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September 8, 2014
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Hi, I have a weakness for .357 revolvers, and acquired this one yesterday. I think I'm already in trouble with my husband...oops! It's blued, a little worn, but not bad, Pachmyr grips, came with an old Simmons scope mounted on it that we can't get adjusted right...yet. Took off the scope and mount and shot without. I like this old gun a lot. The main problem, and the one that has my husband thinking I messed up, is that the cylinder does not latch tight. I see that this is probably fixable, and may even just need cleaned well. Is that a common thing with DW? I can get it to latch, but if we push on the cylinder a little forcefully, it will swing back open. It will stay if pushed lightly, once it is locked. Is the revolver safe to shoot when it is like this? Another thing I noticed...I usually shoot my DA revolvers in single action, and a few times when I pulled the hammer back, it was pretty hard, and it seemed to happen when firing .38, I didn't notice it with .357. I was shooting reloads. Again, maybe just dirty or maybe the ammo.
Neither of us has had a revolver apart before, we have done some minor stuff with our guns. I would not be extremely afraid to try, with good directions and the right tools...admittedly, a bit nervous! I looked around and see some good tutorials on here. Where would be the easiest place to start?
Thanks!
February 21, 2011
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I had a similar problem a while back. In my case the fix was a tiny burr at the join between the locking latch's tongue & the recess where it locks into the frame.
A thorough clean & carefully removing the burred edge with a stone fixed the problem.
Matthew Quigley on handguns:
“I said I never had much use for one. Never said
I didn't know how to use it.”
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Definitely clean good first. Look for crud in the slot on the frame where the latch hooks in. Could be crud in the slots that the latch slides in on the crane. Could be bad or weak latch spring. I had a similar problem with a used DW I bought. Turned out that the top of the latch where it goes into the slot in the frame was worn on the outer edge, or a prior owner had filed it to make it easier to open. It would latch, but if you pushed hard on the cylinder you could open it. I bought another (used) latch on ebay and it was fixed.
For the hard hammer pull in Single Action, the first thing to check is always the grip screw. There are 2 sizes, long & short, that vary with the type of grip used. Try backing the screw out a couple turns, or even all the way, and see if the hammer is easier to pull back. If the wrong screw is used it will go in too far and interfere with the hammer spring assembly. If that's the problem, use small washers on the screw so it doesn't go in as far. It only needs to go in a few turns and be snug with the grip so the grip does not move in your hand.
If that is not the solution, definitely go for a thorough internal cleaning. Check the "Average Joe Method" post in the Reloading, Gunsmithing Forum here. have no fear, it's really easy. I never had a gun apart before I did it the first time. The trickiest part for me was getting the side plate to come off after removing the 2 screws. It can be tight due to close tolerances from the factory or from build up of crud. Just hold the frame with side plate down and tap up on the grip mounting stud with a rubber hammer. It will probably just fall off in your hand. Do Not pry it off. You will scratch or ding the frame or the side plate. You can use a wood dowel to help push the side plate off, but no prying with any metal tools.
Good luck! Let us know how it goes and post some pics.
February 20, 2008
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Nice to have a lady shooter here-welcome!
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If you're going to drink, don't drive. Don't even putt.
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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Just to add to snake-eye's advise, Dans are made to be user friendly. You did not mention a barrel tool so I am going to assume you did not recieve one. I would not use your gun until you use the tool to remove the barrel, clean and oil the barrel threads and reinstall with the proper barrel / cylinder gap. Factory specs are .006 but most of us do .003 or .004. The gap should be set by sliding the feeler gauge( from auto store? ) into the gap without forcing the cylinder to the rear. As with the grip screw, the barrel nut should be reinstalled snug but not tight. Never overly tighten the nut, grip screw or side plate screws, or anything else on a dan. The gape should be checked on every chamber and set to the proudest chamber (the one with the smallest gap). If you use a smaller gap than spec you may need to wipe the front of the cylinder or reset the gap with extended shooting. The barrel tool you have or get may have the allen wrenches attached. If not, get a set at a hardware store. EWK makes a fine wrench but with no allen wrenches. I prefer the dan wesson metal one. Avoid the early stamped metal one or the plastic ones. When opening the cylinder hold the gun in your left hand and work the latch with your left thumb. The muzzle will be pointing left. Slid your next two fingers in the frame to push the cylinder out AND KEEP THEM THERE. Hold the gun cocked to the left so cylinder will not swing shut. If the cylinder swings closed while you are ejecting cases you will leave scratches on the sideplate and dings on the recoil shield. I have seen the scratches attributed to speed loaders, tooling marks ,etc. Almost all 15-2's have them. Don't make it worse. I suspect you have a VH 8"ba. You will be wanting other lengths. The tutorial makes it easy to open and clean your gun and you really should. If you cannot get the latch right there is a lot here about the problem or ask us.Welcome to the forum.
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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'Check the “Average Joe Method” post in the Reloading, Gunsmithing Forum here. have no fear, it’s really easy.'
I have to go along with these other guys. Clean and readjust first.. The DW small frame was built to be simplistic..
You will fall in love
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"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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First rule of thumb; read this and execute! 90% of all problems are cleaning related or over tightening something... The best thing about the Average Joe Tuneup is that you learn how the Dans work.
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
Dans Club
March 2, 2008
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Welcome to DWF, in several previous posts you have gotten great advice.
Regarding your cylinder latch problem, two comments:
1) The slot on the frame that the latch locks in to is pretty small, a very thorough cleaning of that area, including the use of a small scribe or dental pick is important
2) The latch and latch spring on the crane should be removed, cleaned thoroughly, lubed, and reinstalled.
This is an often overlooked problem and not really covered by the Average Joe Tuneup. There will be a very small screw on the front of the crane that you can remove with an "eyeglass" screwdriver. This will release the latch and a "U" shaped spring. There can be an AMAZING amount of crud in this area that will interfere with proper latch function.
I went to a bookstore and asked the saleswoman "Were is the Self Help Section?" She said if she told me, it would defeat the purpose.
George Carlin
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Just to add to what Steve wrote - I have had 2 other type of latch retaining methods: most common is an allen or hex-head screw (half threaded and half unthreaded shaft) some early models also used a split pin like used on the rear site.
The allen screw type uses the same size allen wrench as the front site set screw.
September 8, 2014
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Thanks for the welcome and all the good advice! I'm sure I'll have more questions as I go. I intend to sit down and get familiar with the DW, I'm glad to hear that they are well-built and user-friendly, that's exactly what I want! I have another 357 revolver, a Ruger GP100 6". My EDC is a S&W 38. 357 is probably my favorite caliber, I have a Henry lever action rifle in 357 as well. I work long hours thru the week, but I will try to get some pics up soon. I'm glad I found this site. Also, I do not have a barrel tool, so I will have to look into that. We have plenty of other tools and gun cleaning supplies.
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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CYN357, If you'll cast your eyes to the right you can see EWKarms. You can get a barrel wrench from him quite soon or you can find them on ebay quite often and sometimes at quite more expense. Eric will also have the feeler gauge or you can by them in auto parts or hardware stores.. Welcome again, we don't get many ladies stopping by but we're certainly glad to have you counted with us and I'm sure you'll be pleased with the info and camaraderie..
Cecil
Oath Keeper #021479 NRA #206814004
Member AAGSR Member AGA #83120600233
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
Richard Henry Lee
American Statesman, 1788
September 8, 2014
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As promised, a pic. I removed the latch and spring and cleaned, reinstalled. It was one of the hex screws, so I am glad that was mentioned! It is better, but if I try really hard, I can make it open. I'm not sure that is a big problem, it doesn't seem like it will open when the hammer is back. Should it lock with a really solid click? I just hear and feel a faint click. I think I feel more confident now about possibly taking it apart and cleaning it. Thanks so much everyone!
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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It wont be a really loud click. It also, should not open. As mentioned previously, you may need to check it for a burr. Most usually on the latch itself if that is an issue. Could possibly be in the latch hole on the frame. I would use a small pick and run it around the inside edge. If you cant feel or see one on the latch, try putting on a neoprene glove and rubbing around the catch. Does it close easily? or do you have to push it closed with any real force? It should close and latch quite easily.
Oath Keeper #021479 NRA #206814004
Member AAGSR Member AGA #83120600233
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
Richard Henry Lee
American Statesman, 1788
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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The click will not be loud.
Since it does latch and only comes open with significant pressure, I 'd say you are almost there. Check real good for burrs as mentioned by others and look real close (magnifying glass?) at the latch & slot it fits in as you work it open & closed. It sounds like the latch is just not sliding far enough up into it's slot to hold when you push against the cylinder. There has to be a reason why not. It's likely simple, but not obvious.
Dans Club
December 5, 2008
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Nice looking Dan by the way!
The gripper grips are a nice plus. They are much desired and not common.
Congrats!
You might like to check out the fiber optic front sights from EWK and you can also get a fiber optic rear sight. Williams makes one, called a firesight, for the Ruger GP100 that is a perfect fit for your 15-2.
Have fun.
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July 2, 2011
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That's a beauty. I'd offer some advice, but my limited fund of knowledge has been exhausted by everyone else!
I'll just leave it at, welcome to the forum
To the paranoid people who check behind shower curtains for murderers:
if you find one...what's your plan?
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Dans Club
March 25, 2013
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That is a very nice dan. The 8"VH shroud has recently been selling at a large premium over the other regular sizes. One just sold on ebay for iver $400.00 .Remember to not let the cylinder start to close while ejecting cartridges. I repeat this advise for the benefit af the many new dan fans on the forum. The scratches on most Dans are from the rachet scraping the sideplate. EWK also sells a small parts kit that might be good to install. It is inexpensive as are the Wolff springs. If you put in the Wolff springs use the 8lb. not the 71/2 lb. or you could have light strikes.
September 8, 2014
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Ole Dog said
That is a very nice dan. The 8"VH shroud has recently been selling at a large premium over the other regular sizes. One just sold on ebay for iver $400.00 .Remember to not let the cylinder start to close while ejecting cartridges. I repeat this advise for the benefit af the many new dan fans on the forum. The scratches on most Dans are from the rachet scraping the sideplate. EWK also sells a small parts kit that might be good to install. It is inexpensive as are the Wolff springs. If you put in the Wolff springs use the 8lb. not the 71/2 lb. or you could have light strikes.
Thanks! This poor ol' Dan already has it's share of scratches, but that's ok... maybe i'll buy him a purty stainless brother sometime. 
This is the first DW revolver I've ever actually handled, we don't see them hardly ever around my area, or if we did, we didn't know what we were looking at! We were aware of the 1911s, but don't see many of those, either. I want to be sure I understand the latch. When I close the cylinder, it isn't supposed to automatically latch is it? I have to push the latch up to make it latch. I am thinking about trying a different spring anyway, but definitely will if this isn't right. I still plan to clean the whole gun when I get time.
Dans Club
April 18, 2014
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yes, it should latch when you close it. It shouldn't take any real force to close. You should not have to move the latch to close the cylinder.
Oath Keeper #021479 NRA #206814004
Member AAGSR Member AGA #83120600233
"To preserve liberty, it is essential that the whole body of the people always possess arms and be taught alike, especially when young, how to use them."
Richard Henry Lee
American Statesman, 1788
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