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December 25, 2018
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Hello all! I’m new to Dan Wesson I just bought a 15-2 357 with a 8” barrel. Gun is 95% perfect box paperwork and tool. Problems are the cylinder will not always advance in single action it will always advance in double action tho... seems to always have problems on the 5th and 6th cock... 1-4 always advance the cylinder. So I went to shoot it and out of 10 rounds it light primer striked twice... and finally the spent brass did not want to come out of it!! It looks like it bulged near the bottom of the cartridge. Any help out there is greatly appreciated!! I was super excited about this revolver it’s my Christmas present. Guy I bought it from said “oh well it’s yours now” stand up guy... paid $550 for it hopefully I did ok on it...
December 25, 2018
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August 8, 2016
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Sounds like a timing issue?
Maybe Bob (the lead revolver smith at DW) could help out? His email is bob@cz-usa.com
December 5, 2010
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When I first acquired my DW, the cylinder would not advance, and I didn’t know why until I went online and found out about barrel clearance. Maintaining correct barrel clearance is essential for the gun to operate properly. If there is too much clearance there may be lead or copper jacket material spitting to each side as the gun is fired. This lead/copper can get caught between the front of the cylinder and the frame and cause the cylinder to jam. If the clearance is too small, the front of the cylinder may interfere with the back end of the barrel as the gun heats up and this will cause the gun to jam.
At first it was intimidating to adjust barrel clearance but after doing it a few times there’s nothing to it. Think of it as routine maintenance like adjusting intake/exhaust valve clearance on a car with solid lifters - only this is easier. I have gotten into the habit of checking/adjusting the barrel clearance every time I get back from the range. It only takes a minute to check the clearance by inserting the factory supplied feeler gage between the front of the cylinder and the barrel. Check the clearance at each cylinder. The gage should move free and easy with no resistance. Adjust the clearance and then snug up the barrel nut but don't over-tighten and recheck the clearance. When I get back from the range, I first check the clearance and adjust if needed. Then I clean the gun, wipe it down and it’s ready for the next trip to the range.
As for fail-to-fire misfires, I had the same problem but a number of issues could cause this. Worn springs, worn internal parts, grip screw too tight, etc. Local gunsmiths were of no help so I ended up sending mine back to the factory where they replaced the bolt, the hand, spring kit, set the over travel screw and added a “head space shim” in front of the cylinder. That fixed the problem. Also, people who do their own reloading tell me that some brands of primers are “hard” compared to other primers and that may cause fail-to-fire. I have had good luck with American Eagle and Remington UMC ammo.
This forum is a great resource. There are lots of how to posts on this site that give detailed instructions for adjusting barrel clearance for your model.
January 2, 2019
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MJK said
Local gunsmiths were of no help so I ended up sending mine back to the factory where they replaced the bolt, the hand, spring kit, set the over travel screw and added a “head space shim” in front of the cylinder. That fixed the problem.
MJK may I ask what the factory charged you for the service? I might need to send mine in too and just was curious of the damage? Thank you
December 5, 2010
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drmatara said
MJK may I ask what the factory charged you for the service? I might need to send mine in too and just was curious of the damage? Thank you
According to the invoice:
Head space shim $11.00; Hand $25.95; Spring kit $29.00; Bolt $29.95; Labor $105.00. Total $200.90.
Head space shim is not a part I saw on the parts list in my owner's manual, BTW. It's basically a thin metal washer they put on the spindle in front of the cylinder and I think the purpose of it is to move the cylinder back toward the firing pin a few thousandths. Or maybe the shim was missing when I sent it to them and they just replaced it. Gun has been 100 percent trouble free.
The factory ppl were great to deal with. I sent it to them with a letter explaining the issue. They called me with an estimate, I said OK and they sent it back a couple weeks later via Fedex. (You will have to pick it up at a Fedex store and sign for it.)
January 2, 2019
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MJK said
drmatara said
MJK may I ask what the factory charged you for the service? I might need to send mine in too and just was curious of the damage? Thank you
According to the invoice:
Head space shim $11.00; Hand $25.95; Spring kit $29.00; Bolt $29.95; Labor $105.00. Total $200.90.
Head space shim is not a part I saw on the parts list in my owner's manual, BTW. It's basically a thin metal washer they put on the spindle in front of the cylinder and I think the purpose of it is to move the cylinder back toward the firing pin a few thousandths. Or maybe the shim was missing when I sent it to them and they just replaced it. Gun has been 100 percent trouble free.
The factory ppl were great to deal with. I sent it to them with a letter explaining the issue. They called me with an estimate, I said OK and they sent it back a couple weeks later via Fedex. (You will have to pick it up at a Fedex store and sign for it.)
Thanks for replying...wow that's not that bad at all especially the labor...did you have to pay for shipping or was all included?
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