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January 16, 2021
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Hi there! New to the forum. I bought a used, blue 15-2 about 25 years ago with a 6” and a 2” barrel, full under lug, vent rib. I have shot the gun sporadically through the years, often as a training tool for young shooters and women with .38 spcl loads.
I have been getting light strikes, so I ordered a spring set from CZ and replaced the main spring. While inside, I polished the internals to smooth out the action and cylinder some. I have a few questions I hope someone can answer.
The new main spring gives me a DA trigger pull of 11#. While smooth, that seems overly heavy. The old spring was about 8#, but of course was delivering 1-2 light strikes per cylinder. What is a good pull weight for reliable ignition, with all primers, if I were to shorten the new spring by a coil at a time?
In trying to eject empty cases, I’ve often had a cartridge rim hang up on the cylinder tab on the lower part of the side plate. This jams the whole extraction effort until the cylinder is turned. That same tab (I don’t know the proper nomenclature) also interferes with loading, especially from speed loaders. The tab protrudes much too high. I plan to carefully file it down so I can extract empties with the cylinder in any rotational position, and load without stoppages. Am I wrong in wanting to get that tab lower so cartridges can get in/out when a charge hole is lined up with it?
Finally, I have noticed my trigger return has four distinct clicks and a couple of spring “sproung” sounds when I reset it slowly. It functions fine, and at speed it just feels rough. With the side plate removed I can see the mechanical parts and springs resetting, so I assume all is normal. This just seems strange as the other revolvers I have do not have this “feature”. They have smooth resets that are not so dramatic. Anything to do other than dial back my criticism? It’s all polished already, and the springs are new.
Thanks in advance. CB3
DWF Supporters
July 12, 2020
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Welcome to the forum from PA! Someone from here with more revolver knowledge than I will surely answer all your questions.
October 17, 2017
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There’s a lot to unwrap here, CB3. First; keep the 11pound mainspring and be happy. Any clipping of coils with leave you with occasional light strikes again. The cylinder stop on the 15-2 is a separate piece that fits snugly in a cutout in the side plate. It seems like yours is creeping out and could easily be lost at any time. You can use red locktite on it and tap it back in until it’s flush with the inside of the side plate. Also, make sure the trigger return spring is up on that little ledge on the trigger before you reinstall the side plate. Hope this helps.
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Dans Club
February 22, 2009
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Wolff makes reduced power springs for the DW small frame revolvers. WRT the cylinder stop- a picture may be in order. If it's flush, then it's just re-loading technique.
Ron
Technically, the glass is always full; half liquid, half air....
January 16, 2021
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Thanks for the welcome.
And the spot-on advice. The cylinder stop was definitely creeping up out of the side plate. I thought it was machined as part of the side plate. I did not understand it is a separate, pressed in piece. All is well now.
The gun has Pachmayr rubber grips. I'm beginning to suspect that at some time in the past, in switching between the stock wood grip to the rubber, I could have over-tightened the grip screw--perhaps causing the light strikes with a compressed main spring? The old main spring is identical to the new one except about 3/8" shorter. It even has the same number of coils. It may have sat a little over-compressed for years. I just put it back in the gun and the trigger pull is right at 11#, just like the new one. I must have been mistaken about the older spring having a much lighter pull. I've left the old one in and will try it again for reliability, with the grip screw tightened properly. Of course I have the new one if needed.
The switch out/in took about five minutes. I'm really getting to know this gun, and that's always fun. BTW, the secret to compressing the main spring to the long side plate screw is to use the tip of a short cleaning rod on top of the main spring guide. You all may already know that, but I did not see it explained in You Tube videos I watched.
It's great to come to a forum and tap the experience and knowledge of others. Thank you all. CB3
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