gun. And second, where can I find replacements for the old-style TRS?
One other question: Youtube says to use your grip screw to grab the mainspring to help you take the gun down. My grip screw does not grab my mainspring. Is that a feature of newer guns than mine? It was kind of a major PITA to take the gun down and put it back together because of that pressure on the mainspring that I couldn't relieve.
Thank you!
October 17, 2017
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It’s not the grip screw, but rather the longer side plate screw that threads up into where the (removed) grip screw was. Have the hammer at full cock and thread the side plate screw until it stops. The tension is now off the main spring.
June 3, 2021
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3ric said
It’s not the grip screw, but rather the longer side plate screw that threads up into where the (removed) grip screw was. Have the hammer at full cock and thread the side plate screw until it stops. The tension is now off the main spring.
Thanks! Sorry...it's been several weeks since I did the work on the gun and I think i just misremembered which screw(s) I tried. Now that you say this, I am pretty sure I used the longer side plate screw....at the time, I was following the video where it showed it.
Edit: got to wondering about my recollection, so I went and checked again. I tried using the long side plate screw and it doesn't engage at all. It's like the bit that it's supposed to thread into isn't threaded, or else is too small for the screw. I tried finding an alternative machine screw around the place to see if I could get a substitute to work, but nothing doing.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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It is a great mystery how the sideplate screw captures the mainspring. I believe when the hammer is clocked and the mainspring is compressed the coils of the spring match the threads on the screw and hold the spring. If the mainspring seat is screwed in too far it may affect the coils of the spring so the screw won't engage. Se if the mainspring seat is loose. It should have been peened into position. If that did not hold it could screw in too tight when the grip screw is screwed all the way. Your other problem is the Wolff TRS falling off the trigger. The Wolff TRS, in my opinion is the single best thing you can do to help the trigger pull. It is much smoother and without the scratchy feeling in the Dan trigger. The problem is related to the "early porkchop". Models 11 and 12 and 14 and 15 (8+9)have the very short hammer throw. The short hammer throw was causing light strikes. Around serial number 25,000 the trigger was changed to lengthen the hammer fall and make it easier to keep the TRS on the trigger. A little ledge was created on the left side of the trigger for the end of the TRS to rest on. That 1/16" difference is what lengthens the hammer throw. Before that change the end of the spring rested between the hammer and the sideplate. You had to hold your upper lip just right while you put the sideplate on to keep from knocking it off. If you bend the tip of the spring in to the right just a little it helps keep it on the trigger instead of besides it. The change happened when the 14-1 and 15-1(unofficial) debuted. The 9 and 15 have the tall rear sight and front sight. The 9-1and 15-1 have the lower High Standard style rear sight and lower front sight. Try putting in the Wolff spring again. If you still want a old style factory TRS, PM me your name and mailing address. I have plenty. I have never heard of one wearing out but all things are possible.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Just a small correction to what Ole Dog said - There is a mainspring guide that goes into the mainspring and between the mainspring and the hammer. The bottom of the guide is threaded to fit the long side plate screw. When the hammer is pulled back far enough, the screw will reach through the hole in the mainspring seat and thread into the guide.
June 3, 2021
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Ole Dog said
Your other problem is the Wolff TRS falling off the trigger. The Wolff TRS, in my opinion is the single best thing you can do to help the trigger pull. It is much smoother and without the scratchy feeling in the Dan trigger. The problem is related to the "early porkchop". Models 11 and 12 and 14 and 15 (8+9)have the very short hammer throw. The short hammer throw was causing light strikes. Around serial number 25,000 the trigger was changed to lengthen the hammer fall and make it easier to keep the TRS on the trigger. A little ledge was created on the left side of the trigger for the end of the TRS to rest on. That 1/16" difference is what lengthens the hammer throw. Before that change the end of the spring rested between the hammer and the sideplate. You had to hold your upper lip just right while you put the sideplate on to keep from knocking it off. If you bend the tip of the spring in to the right just a little it helps keep it on the trigger instead of besides it. The change happened when the 14-1 and 15-1(unofficial) debuted. The 9 and 15 have the tall rear sight and front sight. The 9-1and 15-1 have the lower High Standard style rear sight and lower front sight. Try putting in the Wolff spring again. If you still want a old style factory TRS, PM me your name and mailing address. I have plenty. I have never heard of one wearing out but all things are possible.
My revolver has the ledge. The stock spring sits on it nicely, but the Wolff spring is bent differently at the tip and slides off. I did not attempt to alter the spring, but now that you mention it, it seems like a good idea and nothing to lose anyway. I can't use the spring as it is, so even if I break it, it's no loss. My SN is lower than 25000. I think it's 21000 or something. I'll let you know what it is when I get a chance to look at it later, since it seems like you're one of the most knowledegable resident historians here and this might be a useful data point for you.
Thanks very much for the offer of the spring. If my operation on the Wolff spring doesn't work out, I'll get in touch!
June 3, 2021
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snake-eye said
Just a small correction to what Ole Dog said - There is a mainspring guide that goes into the mainspring and between the mainspring and the hammer. The bottom of the guide is threaded to fit the long side plate screw. When the hammer is pulled back far enough, the screw will reach through the hole in the mainspring seat and thread into the guide.
I just don't seem to have a threaded guide. It's weird. I'm doing this with the hammer cocked and I can feel the screw up against the guide, but it doesn't catch any threads. I did look at it when I had it all taken down, but didn't take pictures or investigate carefully enough, obviously. I'd take it apart again to have a better look, but my son who helped me last time is back at college and there's no way I can do it without that extra pair of hands.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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moylan said
snake-eye said
Just a small correction to what Ole Dog said - There is a mainspring guide that goes into the mainspring and between the mainspring and the hammer. The bottom of the guide is threaded to fit the long side plate screw. When the hammer is pulled back far enough, the screw will reach through the hole in the mainspring seat and thread into the guide.
I just don't seem to have a threaded guide. It's weird. I'm doing this with the hammer cocked and I can feel the screw up against the guide, but it doesn't catch any threads. I did look at it when I had it all taken down, but didn't take pictures or investigate carefully enough, obviously. I'd take it apart again to have a better look, but my son who helped me last time is back at college and there's no way I can do it without that extra pair of hands.
I have had this problem when the mainspring seat is backed out too far so that the screw will not reach the guide. First, try holding the hammer back against the frame while you thread the screw into the guide. There is usually a small distance from the back of the hammer to the frame when cocked. This can be just enough to get the screw to thread. If that does not work, you can look for a longer screw at your hardware store (if you can't find one, I can send you mine)
February 16, 2016
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Ole Dog said
It is a great mystery how the sideplate screw captures the mainspring.
I've been thinking about this and I don't believe it would be too difficult to fabricate a Plexiglas or acrylic sideplate, in order to observe the workings of the internal parts.
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