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October 21, 2013
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Hello gentlemen, Last time I had my 744 at the range the cyclinder locked up fairly tight as I pulled double action. After getting the cyclinder free and inspecting the forcing cone I found I nice chunck of brass on the right hand side. Now when I set the barrel with a .006 feeler gauge that side was tighter than the other. The shroud was also extreamly hard to get off and back on. So I'm thinking the barrel might be bent. So I showed it to the guys at the local range and their smith says he beleaves that the swing arm is bent. Now Im not sure about that but the ejecctor rod is deffinately bent, and the cyclinder will rub the frame if you spin it with the barrel up in the air. The question is who in the world would I send this to? Will CZ/DW service this wepon?
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June 25, 2013
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Why right here are some phone numbers where your questions can be answered...
https://www.danwessonforum.com/faqs/where-can-i-order-parts/
Endeavor to persevere,
Press on regardless.
Need little, want less, love more.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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A piece of brass stuck to the forcing cone? Can you unscrew the barrel? You can try copper solvent to clean it off( after unscrewing it. Or a new barrel from EWK. Is the barrel ported, six small holes in the muzzle end. That would explain the sticking shroud. Use a lead removal product on the inside of the shroud and the outside of the barrel. A 12gauge brush works on the shroud. I would not use the ported barrel but if you do, use jacketed bullets and clean good after each range trip. The crane or ejector being bent is not so easy. Never flip a cylinder closed like you see in TV or movies. That is how the crane gets twisted . Gently close the cylinder. This goes for all revolvers. If you remove the ejector rod and role it on a flat surface( think pool que) you can tell if it is bent. If the cylinder rubs it is probably the crane.
March 21, 2014
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A good Revolver smith can align your yoke, the part of the crane the cylinder rides on, without a problem. it is a very common thing for revolvers, after time and use, for them to bend one direction or another and it is a very simple though nerve wracking operation to align it. I would get a lewis de-leading kit from brownells for the lead, they work wonders and use a non-marring scraper to remove the brass chunk from the forcing cone and then inspect it very, very well for any cracks or chunks missing. if the forcing cone is not cracked or missing any metal then you should be just fine with the barrel. the shroud issue could possibly be a bulged barrel...that may have happened from your brass chunk depending how it got there. and the cylinder rubbing on the barrel could more than likely be yoke mis-alignment. however, take it to a gunsmith you trust or someone you trust trusts that is competent with revolvers and have him look at it.
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